hot starting issues.
It fires just fine when cold, you would not know there was a problem.
When hot, the starter cranks no problem, but the engine does not want to fire up. It cranks over a few times (more then usual) and when it sounds like it is going to fire I let go of the key (You know when it is ready to fire), and it makes a sound similar to when a car desiels when you shut it off, but really quick like 1 seconds worth.
It seems like I let go of the key a hair too early. But I have tried holding the key longer with no luck.
So I crank it over again, and it cranks a few more times, then it fires up, but it chuggs when it fires. like it started at 10 rpms, and moves up to 200 rpms. then it clears out about 5 seconds after that, and idles fine at 850.
When I cold start, it roars to life at 1500 rpm or so.
this has happened about 4 times now and I am thinking it is going to be an issue.
Any ideas?
When hot, the starter cranks no problem, but the engine does not want to fire up. It cranks over a few times (more then usual) and when it sounds like it is going to fire I let go of the key (You know when it is ready to fire), and it makes a sound similar to when a car desiels when you shut it off, but really quick like 1 seconds worth.
It seems like I let go of the key a hair too early. But I have tried holding the key longer with no luck.
So I crank it over again, and it cranks a few more times, then it fires up, but it chuggs when it fires. like it started at 10 rpms, and moves up to 200 rpms. then it clears out about 5 seconds after that, and idles fine at 850.
It certainly sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Maybe either a leaky injector, bad fuel pressure regulator, or even a bad fuel pump relay. Best advice I can give: start your diagnosis with the simple stuff first. And don't rule out the possibility of a rogue ignition problem either - anything from a bad coil to degraded plug wires.
Try these simple tests for your fuel system: Before you start your car, visually inspect your injector fuses (there's 2 - one 10amp the other 20amp). If they are fine, replace and start your car. Run the car until warm, then shut it off. When you restart, turn the key to the 'ON' position but don't crank the engine over. Listen to hear if the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system - if it does, then chances are your fuel pump relays are fine. If not, then you may have found your problem. Assuming your pump turns on and primes the fuel system, push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it for about 10 seconds. Release the accelerator, turn the key over and start the car as you normally would. If the car starts fine, there's a good chance it's a leaky injector (you'll have to do a couple more tests just to verify). If the car exhibits the same starting problem, then its more than likely not a leaky injector and you'll have to continue the diagnosis.
If you don't have a fuel pressure test gauge, then it's a good time to invest in one. I just bought mine last weekend, and it has already proven it's worth; a fuel pressure test is easy to do, and can reveal ALOT about what's going on with your fuel system when you turn the key and start your car.
I hope that at least gives you a start.
Good luck and keep us all posted.
[Modified by TheCorvetteKid, 9:34 PM 6/7/2003]
I have an in car fuel pressure gauge, and I see it has pressure when I crank it, but I will have to watch what it does going through the steps in the manual durring the week.
I put these injectors in there 20K miles ago as well as the accel pressure regulator, I hope they are not failing already, I pu tthe top end back on about a month ago, it would be no fun to take it all apart so soon.















