I discovered that the A/C compressor blew a seal and the bearings are shot so it needs to be replaced (it's 15+ years old anyway, I figure it's due). It seems like it's time to convert to something besides R-12. I found a thread from last year on using Freeze-12, rather than R-134a. In talking with a couple of local shops (I just don't have the equipment or time to do this myself right now), they all seem apprehensive about using anything other than straight R-12 or R-134a.

Any experiences with working with a shop that will use an alternative refigerant? Should I just keep calling around or just give in and go with the straight R-134a? (it's not THAT critical that it cool to 38 degrees rather than 45, here in the northwest -- although we DID just have a couple of record-setting hot days! ;-)

Thanks for any help...

 

TtT :lurk:

 

Most A/C shops deal only in R12 and 134a. They have to have a completly seperate systems for each type of refregrent they service. Most don't want to invest in the "fring" coolents. Even if you find a local shop to make the conversion, if you should have problem while out of town it would be almost imposable to find a shop that has the required equipment to work on an off brand coolent.

Stay with R12, it cools better then 134a. Yes it does cost quite a bit more due to the excessive taxes on it. But if the system is right you should be good to go for another 15 years.

tom...

 

I converted my 92 to 134, and living here in south Florida it gets real hot most of the year. My system will freeze me out if I turn in down.

 

So, what does it take to make the conversion? I have to do something with my AC this summer, so it will either be bend over for the cost of R12 or make a change and go with cheaper r134a...

 

Ditto for my '92! I converted mine two summer's ago and mine gets cold enough to freeze me out, too. No way can I stand to cycle it all the way down to 65 degrees without getting real chilly. Regarding the conversion, if memory serves they'll have to swap out the pressure switch and the drier/accumulator (along with a couple of other hose fittings). I think I paid around $160.00 for the kit and R-134a.

If for some reason the charge isn't cold enough for you, buy a can of "Maxi-Cool" available at most auto parts stores. It's designed to enhance the performance of R-134a systems. FWIW, I live in Louisville, KY and the summer humidity aint' no joke!

 

Check out this page: http://www.delanet.com/~pparish/retrofit.htm for some good info on retrofit.

tom...

 

Good to hear that some people are satisfied with the cooling of R-134a.

And thanks, Tom, for the link and info.

BTW, last year, when on a long road trip, I would find that after an hour, or so, the auto climate control system wasn't keeping the car at the right temp. After several little experiments, I discovered that the only way I could get it to work right again (while on the road) was to turn off the A/C for a while. Anyone had this problem and how did you fix it? I figure if I'm working on the A/C system, I want to correct this problem while I'm at it. I hope that it is the compressor and by replacing that, I fix both problems at once.

Thanks, again, for all the help... all you guys are :cool:

 

In 1998 I converted my 1986 Z28 to R-134 with a all- in- one kit I bought from Kmart for $35. It work fine, and I lived in Hotterthanhell Texas at the time. It worked great for 3 summers (had to add a can each summer) until I removed the ac to install headers and never put the ac back on.

 

If the a/c blows hot after awhile, the evaporator maybe icing over restricting air flow. A faulty low pressure switch can be the culprit.

 

So, it seems like it might be a good idea to replace the low pressure switch while I'm at it... if it's not too expensive.

BTW, I've been thinking more about doing some of the work to fix this A/C problem if it will save some big bucks. I was thinking of getting a new compressor myself and putting that in the car, then taking it to a shop to have a new dryer put in and have the system charged up. Does this make sense? Or, would I just damage the new compressor by intalling it and driving it some without the whole system being repaired at once??? (I was thinking that there would be no pressure in the system, so the low-pressure switch would prevent the compressor from operating anyway... is that right?)

Thanks, again, for all the great help!

 

The 134 works fine I converted while living in kansas city 110-115 with 95% humidity was running vent temps of 35-40 during mid day. I do recommend the auto adjusting orfice tube it makes a giant differance when sitting still in traffic. As far as damage after install just leave the clutch unplugged, however you need to put oil in the compressor and rotate by hand before mounting and it needs to be the right type and amount. I am living in the north west now also I was moving into my new house those hot days last week. If you need any help I have all the needed equipment if you feel up to a road trip to Corvallis.

 

There is nothing wrong with installing all of the parts and then having an a/c shop charge it. If the compressor has been leaking for a while, you may have some junk in it. Usually, most is trapped in the orifice. Disconnect the high pressure line at the bottom of the evaporator & remove it. If you see metal shavings, either clean it or replace it. You can replace the Accumulator too. Sometime though, galvanic corrosion has worked it's magic on the connector from the outlet side to the compressor. If so, you can pretty much forget getting it disconnected and the hose assembly will have to be replaced. Replace all o-rings on anything you disconnect. Most replacement o-rings are compatible with either R12 or R134. A new accumulator and orifice should include the o-rings. Lubricate o-rings with compressor oil compatible with the charge you are going to use or use a product call nylog (which will prevent galvanic corrosion). Some GM replacement Accumulators have two schraders. If you get one of these, you may have to cutdown the bracket to keep the Accumulator from striking the hood. Replacement compressors should come with oil in them. Drain it, fill (4 ozs) with oil compatible with the charge you're going to use. Turn the shaft ten times in one direction and then ten in the other. Repeat and finally fill with 4 ozs. of fresh oil. Put 4 ozs. in the new Accumulator. Clutch face plate needs an air gap of .020 between itself and the pulley. This is set with shims. GM replacement clutches do not include them, so be sure to buy the shim kit (about 9 bucks for a half dozen washers!) Visit an a/c shop for evacuation & recharge.