wheeljo2

OK I decided tonight was as good as any to remove my front monoleaf spring in an effort to lower the front end. I do not have a lowering kit which includes some type of urethane wedge that goes in place of the rubber bushings on top of the spring. Therefore, how should I go about modifying it. I was thinking about cutting the end bushings in half and taking an inch or so off the top bushings. I think I'll also need to cut an inch off of the aluminum brackets that bolt the spring to the cross member. I'm looking for an 1" or 2" drop. Any ideas?

Thanks,
JWheel
:steering:


[Modified by wheeljo2, 2:46 AM 6/13/2003]

AGENT 86

I did mine witout buying any kit. On my 86 the upper spring rubber was not solid so i cut it open removed the guts. I was left with about 1\8 rubber so i glued a piece of 1\8 nylon on top of it. If yours are solid i would cut the rubber down till i was left with about 1/4 inch. My spring bracket was steel so i removed the same amount from it and the mig welded the bracket back together. When calculating how much you can drop it check the spring mount area on the cross member. Mine had a 5/16 recess in it. As for the end pads i did not touch them. I think cutting them would be hard since there only about 1/2 thick to start with. Some here have removed them and replace with a thin piece of nylon. I looked at that idea but i figured that too much road noise would transferred to the car. Good Luck !! :cheers:

wheeljo2

Agent 86, thanks for the insight.... it is always nice to get feeback from those that have "been there done that" before, especially on a Corvette since they seem to be most difficult to work on. With all the work going in to getting this done, the last thing i want to do is either not lower it enough or go too far if that is possible, probably not, when i bought my Z06 the front bushings were totally removed and the spring was laying on the lower a-frames, not a good idea since it made noise when pulled in and out of inclined areas.

cheers,
JWheel
:cheers:

customvettesc4

when i lowered mine i bought the kit also but ended up not using the urethane spacers. the 94 has different brackets that are aluminum instead of the steel for the earlier ones (which are harder to modify). just pull the spring cut all the rubber off the back side of the spring and cut your brackets down to match the spring thickness (easy to do once you see it ) i have two c4s and have removed the rubber insulaters on the a-arms on both of them with no irregulare wear or noise what so ever. i have found this to be a good way to get a full 2-3 inch drop and get some 275-40-17 tires to sit with almost no gap in the wheel well.
carefull if you run headers, mine are getting hit good on speed bumps!! :cuss fugetaboutit :cheers:

wheeljo2

Ok thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, which side of the rubber bushings in the middle of the spring that bolt to the cross member do I cut, I assume it would be the top of the spring that fits flush with the frame. Also, the bottom of the rubber bushings have nibbles indentations in them that fit snugly into the aluminum brackets. There are also metal spacers or shims at the top of the rubber bushings, I assume I ditch these as well, please confirm. Also I plan to cut off most of the rubber on the end of the springs where they are mated to the lower a-arm.

customvettesc4

yes, remove everything on the top of the spring only. leave the bottom rubber to positively lock the spring in when back together. you may need to make spacers for the bolts also, because now they will be extra long, and they are not threaded all the way down. it will all make perfect sense when it is apart and you see it . good luck.
by the way, has anyone found anybody that makes a longer bolt for the rear suspension(longer than the LONG bolts)
i have checked all my local bolt shops and they say they are not made!? hard to beleive but $20 for them from MAD or Eklers seems like a rip off.

CentralCoaster

It's not a standard size that would be stocked in a hardware store, but a metal shop should be able to order them for you. In such small quantities, you'd probably end up paying about $6 per bolt anyways, so is it worth the hassle? But I guess if you already know the size, you could check McMaster Carr's website, they should have what you need.

AGENT 86

I got a 3 foot piece of 9\16 alloy ready rod and grade 8 stoffer lock nuts from graingers. Cut them to any length you want. 15 bucks canadian !! :cheers:

wheeljo2

UPDATE... I completed the lowering of my front suspension over the weekend and am pleased with the result. I removed the right and left upper rubber bumper from the top of the monoleaf spring and cut the end bushings down as well. Once I reinstalled the lower control arms, shocks, and sway bar I now have the following ride height"

LF about 1 1/2" from top of tire to fender
RF about 2" from top of tire to fender
LR about 2" from top of tire to fender
RR about 2 1/2" from top of tire to fender

I've tried to lower the right rear sring bolt down (counter clockwise) to get the right rear down and the left front up that last 1/2" inch but can't seem to get it there (sort of like a track bar adjustment for you NASCAR fans). Of course this is exacerbated with a single driver applying additional weight to left side of vehicle. I think it has something to do with the front swar bar brackets but don't know for sure. Also I don't think a 4 wheel alignment will correct for this situation but I could be wrong?

Could someone please provide some helpful hints for me to try??

Thanks in advance,
JWheel
:steering:

vetteboy95

I found grade 8 bolts at Ace Hardware and Sears Hardware, I think even Menards. I think they were as long as 12", which is longer than the "long bolts."