With the stock radiator, 100 degree temps (high humidity too) in Florida, and the AC running full blast, I have never had my C4 go over about 197 degrees on the digital readout when I am moving at more than 40 mph. It is when I am in slow traffic or stopped, that the temp climbs any higher. After a discussion with one of the people at LPE, we came to an agreement that the problem is really airflow through the radiator when the vehicle is stopped and not the size of the radiator. Now, if I were running an endurance race of some kind, I imagine a bigger radiator would be a plus. But, for a street vehicle that gets driven aggressively on an occasion for a short blast, the larger radiator won't make much difference. It is our belief (the LPE rep, and mine), when stopped, that the larger radiator for me will only increase the time it takes for the temp to climb (because of the larger volume of coolant, not a bigger radiator), and it will climb to the same level if given long enough time.
Looking at the fans on my '92 shroud, I figure that the fans draw air through about 60% of the radiator area. It seems to me, a fan or fans that draw air through a greater percentage of the radiator area, or fans that draw more air through the same area would be the solution.

Does anyone make a coolant fan upgrade for the C4?

P.S. I pull the shroud and clean the radiator every two years.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 8:30 AM 6/13/2003]

 

Flush LPE, they are dead wrong. Yes, more air through the radiator will increase the heat transfer rate, BUT so will a radiator with another row of tubes because you have increased the area exposed to the air flow and this increases heat transfer. I decreased my stoplight temps by installing a Stewart water pump which has increased coolant flow. My stoplight temps used to be 220, now it doesn't go over 200. If you can install a higher flow water pump, you can reduce your stoplight engine temperature. The GM fans really do a good job and have high (don't know the number) air flow. Maybe another CFer can enlighten us about an aftermarket fan that outperforms the factory one.

 

jfb

What's a Stewart water pump, and do they make it for an LT1 or LT4?


Tom Piper

 

Well, I think I found the answer to my own question: http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm....asp?m_id=1151

I highly recommend reading the "Tech Support" and "Tech Tips" at ths site.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 2:30 PM 6/13/2003]

 

A 160' themostat...and some waterwetter, along with a change to a FlowKooler water pump. http://www.flowlooler.com
been using one for awhile out here in bumper to bumper freeway traffic....works great....as long as thr rest of the system is up to par!!!!!
Just a thought.
tony

:smash: :thumbs: :thumbs: :flag

 

Checked out the FlowKooler site but 1991 is the most recent year listed for Corvettes....

 

I am in Fl also. My 84 has the same problem in sit and wait mode my temp slowly climbs to 210. that is with 180 thermostat. I also replaced the fan switch with a 200 deg unit. I bought a aux fan for and 85 but can't find a picture on how to mount it. Any one able to help?Thanks
Mike :crazy:

 

I drive a 94. In traffic I had seen my temps up to 234. I took the car to Best Radiator here in Jacksonville and had it flushed. After getting the car home, I removed the fan shroud (those six 7mm bolts on the front sides of the shroud were a beeyotch) removed the radiator, and spent the next three hours cleaning out the radiator and condensor cores, as well as straightening all of the bent fins. The majority of the clogging was done by tiny bits of gravel and furry, oiley buildup on the front surfaces of both radiators. I refilled the system with a mix of 60/40 water/glycol. I added two containers of WaterWetter to the mix, and reassembled everything.

My highway speeds are now @177 during the day, and in stop and go traffic leaving the Navy base, which takes approximately 45 minutes to travel 4 miles, my temp has yet to hit 205.

This is what worked for me. I had a number of lengthy discussions with other forum members regarding flow rate through the radiator, coolant time in the radiator due to different thermostats, just a lot of stuff that I thought I understood, but as it turns out I was pretty misinformed. Ultimately, I decided to trust the design engineers and try to return the system to as close to its original condition as possible and let it work. I did that by the afore mentioned maintenance, and so far I have to say it has worked well. I am considering removing the 160 thermostat and replacing it with the 180, just to make sure I enter closed loop when the weather turns cooler. For my money, a few hours of maintenance outperformed all the theorizing I did.

:cheers:

 

Quote from Da Wiz:
"...spent the next three hours cleaning out the radiator and condensor cores, as well as straightening all of the bent fins. The majority of the clogging was done by tiny bits of gravel and furry, oiley buildup on the front surfaces of both radiators."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I could make a few assumptions but exactly what tools or processes did you use to accomplish the above?
Thanks...

 

:iagree: the Flow Kooler works wonders at 3000 RPM and lower

 

what the heck does water wetter do? :confused:

 

It's suppose to reduce the viscosity of water thus it will give up more latent heat

 

sounds like something I could use in the desert. Is it available at autoparts or catalog only????? its hot out here :reddevil

 

Hi Tom,

My 92 didn't really have any problems with heat until stop and go traffic. Then the temps started to rise (to about 220). I went with a Meziere electric water pump. Here's why: first it runs at a constant speed, the stock pump doesn't flow as much at idle, the Mez pump has a better flow at idle. second, my last OEM water pump started leaking and trashed my opti. The electric pump solves that problem and it is easy to replace if it should fail. This doesn't relieve you from the radiator cleaning chores. Keep it clean. The last reason I went this route is the reduction of a possible oil leak. The OEM water pump is driven by a shaft coming through the engine front cover and that shaft and seal is eliminated by the installation of the electric pump. If the guys out in AZ like it, that was good enough for me. One other thing you can do with the electric pump is to wire it so you can run it after the engine is shut off to continue cooling, guys that race like this function.

I'm writting a Tech Tip article on installing this pump in a LT-1. I'm getting some help from the guys on the forum. :grouphug:

:flag :flag :flag

 

unless you modify the temperature that the fans are called on (230 degrees) you will see 230 degrees is stopped or slow traffic.

 

My primary fan comes on at 185, my secondary fan comes on shortly after. I don't see anything over 220 (before the Meziere Pump upgrade).