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is it possible to change a fan belt AFTER the camber B. is installed??
thx
LT4
Yes, but it is tough. I would reccomend that you remove the brace and then reinstall it. Once you have installed the brace the first time, it is easier to do the second time. Several customers have commented that they can R&R the brace in just a few minutes.
I was 1/2 way through the inital brace install.... and I said to myself I have to be crazy NOT to change the belt NOW. So I stopped working on it until I could get a belt.
The install is a ROYAL PITA. first the dreaded driver side bolt, then the A/C lines are very tight, so I had to bend the A/C lines up a tad.... then I realized I should change the belt NOW... so I stopped for the night.
1 question through, will the factory bolt "lock" in the brace like it locks in the frame for alignment purposes? meaning will the bolt head turn while the alignment guy loosens the nut to add or subtract shims?
The factory bolt will fit in the slot of the brace which prevents it from turning during the alighment process. If you have to use the longer bolt, it will have to be held with a wrench.
More camber brace install questions that I havn't seen talked about before.
there is an 1/8 to 1/4" play between the brace and the horns. hardware package comes with shims to take up the play. OK, the instructions say forget them if you plan to align the car, or throw them in if your not aligning it.
Here's my 2 thoughts on shimming the brace.
1) forgot the shims, and tighten it down, which will tweak the frame in tighter by ~1/8", therefore increasing -camber :D, but decreasing caster :( cause it's only the front of the control arm.. hmmm .... trade 1 for the other.
2) or shim it tight, don't worry about tweaking the frame in closer, and letting an alignment shop get the ---camber and +++ caster I want.
I yanked a few alignment shims out anyway to get -camber (by eye) dammmm that factory goes way positve for NO reason.
hmmm, what is one to do. I wonder if it's good to even tweak the frame in closer by not shimming the brace in tight??
Well, I wonder the same thing too. I chose to install a shim. But I am getting excessive outer shoulder wear on the left front tire (last two tires). Should I have left the shim out to adjust the camber here? Would it alter the camber on the left only as I had a big pack of shims on the passenger side?
The right front side tire seems to wear better than the left. Is this frame related or is it my driving habits?
I would suggest using the shims to take up as much space as you can on your installation unless your going for aggressive autocross settings. The main purpose of the brace is to maintain the settings that you set when on the rack. If you pull it inward by not using any shims, it will give you a little extra negative camber and reduce your positve caster. which could make the car a little jumpy on the street when you hit truck ruts.
Another reason to use the shims will be to keep your alighment guy happy. Without them he will have to do a lot more nut turning to remove or install more shims while it's on the rack.
Well, I wonder the same thing too. I chose to install a shim. But I am getting excessive outer shoulder wear on the left front tire (last two tires). Should I have left the shim out to adjust the camber here? Would it alter the camber on the left only as I had a big pack of shims on the passenger side?
The right front side tire seems to wear better than the left. Is this frame related or is it my driving habits?
Outer tire wear is going to be caused by one of two things;
1) The toe-in is out of adjustment. (Camber/Caster will not wear tires unless it is really aggressive.)
2) Your driving into the corners a lot fast with the Camber-brace installed. :yesnod:
>>Another reason to use the shims will be to keep your alighment guy happy. Without them he will have to do a lot more nut turning to remove or install more shims while it's on the rack.<<
that is true, if the alignment guy goes to install a shim, the frame will un-tweak so he'll be nut turning for quite a while.......
The guy with the outside shoulder wear has to much positive camber from the factory. pull an aligmment shim front and rear out of that side, and that will help.
[QUOTE
The guy with the outside shoulder wear has to much positive camber from the factory. pull an aligmment shim front and rear out of that side, and that will help.[/QUOTE]
Front and rear of the top arm mount? Or front and rear wheels? I can't see either the car or my manual at the moment.
If it were toe, wouldn't both left and right be wearing the same? So I guess it's a combo of camber and love of hard driving. Maybe more hard driving.
front upper control arm. there are 2 long bolts. yank a shim from each of them. tighten the nuts down good. your done. That tire will start wearing normally.
this will result in a tad more toe out, but don't worry about it.
front upper control arm. there are 2 long bolts. yank a shim from each of them. tighten the nuts down good. your done. That tire will start wearing normally.
this will result in a tad more toe out, but don't worry about it.
Thanks. I'll be in there this Saturday to replace shocks and I'll handle it then.