When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If changing the bushings on my rear control arms doesn't do away with the weird noise (and I have my doubts though the bushings DO need changing) then I am going to probably have to change the rear bearings.
How big a job is this? Special tools or knowledge? Would I be better off letting a mechanic do it or is it a home job for a guy with decent hands but few tools?
While I am at it, I am going to replace the U-joints if that makes a big difference.
Your title reads bearings but the thread says bushings.
I'll assume that the later part of your thread is bearings.
I just did one of mine last week. It made a cracking noise when just starting off. I checked for play and found some. When i removed the bearing hub(2 years old) it seamed still pretty good. I put it in the vise and it took some time to find the play with the tire removed. Rather than reinstall i put in a new one,putting anti-seize on the splines and torqued to 200 lbs. Gone was the noise. I'll bet that if i just put anti-seize on the splines and re-torqued it it would have solved the noise problem.
As for installing the bearing it is pretty simple. Be sure to get a good torx bit( i used one made by Allen.Lifetime warranty)
Jack the car up high so you can get some leverage
All i removed was the caliper and bracket and needed no universal joint.
My impact wrench didn't do squat for either the axle nut nor the torx bollts.
I used a 6 foot piece of pipe for the axle nut and a 1 foot piece on the torx bolts.Neither came willingly but i did manage.The book says 167 for the axle nut and i read that someone figured that a manual needed 200 lbs. It took 200 with no problem so i left it. All is well.
Good luck with the project and if you don't have any big play in the wheel bearing try anti- seize on the splines and torque it close to 200 lbs. :cheers:
You said it all but you will need if its worn the washer that goes between the hub and the spline housing. GM part number 14076924 This is a dealer only item and it may take a few days to come in. So plan on replacing it so you wont be down any longer than necessary.
Re: Rear wheel bearings... How hard? (Southern Comfort)
You said it all but you will need if its worn the washer that goes between the hub and the spline housing. GM part number 14076924 This is a dealer only item and it may take a few days to come in. So plan on replacing it so you wont be down any longer than necessary.
Not hard.. takes about an hour... You need a T55, and a 36mm (??) socket.. I'm 99% sure its 36mm.
first one will take you 3 hours and once you get that one done the other side will take 45 minutes!!! You don't need to remove the half shaft nor do you need to remove the spring.
1. Remove wheel
2. remove cotter pin
3. reinstall wheel
4. lower car
5. loosen 36mm nut while the car is on the ground to keep stress off the differential
6. jack up car (both rear wheels in air)
7. use a few long extensions with the t-55 on the end and turn the haft shaft until you can see one of the bolts. Remove it and turn the half shaft until you can see the next one. Do that until all three are removed
8. remove the 36mm nut, washers, etc...
9. slide off the old bearing
10. do everything in reverse.
hope this helps.
takes me 45 minutes each side now and I’ve done 8 so far. 3 on my car and the others on friends cars.
zip products sells the bearing for $141.00... I would buy it from there.. No problems with quality.
EDIT: I have pics of most of the steps if you want to see them.. someplace on my hard drive...
Not hard.. takes about an hour... You need a T55, and a 36mm (??) socket.. I'm 99% sure its 36mm.
first one will take you 3 hours and once you get that one done the other side will take 45 minutes!!! You don't need to remove the half shaft nor do you need to remove the spring.
1. Remove wheel
2. remove cotter pin
3. reinstall wheel
4. lower car
5. loosen 36mm nut while the car is on the ground to keep stress off the differential
6. jack up car (both rear wheels in air)
7. use a few long extensions with the t-55 on the end and turn the haft shaft until you can see one of the bolts. Remove it and turn the half shaft until you can see the next one. Do that until all three are removed
8. remove the 36mm nut, washers, etc...
9. slide off the old bearing
10. do everything in reverse.
hope this helps.
takes me 45 minutes each side now and I’ve done 8 so far. 3 on my car and the others on friends cars.
zip products sells the bearing for $141.00... I would buy it from there.. No problems with quality.
EDIT: I have pics of most of the steps if you want to see them.. someplace on my hard drive...
[Modified by Bluewasp, 3:08 PM 6/24/2003]
Great info! Thanks. And thanks for the tip about Zip, i was going to order them from Mid America but Zip sounds cheaper by $29.00 each.
i would love to see the shots if ou could email them to me or post them here.
3. reinstall wheel
4. lower car
5. loosen 36mm nut while the car is on the ground to keep stress off the differential
I think I've mentioned this, but these steps aren't necessary. The parking brake is more than strong enough to hold the rear wheels while R&R'ing the 36mm nut. (Edit: true when parking brakes are installed on both sides)
Thanks for the pictures! The parts are ordered and will be installed this weekend. New bearings, u-joints and bushings. Should have my baby back to ship-shape in no time :thumbs:
I have to tell the truth, I didn't do it all on my own. I went to a local garage I have been using for years and helped the mechanic do it (I handed him tools ) :lolg:
The rear bearings, all 4 U-joints on the half shafts, all of the bushings have been changed. No more squeaks, creaks, moans and the rear end feels a lot tighter now! :cheers:
I did quite a few mods this weekend.
I removed the spare and carrier (it was the original and would not have worked with the wheels I have now anyway.)
I installed a switch under the hood so I can turn off the under-hood lights when I have the hood open for any length of time. (easier than removing the fuse)
I also installed the lettering front and rear and hard-wired (and hid) my radar detector.