I am not sure if my fx3 is functioning. When I turn the key to the on position the ride control light does not come on. When I switch between the different modes I feel no difference in dampening. How can I check codes in the susp computer?

 

Mine did the same thing and it was a burned out bulb in the DIC. Those little bulbes were hard to find and cost me $11 each at a Ford dealership of all places. If the light is not coming on, you cannot read the codes in the usual way since the codes are read by the src light blinking.

 

ECM codes are read by the blinking check engine light

 

The ECM had nothing to do with the ride control........

I would check the fuse first, then hunt the bulb. You can swap bulbs in the DIC just in case to save time, unless you can physically see that the bulb is toast, if not then the module behind the drivers seat is bad.

Kitt

 

:rolleyes:

5 bucks says the previous owner yanked the bulb out :jester

 

i flunked fx3 101 and i've gotta go back to class :D

 

can't you start your car 3 times without moving it to trigger a SRC error code?

or, better yet, the light should turn on for a few seconds when you turn the key to run....

 

you sir...... ARE CORRECT! :cheers:

 

too bad I misread the original question :bb

in that case, most likely the bulb is broken or removed...

I could only tell a slight difference in the shock settings when traveling down bumpy sections of the highway. It was hard to detect. SRC had no codes, but the car has 120+k miles and the passenger rear had leaked all its fluid out. I had the shocks rebuilt and revalved by Bilstein, now I can really tell the difference.

 

Ill check the bulb tonight. Which fuse should I look at if thats not the culprit? Ill use the lptws light since my car does not even have it (it lights up when key is on). Its a 94 for the fuse question.

 

Well you were right. The previous owner was busy at removing the src, sasr, and sabs lights the abs and asr are fine, I dont know why he removed them. I have a code 33 with the ride control. I take it this is the driver rear actuator. Before I tear the whole car apart how do I get to this actuator? Do I drop the shock or take apart the rear interior? If the one is bad does it keep the others from working?

 

you have to drop the shock, but it's pretty easy. jack up the spring a bit to remove tension then remove the nut on the spring bolt. (be carefull, because the spring has enough energy to do serious damage to you. be familiar with how your jack releases so you can do it smoothly and don't put the metal jack against the composite spring) there's two bolts up top that attach an almost oval plate to the car, remove those and you'll gain access to the actuator. There's a metal clip that keeps the actuator on the shock, remove that and the actuator pulls right off.

If one part of the FX3 is not working, I've heard it will default all shocks to the hardest postition, stopping the system from working as designed.

Edit: just thought i should add these instructions are from memory and may not be complete


[Modified by Raistlin, 12:16 AM 7/9/2003]

 

12 = Start of sequence
13 = Left rear time out
14 = Right Front time out
21 = Left Front time out
22 = Right Rear time out
31 = Left Front out of position
32 = Right Front out of position
33 = Left Rear out of position
34 = Right Rear out of position


Out of position codes are triggered if the computer senses that the actuator has not found the end stop position on the shock. Remove actuator at the indicated shock. Turn the valve gear on the shock stops after about 3 / 4 of turn, then you have a bad actuator. If it spins around continuously then it is a bad shock.

To remove the rear shock. Jack car up, put on jack stands. Remove two top bolts (13mm), don't worry about the spring tension pulling it down, as it will slowly do it while unbolting. There is no quick motion.

Once those bolts are done, remove the bottom bolt. It's a 13/16 After the nut is off, grab shock with one hand, bang on bolt with a rubber mallet to force out. Slowly lower the shock to where you can remove the actuator clip, then the actuator.

Reinstall, install lower mount first, then jack up the spindle to where the bolts can get a good enough grip, then tighten up, letting the bolt push the shock up and in.

 

:withstupid: Jeffvette has better instructions :cheers:

As long as the other links of the rear suspension are connected, there's no need to remove the spring. When I removed my shocks, I also tore apart my suspension to add poly bushings.

Good Luck!!

 

You haven't been through hell on the rear suspension till you had to completely remove the entire spindle. I had to do that to mount my Caliper bracket for the Brembos.