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My 1986 has been running rough, especially at idle and low speed. I had a tune up - first one in 81,000 miles and that didn't fix the problem. My mechanic plugged off the EGR valve and that helped a lot, although I still have some roughness at idle and low speed. Two questions: Does it hurt anything for the EGR to be plugged? and any suggestions as to clear up the remaing rough idling/low speed running?
Thanks!
When you say your mechanic plugged up the EGR, do you mean the vacuum line, or do you mean removed the EGR valve and blanked the manifold port as well?
If your EGR is passing (ie not sealing exhaust gasses) it will flow some exhaust whether or not the vacuum line is connected or not!
If the diaphragm is OK, you can actually remove, disassemble, clean and lap an EGR valve to make it seal again. However I use a very fine diamond lapping paste if I do it and although not difficult, I would'nt recommend a novice do it, you need to stake it to prevent it coming apart in service.
You might want to check your vacuum lines for cracking. and also your manifold, runner and throttle body gaskets for tightness. Another favorite one is the PCV valve gummed up. :steering:
heres what i did:
removed vacuum lines to egr..it should seal and not allow any bypass.
it was the cause of my aceleration, seemed like a miss at mid range throttle..
do you have any codes? if so is it code 32?..then check egr senor switch..replace..
one other problem i found ..fuel pump..works good now..good luck :cheers:
You might experience engine knock with the EGR removed. The EGR dumps exhaust into the combustion champer to cool the cc and lower NoX. If you get engine knock you could try retarting the timing.
Here's a question. ALL of my emmissions have been removed for some time now. I get the impression that the EGR goodies are completely worthless at this point. Am I right?
He plugged the vacuum hose that connects to the EGR valve. Does that mean that the problem is the EGR valve and plugging the vacuum hose was only partially sucessful? I mentioned the PCV valve to him but he didn't think it could be that. He's of the old (very) school, and I don't think he understands emission controls very well. Initially, I had him replace the spark plugs, wires, rotor, and fuel filter thinking the skip was probably due to never having a tune up after 81,000 miles. All that probably was due anyway, so I don't feel too stupid. One other question: could water in the gas cause the skip at low speed? or would it be more of a sputter, backfire type thing? I have had problems with the drain hose in the gas filler cavity stopping up. We had heavy rains just prior to this problem. The filler cavity wasn't holding water but, when I opened the cap, water dripped of the inside of the cap. I did add the additive to get rid of water but no change in idle/low spped skip. Thanks for all you help!
Plugging your vacuum line maintained the integrity of your vacuum system. It will not deactivate your EGR. Is the EGR stuck open? This will create a rich condition and you will notice a little smoke on first start up. It will idle unevenly and may cause fouling of the plugs after a while. The real fix is to make sure that you have good vacuum, make sure that the relay and electrical signals are correct. Check for mechanical functioning of the diaphragm. If the diaphragm doesn't move up and down easily, the the valve itself is at fault. Either replace it (recommended) or remove it completely and seal a plate over the hole. If you remove it then you need to make sure vacuum is sealed and fake out the computer with some fancy inline diode wiring. Check the post above and test all these things and fix it right. Remember, if you work on the valve itself, the plenum must come off.