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I am ready to dump my TPI. I have a ZZ4 crate motor with the HotCam and 1.6 roller rockers in it. I dont think I can go with AFR Heads as I have Hooker Long Tube 2149 headers. I am thinking maybe a TPI miniram III and a set of GMPP FastBurn heads, and a new throttle body, either 52mm or 54mm. Other options I am considering are Grumpys Custiom Stealth Ram, or an LT1 Intake conversion. The TPI is Emissions legal though I believe, which is influencing my decision. Also considering dumping the HotCam for one the TPI's. I am running 3.55 in the rear, and getting a new stall converter rated for 2300-2700. Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated. Other options include dropping gears down to 3.31 or 3.07, but I have to decide in a week before I rebuild my tranny so I dont have to regear it again(unless I get to keep the same drive gear and only have to change the driven gear!! )And I really dont want to deal with the trials and tribulations of the SuperRam especially after watching sspackman's thread.
Why not pick up a set off of a late L98. Do a valve job, a small mill, some porting and they'll support your planned mods :thumbs:. I really wish I hadn't gone with the S/R :nonod:
New ZZ4 came with 113 heads:thumbs: and compression is at 10.25:1 now, Would I get enough flow with porting and polishing these? Also porting and polishing == more down time, Time is one thing I am very short on this year. And I am not real confident on my ability to port and polish.
Moon- I certainly don't have any complaints with the performance of the S/R. It's just a pita to work with. It's nearly impossible to get the valve covers off with 1.6 rollers. That thing and I went round after round on the first installation. **** poor fitment. Mine will be up for sale by the end of the year. I will be going miniram or if I can find a nice priced hood a stealth ram.
Like I say, great power....I'm on the verge of 11's on street tires, still getting 18 in the city and 27 on the highway
In Lingenfelters book on building a small block he states that he uses the 113 cast head in alot of his engines. Of course he ports and polishes them and install a 2.00 intake and larger exhaust valve along with springs.
I ordered long block through local dealer, they were within $100 of mail order/internet pricing and I didn't have to mess with shipping. If I had the time to wait, I would get the ZZ383 coming out!
actually I have a forged crank, and the rest is basically the LT4 stuff, ie pink rods, and I believe the pistons are hypercrap though. I looked up all of the part numbers for all of the stuff once and the heads had all of the hotcam kit stuff too, just not the hotcam! I dont really want to up the ante again so quick with the forged pistons just yet, maybe after my warranty runs out! :D
Yes, see that is my problem right now, the 3.55's with a full roller engine and I am into 4500 rpm b4 you know it. :D My motor needs an inhaler, it is like it has asthma
What does the forged stuff have to do with RPM? I knew with boost or NOS it was stronger, are the LT4 Rods and Pistons up for some revving? Or will I grenade if I go much over 6k?
this is the rod info:
This kit includes 8 of P/N 10108688 high quality 5.70" length PM connecting rods which are used in the LT1 and LT4 Corvette engine in place of the old “pink rod” for higher strength and reliability. These rods can be used in competition or as street rods below 450 horsepower. Use P/N 10108688 for single rod replacement
The pistons just say high silicone aluminum
Wellll.... theoretically if I remember this right things like cast pistons are supposedly nearing their point of failure around 3500 feet per minute. With a 3.48" stroke you acheive that around 6100 RPM. It isn't like they're going to shatter as soon as you cross it (I hit my limiter once a week and thats around 6500), but sustained RPM at that speed isn't good for them.
I didn't know that, THANKS!!! If I swapped Heads I could drop in a set of forged pistons while I was at it....would I need to swap out the rods too? I am nearing the end of my engine driveline project and need to sort out the technical details to finish it right! I plan on ans MSD Digital 6 with the dial in limiter as opposed to the 6AL with the "pills". I just need to fine tune my intake selection as the TPI just cant hang with where I want to be.
From what I have found researching the part #'s on the ZZ4 engine, the bottom end(besides the forged and fileted crank is basically an LT1/LT4) What are the RPM limits on one of those?
I didn't know that, THANKS!!! If I swapped Heads I could drop in a set of forged pistons while I was at it....would I need to swap out the rods too? I am nearing the end of my engine driveline project and need to sort out the technical details to finish it right! I plan on ans MSD Digital 6 with the dial in limiter as opposed to the 6AL with the "pills". I just need to fine tune my intake selection as the TPI just cant hang with where I want to be.
From what I have found researching the part #'s on the ZZ4 engine, the bottom end(besides the forged and fileted crank is basically an LT1/LT4) What are the RPM limits on one of those?
[Modified by Dougs 90, 12:01 PM 7/27/2003]
The LT4 has a 6400 rpm from the factory and with the hot cam/valvetrain upgrade they are known to spin to 6500rpms.
Dont believe the hype about the ZZ4 block not being able to spin at high rpm's. It can with no problem. The bottom end is equilavent to the LT4 engine in all ways.
Dont believe the hype about the ZZ4 block not being able to spin at high rpm's. It can with no problem. The bottom end is equilavent to the LT4 engine in all ways.
That is one of the things that sold me on the engine! Next question: What is the difference between the LT1 and LT4 intake?