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I can get all the plugs out but the pass. side rear (#8 I believe) Should I be attempting from underneath the car or on top. THe only way I can get a socket on it is to use an angled extention, but when I start putting pressure on it, I back off because I don't want to break the plug. It is in there pretty tight.
At this stage of my life, I would never attempt to change the plugs in my 95. In addition to not enough time, my back tends to go out if I sneeze the wrong way. However, posts on this subject are frequent and everyone seems to have their pet tips and special tools. So it occurred to me that some enterprising Vette entrepeneur should put together a special "kit" with any specially modified wrenches, sockets, or other unique tools, along with instructions and illustrations necessary to accomplish the daunting task of LT-1 plug change. I'll bet the kit would be a good seller.
Just get a ratchet with a pivoting head. Put the spark plug socket on it, pivot the head so its at a 90 degree angle with the handle, and go to town. Simple!
I tried the pivoting extention, but it puts too much stress on the plug because of the angle. I will try the wrench on the socket and see if that works. that for the advice :thumbs:
Standard ratchet and standard plug socket will work. What you have to do to get the leverage to break it loose is use something to extend the ratchet handle about 18". Just be sure to place your left hand on the socket to counter the leverage else you risk twisting the plug off. I'm able to get all the plugs on my '95 using only the standard ratchet and plug socket, and using the handle extension to get #8 loose and sometimes #7 loose. About a 2 hr job.
I'm currently running NGK TR55ix iridiums. They help low to midrange throttle response and seem to help low end torque slightly, but lately wondering if they are somehow skimming a little bit off my upper rpm power (?)
with my headers i have to use a 3/4 wrench in my plug socket for removing several of my plugs, #7 i have to use a 5/8 wrench on the plug itself :yesnod:
I can get all the plugs out but the pass. side rear (#8 I believe) Should I be attempting from underneath the car or on top. THe only way I can get a socket on it is to use an angled extention, but when I start putting pressure on it, I back off because I don't want to break the plug. It is in there pretty tight.
Get the number 8 from up top. Use a 3 inch extension. The hardest part is getting the number 8 BACK in. What you have to do is stratle the engine. Put your left knee on you passenger front tire. And put your right knee on the engine block. Take your right hand and turn it 90 degress counter clock wise and start turning ;)
Its not that bad, I promise. took me about 30min for the #8. Don't panic, you'll get it.
I've used a standard spark plug socket with a 1" extension and a standard ratchet wrench. I'm pretty sure I can get the socket and extension on with no problem, then slip the ratchet on and just loosen the plug. Once the spark plug is loosened remove the ratchet and extension then remove the spark plug with the socket. Works every time on my '85. You can get a 1" extension at Sears or NAPA. :cool:
I have a spark plug socket that has an end you can get a smaller socket over. Put the spark plug socket on the 8th plug. Put the smaller socket on the 3/8" drive wrench, then use it to turn the end of the spark plug socket. Piece of cake. :yesnod:
I used the spark plug socket with a open end wrench on the end.
To put it back in, put a piece of fuel line hose on the end and use that to put it in. The hose was a great tip I picked up on the forum. The hose also keeps you from cross threading because it will only turn the plug if it in properly. :hurray:
Does anyone else have it to where when threading them in by hand they want to bind occasionally because there's play in the fit until they're beyond about 4/5 of the way screwed in? They glide in at first for four or five turns but then the tendency to bind starts. even with anti-seize on the threads.
I will give all of this a try over the weekend. Thanks for all the advice. I will pick up a few different length extentions in case I need them. :cheers:
Little tip....Beware a small sensor protruding from the side of the block, next to #8. A slip of the wrench will cause this sensor to break off. Removing the sensor for replacement will cause the coolant to drain from the block. After installing a new sensor, and refilling block with coolant, you will get underway you will notice 260 degrees on your coolant temp gauge. You will sit on the side of the road waiting for it to cool. You will limp home. You will break off one of the bolts holding the Thermostat housing on. You will spend 5 hours carefully drilling the bolt out, retapping and finding a new bolt to fit. After your all done...lol 13 hours later, you will have spent 3 times what you wanted to to change plugs!
This all happened to me when I changed plugs!
Dist Cap-35.00
Rotor Buton-11.00
Plugs-55.00
wires-60.00
new wire holders....hehe (depends on how many you broke)
New sensor-45.00
New tap and hardened Bit-20.00
New Thermonstat-5.00
I hope you guys are using anti-sieze on those spark plugs. It makes removal easier as well as being a lube when installing them. Remember... steel plug bodies and aluminum heads will bind to one another. The aluminum heads will be the loser when unsticking them.