hi all

ive done the SM Con my 90 L98

used a FW from DRM..

ok...what happened

car revs definitively faster, no slipping, the only downside is the well known Tranny rattel, but i can live with it..

if i can help anybody, ask....

and a BIG THANK YOU to all Forum members...you helped me a lot !!!!

 

:cool:

Any vibrations? I have heard of vibrations caused by the flywheel not being balanced with the engine internals.

 

no vabriatons, runs even smoother than before...

 

what clutch are you using?

 

i used a Camaro Disc, #12551309 from year 93-97 , 1 1/8 *26 Spline, sprunged

it looks very strong, 5 double springs in the disc

Camaro FW , machined fron DRM, Stock Pressure plate, Corvette throwout bearing

 

So the rattle isn't unbearable? I am trying to decide on which route to go when I replace my clutch, I can deal with a some noise, I have heard different reports thanks.

 

The rattle in mine was mostly at idle. Didn't bother me much, but if it had been a dash rattle I would have gone :crazy:

 

what he said...its a clacking noise in variuos frequency...

it´s most noticeable at idle, when you push the clutch, its gone...

i think, the noise is not tooo bad, as long as you know why and where it appears... ;)

 

Since you are "fresh meat" from a ZF tranny drop down, could you provide me some pointers in removing the ZF tranny for a clutch replacement? I am contemplating doing the job myself on my 95 LT1 but am reminded of how difficult it was to maneuver the trans-to-diff brace in and out of my od 86 4+3 car.

 

:lurk:

 

Does that rattle go away when you accelerate? or does it come back when you coast in gear?
I was wondering if it causes any false knock.

I have the DRM flywheel, I installed it about 5 years ago, but my clutch disk is he centerforce dual friction and it does not have the springs in it, which made so much racket that I pulled the flywheel right back out. I started the car, let the clutch out in neutral, and it said this cannot be in here like that. Shut it down, and ripped it right back out.

 

hi..a special answer for aggie


ok, i can tel you from experience...

first of all, fix the the engine, means, put some blocks of wood under the oil pan, so that i cannot press the distributor against the firewall-or it will break

drain trans oil, so it cannot leak out later

next, support the trans with a floor jack( extremley helpful!!) under the drain plug and loose the screws, diff and tranny..be careful, the nuts on top of the beam are locking nuts so you need to hold them


than remove the drive shaft, just unscrew the straps at the diff, push it in the trans , move it out oft the beam, and pull out of the trans...should move very easy

remove the center console, and remove the 4 egg nuts from the rubber boot

next, i drive the beam towards front end, using a block of wood and a hammer...just look for an edge to push on it

than remove the wood blocks under the engine and let the flóor jack down just that the distributor don´t hit the firewall..push beam forward, and wiggle it out

all i can say, that installation was much easier than removal..

than pump up the jack so that engine-trans is level

remove the trans-bellhousing bolts, and drive it out aos much as you can..

than let jack down, so that the shift lever clears with the rubber boot..

at this point the splines of the input shaft should be already out of the disc, andyou can remove the trans..always observe the shift lever...it cllears, but very little...

istallation was also much easier than removing

i think, thats ist, if you have further questions, just drop an email..

 

Thanks my Austrian friend for passing on that info. It sounds a lot like the 86 4+3 job I did a few years ago. The toughest part does sound like reaching those lock nuts and maneuvering the C-brace so the transmission can clear the splines - just like the 4+3. And that tranny was a monster too with the overdrive unit stuck on the end. Thanks for the detailed tips!!!!

 

:iagree: I completed mine a short while ago, better than before. The transmission does make a bit more noise, but the change was worth it. I used GM transmission oil 5-30 wt, I think maybe the Castrol might reduce the noise a bit because of the higher viscosity. I'll probably change mine just to check my theory.

 

the rattle goes away under acceleration, and come back under coasting when little or no load is on the gears

 

There's an easy fix for the rattle...

...Turn the radio up...