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The object is to position the piston midway between it's upper and lower limits in the lifter.
I tighten to 1/2 turn + about 1/8 turn. I've found that I can determine zero lash to within 1/8 turn so this puts my preload to 1/2-3/4 turn, which is within limits for my L98.
Any really. Some people go more on the turn which opens the valves a little faster and a little more, but puts a small amount more strain on the valvetrain and more parasitic loss. I go with less turn for less loss and supposedly faster rev'ing.
In the shop manual there's a technique that I use that only requires the engine be turned over (360 degrees) one time. You start with the timing mark set on zero with the #1 cylinder at TDC. (pull the first spark plug on driver's side to know when it's at TDC) In that position you adjust the following valves: Exhaust 1,3,4,8 Intake 1,2,5,7. Rotate the engine 360 degrees to zero. (This puts # 6 at TDC) adjust the following valves: Exhaust 2,5,6,7 Intake3,4,6,8. Done!
I found this technique on forum and I used it with 1/2 turn.
Did anyone else use this technique, and is it good?
Did anyone else use this technique, and is it good?
Yup, thats perfectly fine. Thats how I set mine up before firing it. I do though go back and reset them with the engine running. I always tend to get 1 or 2 a little loose so they clack some. I'll pull a valve cover off while its running and tighten them ALL a little too tight so that they're qutie and then just start with the front and work my way back loosening them slooowly until it clacks and then tightening it sloooowly until it is silent (the point of silence = 0 lash) and then I turn it another 1/4 slowly.
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Re: (C4Crazy787)
Wouldn't it be nice to have a valve cover with an opening for adjusting valves with the engine running? :iagree:
It's very nice. Years ago I bought a single valve cover and cut a long slot in the top for access to the rockers while the engine is running. Cheap tool.
By the way, Scorp, tightening down a hydraulic lifter will not increase lift, valve acceleration, or duration. (unless you bottom the lifter out, plus a little more)
Someone gave you some erroneous info.
By the way, Scorp, tightening down a hydraulic lifter will not increase lift, valve acceleration, or duration. (unless you bottom the lifter out, plus a little more)
Eh? I'll let a few more chime in before I comment. :)
I have a stock cam and lifters in my 89. The Zero + 1/2 gives me very noisy lifters...I have tried it! My "least valve noise" results come from zero + 1 full turn as recommended in the Helms manual. I cannot feel the difference in performance between 1/2 turn vs 1 turn in a stock engine! My $.02 worth!
I have always heard that to maximize hydraulic lifter rev potential, the method was to zero lash plus the bare minimum (1/8 to 1/4 turn). The Chevy Power books among others recommended this technique. Makes sense, in that there would be very little to pump up.
Don't know what the business of increasing the turns to increase cam duration and/or early lift is all about.