I might be intrested in that crank too.

is it neutral or does it need heavy metal?

how deep was the nitride?
who made it
how much?

offshoreperformance@yahoo.com :flag


[Modified by offershore, 4:05 AM 8/13/2003]

 

I think what he may have been trying to say regarding the roller lifters was if you use an OEM roller cam block with OEM roller lifters which indeed IS cheaper than retro-fit tie-bar lifters...
-Jeb

 

$585.00 as stated above, don't know how "deep" the nitriding is but it's really insignificant since the crank has also been cryogenically treated which goes above and beyond anything the nitriding would provide... As for balance this crank has extra material in the counterweights and can be either internally or externally balanced. I haven't had one so far I've had to use mallory on but that depends entirely on what your bobweight is...
-Jeb

 

I've built several 406 cars: C4 406 w/SR 375RWHP lots of street driving, 74 Camaro 650RWHP w/nos 9.30's 150mph mostly dragged, street driven 406 in malibu 11.o's 120mph street driven, no cooling problems . And the only reason I'm not building one again is because I started on a 383 but if I don't sell my block I will build one.The dragged car has a half filled block. :iagree:

 

Yep I am aware that old 350 blocks use the same lifters as 400 blocks or any sbc for that matter as far as I know. I was only noting you can build a 383 using a late model roller block and use the stock lifters with your roller cam. If you want a roller cam in your 400 you will need to purchase retrofit lifters. If you are going to use a roller cam this is a $250ish difference between the 2 motors. :D

 

 

YOU ARE RIGHT ON THE RETRO THAT IS WHY I WOULDNT WASTE MY TIME ON THEM AND JUST PUT IN A SOLID ROLLER AND HAVE EVEN MORE HPS :cheers:

 

That is just a bunch of crap! As a matter of fact, my 406 run way cooler than my 350 ever did! Same non-drilled 190 AFR heads on it, and same (OEM) never flushed radiator. I drove around the other day in 90*+ weather and it never got over 200*. At the strip before every run the car is ~175* with no added effort to cool it. Since installing the 406 I have yet to use my jumpered fan switch at the track like I used to have to with my 350. A few times I actually was worried about it being too cool, last vette challenge and for those that were there you know it was anything but cool outside.

A properly built 400 motor will live long and run hard a good long time. And personally between the motor I have driven 383s and my 406 there is no comparing the two. The 406 has soooooo much torque off the line its scarey and keeps it there through the entire 1/4 mile. Hell my motor only looses about 80ft-fts through the entire run RPM range.

On the street its just about as awesome as you could get and still be within reasonable. Anything more and it would be downright rediculous.

There is nothing wrong with 383s, but two setups being equal the 400 will nearly always come out ahead due to the added CIs.

It seems that the uninformed always throw out the cooling mythes about the 400s. I think it would be wiser to listen to the people that are actually running the motors, rather than the rumors the float around. Hell I see 10X the amount of overheating issues related to stock 350s than I do the 400s. Granted there are more 350s on here, but there are probably more 400s being pushed to the limits that should lead to overheating if there is such a problem.

 

FWIW, I have a 400 for my car. Why f*#@ around with anything less? :thumbs:

 

My crank is cut to fit in a 350 so for me to use it in a 400 I would need to use those spacer main bearing, are they any good?

 

I agree with ski.
Personal experience with a 406; no cooling problems.
I put 90,000+ miles on one mildly built 400 block and never had a cooling issue, even pulling a boat in the SoCal desert many times at 100-115 deg F outside temps (engine was in a 3/4T van). If everything is right (engine and cooling system) the 400 cools just fine.
Torque? Oh-my-gosh. Effortless, bottomless, unending streams of power everywhere. I used to say "if it's running, it's making power".

Too bad it won't go into my '96 Corvette easily....

Larry
code5coupe
:seeya


[Modified by rocco16, 7:57 PM 8/16/2003]

 

I am going to have to agree with jesse. I just pulled my 406 from my S10 and I drove this thing around in 90+ degree heat and never had a problem. Temps would max at 210 in traffic. I pounded the hell out of that engine everytime I drove it and it never skipped a beat or overheated. I routinely spun it to 5000 RPM with stock crank, rods, and POS keith black pistons and never had an issue. The only reason I pulled it was to put it in the vette.

If your watching this thread jesse please remove the gif of my g/f from your sig ;) :eek:

 

well look's like I'll just have to agree they never had cooling sys.,cracked block, or head problems. It was such a good motor they stopped making it because it was to dam good! :crazy:

 

Well come back with something a little more concrete than isolated incidents and perhaps it will outweight the 10 or so people that race/drive/tow with them that are saying they have no problems. :rolleyes:

I suppose someday GM will quite making the cast iron 350s also....hmmm LS1 aluminum block......Guess all the iron blocks are junk. :smash:

 

I agree with JBurnett and Ski, the 400 will make more power than the 383 due to better breathing. The only problem is finding one, and a little added cost for the block. As for over heating, the only problem I've ever heard of, was when people neglect to drill the steam holes. Every article I've ever read says to drill the steam holes, and at a certain angle too.

:chevy

 

Curveit,

Both Corky and I never drilled the steam holes. My car is seldomly over 200*, even at idle in 90+ weather.

Like I said earlier, this is with the stock never flushed or modified radiator.

Corky doesn't advise drilling them, as he said, he has built several of them and the ones that were drilled had head gasket problems after some time. He sealed up the one heads that were drilled with expoxy and then he never had a head gasket problem.

I believe that most of the overheating issues came from back in the 70/80s when the cooling systems were a 1/4 as effective as they are nowdays. Any performance engine will generate more heat and require a better cooling system. Fortunate for us, the vettes have a pretty good system off the bat.

Upstate.....if that is your girlfriend you better hold on tight! Your only a state away and I'm on my way.... :steering: :D :p:


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 7:18 PM 8/16/2003]

 

Mercruiser makes the alu.block for chev.

can't wait to see the C6 mercruiser engine,caddy frame and chevy emblems :lolg:


[Modified by offershore, 12:33 AM 8/17/2003]

 

From what I was told when I was at the St Catherines engine assembly facility, the quality engineers I was talking to said that a good many of their blocks are supplied from GM foundaries......

Mercruiser may be the main supplier, but that doesn't guarentee they are all from there, at least is not the impression they gave me.

 

No one seems to have mentioned the Dart aluminium small block with capacity up to 454 ci. They are listed at about $3600 dollars for the block. Is it just the price or does it have other issues that make it unsuitable for C4's?

 

They are very suitable and very stout, it just the price that most don't like. THey would make an awesome platform for a 400-454 CI motor. :cheers: