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As most of you know I was converting to the LS1 coil setup. Let me tell you, this thing works great.
My opti was making the car sputter at around 4500-5000 rpm, well no more. It's still the same opti with the high voltage bypassed. The hi and lo res signals are still being used and I now have one coil per cylinder. Took it for a test drive and she's smooth as hell.
I won't get into details right now, but there are a few issues to be dealt with, mainly some wiring instructions(or lack of). But overall it's a pretty easy install. Hardest part was fabricating the brackets so they could mount to the engine.
I have to thank tomdcarguy for doing the install, I got frustrated after busting so many bolts, so I let a pro handle the rest of the job and it's a god thing, he figured out the wiring no problem.
SO tomorrow will be the big test, she hits the track and well see what kind of improvement it is.
Total cost so far is around $800(not including labor), but considering it will be the last time you have to ever worry about the opti, it's a good investment.
I'm off to sleep, so I'll answer any questions tomorrow night and hopefully have a few pics. :sleep:
That is something that will catch on, once opti's go out, then time to do the conversion. In the end it will come out cheaper once you repalce 2 opti's.
Car was consistent as hell, not a sputter hesitation or miss at all. Ran very smooth. This is probably the best mod for an LT1 car.
I can't make any comparisons to my previous runs since my battery was dying, I had to leave the engine running most of the day, so comparing runs made with the engine temp at 230 compared to my normal temp of 170 can't be done. In two weeks, I'll have a new battery and probably alternator, so I can make a better comparison.
There are quiet a few F body guys doing the LS1 coil pack crank trigger conversion. I personally know and met Marc a few yrs ago but he live in (cincinati? spelling) did the conversion on his supercharged 383LT1 camaro. He say its running great. But now you are the only one have done the conversion the C4, I sure some of us will follow your foot steps.
wow. sounds like a great setup. when will it be ready to purchase? not to start any fires but it will be interesting to see how this and the dynespark measure up against each other
LTCC-$399
LS1 Coils-$29 each x 8=$232
LS1 Coil brackets-$7 x 2=$14
Magnecor wires-$78(including shipping) I got the ones for the 6.0 Vortec from my truck, they are about 1.5 inches too short(you may see in the pics). I'll have to do some research on some longer ones and get the part #'s
Bolts for the coils to attach to the brackets-you have two choices, go to dealer and buy 16 bolts at $5.18 a piece($82.88) or go to Home Depot and get 16 6x1x20mm bolts for 15 cents each($2.40)
The extensions to attach the brackets to the heads were an old oil pan ring from a 350.
Welding was required to attach the extensions to the brackets and the extensions bolted where the old wire looms were attached.
When I finally post teh pics, you will see where I used studs instead of the bolts, mostly due to where I busted off the bolt in the bracket. They were in there so tight that Tom just welded a stud instead of busting knuckles trying to get the piece out.
So my grand total is $725.40(not including shipping on some parts).
Labor was about 5 hours.
1st step was to fabricate the brackets.
Install coils
remove old plug wires
install brackets
install new wires
connect coils to the LTCC box
mount box
hook up wires
The box has these wires coming out of it:
8 wires(pink and black and some other colors)one for each coil(including ground wires)
Low res OPTI signal
Hi res OPTI signal
+12 volt signal for logic circuits(switched IGN)
Ground for logic circuits
2-step trigger input
EST input from PCM@coil connector
The OPTI signals connect inline at the junction of the 4 pin OPTI pigtail
This also has a rev limiter built in and a NO2 retard.
Brian, the opti is still intact, just no plug wires, but there is no power going to it, everything was bypassed.
I thought you still had to use it's optical sensor? That would mean some power is going to it? Just no coil or output? If there's no power going to it, then why would you need to leave it on?