Here we go.. I read the right up by Craig Marcho. And I used that search button on the left hand side of the screen :) Only thing that scares me is the part where you can have it turn sharper going on one side or the other.

TIA
Rich


[Modified by Corvette0096, 9:56 AM 8/25/2003]

 

Sent you a zip folder of some pics when John G 92 replaced mine. :cheers:

 

ugh, you have an 85 like me
man oh man....it was a PITA to do...and i did mine TWICE (i upgraded to the Z51 rack also -- and LOVE IT) the reason i did twice is that it sprung a MAJOR leak after hitting a pothole 3 days after i changed it! thank god for lifetime warranties. i had a friend help me with mine (Thanks Bill Reid) the first time, then the second time i did it on my own with just minor phone support from Bill again.
not to bacd, but you will need a special tool for the job....i think it was an 18MM open ended flare nut wrench to remove one of the lines from the rack

 

:iagree:
Took that same line off this week end and it is a 18mm

 

Good to know, I will take a trip to Sears..

 

[QUOTE] Only thing that scares me is the part where you can have it turn sharper going on one side or the other.

TIA
Rich

I just did mine a couple of weeks ago switching to rebuilt Z51. It was a fairly simple job. Having it on ramps makes it alot easier. Be sure to remove sway bar(pay attention to how it mounts because you don't want to wrestle it in twice,like i did :crazy: )
I left equal amount of threads on each tie rod. I then used a tape measure to set toe. Adjust both sides at same time so you keep rack centered. Once toe is set drive it out and back in your driveway trying to keep car straight. Now you will probably notice your steering wheel is off centered. Pull the steering wheel and center it as best as possible. Drive around the block and see how centered the wheel is. At this point you can now adjust tie rod small amounts to finish centering it. If the steering wheel is pointing left, lengthen left tie rod and shorten right tie rod. If right the opposite applies. You can now set final toe by measuring from outside groove in front and rear of tire. I set mine to 1/16 total toe in(1/32 each). This will give you a centered rack and a centered steering wheel. If you have any more q's shoot me an IM.
:cheers:


[Modified by AGENT 86, 5:28 PM 8/25/2003]

 

:iagree:

Yes, make note of which way the bend in the sway bar faces. Also helps to remove the cooling fan. Make sure when you exchange your rack you keep the external lines on top of the rack, I didn't and couldn't finish my weekend project until the dealer I bought the rack from opened again on Monday. :banghead:

 

My rebuilt unit had all the small lines. Take yours out and bring the whole thing with you. That way you can compare on the spot.

 

The rack came out easier than I thought. I see There is a key way on the rack where the steering shaft goes in, One bolt. That should make it easy to get it lined up. Steering wheel is dead center and I will count the numbers of turns when I remove the tie rod ends on both sides and I will measure the distance from the rack to tie rod end to make sure that I am not off any. I just hope the guy that rebuilt it never messed with that worm gear..

 

[QUOTE]Steering wheel is dead center and I will count the numbers of turns when I remove the tie rod ends on both sides and I will measure the distance from the rack to tie rod end to make sure that I am not off any.

It may be straight now but when you put the new rack it will likely need to be pulled and alighned to center of rack. The pinion is keyed like you said but when they rebuild it seems they don't care where the key is when they reassemble. Mine was off 90 degrees. Good Luck !!
:cheers:

 

New Rack and Pump and hoses are in and new tie rods. Piece of cake.. :yesnod: Great write up By Craig Marcho.

 

:thumbs:

 

Thanks! That write up was on my '85, just like yours! I'm glad it helped.

:thumbs: :cheers: