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When replacing a rear u-joint the other day I started looking at some of the rear bushings. Mine aren't completely shot but I figure it wouldn't hurt to replace them. Are poly bushings worth it and how hard is it to change all the bushings on the car?
I also understand that poly bushings can squeak but I've got a lot of squeaks already :)
Not too hard at all, really once you get everything apart. The hardest are probably the front upper"A" arms because they have to be pressed in. If you install grease zerks on the front control arms you can eliminate the squeaking there. You can get a kit from Energy Suspension that has all of the bushings, and you can get them in red or black.
I purchased the ES master kit from Summit. I got the black ones and they were graphite impregnated. I put the kit in myself with a small bench vise, drill, 6" 2 arm puller, jackstands and wrenches and such.
I also revalved my Bilsteins while the suspension was apart. I think the ride greatly improved, even though I put in stiffer shocks, because of the bushings.
The front A-arm is tough. You need a 36mm (I think) socket. The nut was held on with red locktite and was very difficult to remove, however I didn't need a press to put the bushings in.
The master kit does not include the sway bar bushings or shock bushings. They only include two very small containers of grease, so I bought some synthetic marine grease as per advice I recieved on this forum. I used a lot and have not heard any squeaks, but they've only been on for a few thousand miles.
FWTW Both upper and lower A frame bushings are NOT available from Chevy. According to GM, if you need new bushings, you install new A frames. Moog, Spicer, etc. don't offer these bushings, either. I am looking at the PST front suspension kit. It includes the 4 ball joints, 2 outer tie rod ends and ALL the bushings, including the sway bar bushings and link donuts. The bushings are "polygraphite". I need to replace my "hard" parts as well as the bushings. The whole kit is $249.95. That's less that the "hard" parts alone from Moog.
Got mine from Energy Susp. and it is frickin awesome!!!! Yes alot of work but worth very dime.A-arms are the worst but doable with hand tools and a vise and drill and a large socket as stated above. DO IT!!
Matt
Check the tech tips for a press using your vise at home . It is my tip!! :D :D :D
Matt
I am doing mine now and its not all that easy. I have acess to a full machine shop full of tools and its taking me a lot more time that I thought. One thing to note is that the work just takes time and patience and like almost everyone said, its the upper A-Arm thats the bear. Although I cant say I know first hand about the squeeks, I did take the time to put in Zerk fitting in every part. I am certain it will be well worth the effort. Combined with the revalved shocks, chassis stiffeners (under car and camber) I should be in for some fun. I'd say give it a full weekend and get a shop to do the upper arms for you while you watch a race on TV.
Nathan,
I did the entire rear suspension with Pro-Thane bushings and it really wasnt difficult at all.If you dont have access to a press,just drill a bunch of holes around the sleeves of the old bushings and if you have a bench vise,lock a control arm down it it(with something to prevent scratching) and then use a C clamp and wd40 to push the sleeves out.Once the sleeves are out,you can easily pry the old bushings out.
Dont be suprised if you find alot of white corrosion between the bushings and the eye holes.I used a dremel w/sanding roll to clean them up.New Bushings are 2 pieces and can be pushed in by hand.By a big tube of marine grease and smear away on both sides and be sure it oozes out when done.Wipe away access and bolt back on.Should not make any noise after that.
The ride was a bit harder yet smoother when done with no more hard
BANGS over bumps like with the old dry rotted bushings.
I did everything in the rear except the trailing links (dog bones). If I was to do it over, I'd just purcahse some new threaded camber rods with poly bushing and replace the stock aluminum ones rather than removing the old bushings. I'd say the biggest benefit is the diff carrier bushings. The drivetrain (engine/trans/rear diff) is supported by 2 motor mounts and the two rear diff bushings. Replacing the rear diff carrier bushings really stiffens up the handling with no noticiable increase in noise, vibration, harshness.
I didn't replace the dogbone bushing because I heard with soft springs those bushings might bind...not sure if it's and issue.
For me, it would depend on how the car will be used. Fro competition, the poly bushings do work, but they also might put you in a different (more competitive) class.
If you are going to keep the car on the street, I wouldn't bother doing poly bushings. Even on the sway bars alone, they will compromise ride quality noticeably. If poly bushings are so great, the General would have installed them as OEM. Squeeking and harsher ride have no place on the street and get old very fast, unless you only drive the car a few times per season. Spend any amount of time in the car, and you will learn hate them. I've had two cars that I've gone from full OEM to Poly, and in both cases, returned the car back to rubber OEM bushings. Squeek and Clunk!
Others seem to like them. "Your mileage may differ".
:iagree: Very nice...I have seen this kit also and wondered if it was worth it or not.....
I posted a question a couple weeks ago concerning the PST kit. I had two respondents, and both loved it. I plan on buying this kit, soon, barring any negitive feedback from THIS thread. I will take all 4 of my A frames to an alignment/front end shop to have the bushings pressed. I have limited facilities, and I don't want to screw up those, pricey, aluminum, gems.
I would do them again. I have no squeaks or harshness to my vette. They make the vette FEEL like a vette!!!!!! I also have the CAMBER BRACE installed as well. The 89 WILL out corner the 98 w/ base susp that i have,HANDS DOWN!! I can go into a corner doing lets say 35 and just crank the wheel and you will be thereINSTANTLY!!! The first time i tried i was unsure but now sit back and cinch that seat belt!!! WE ARE TURNING!!! It feels BETTER than new!!
Matt