What do you guys think is the best aftermarket radiator? It has to fit like OEM, cool as well or better & have provision for an oil cooler built in.
Do I NEED a new radiator, the short answer is no. However I love overkill and would like to have it there, especially the oil cooler should I ever do any extended high speed driving.
Do I NEED a new radiator, the short answer is no. However I love overkill and would like to have it there, especially the oil cooler should I ever do any extended high speed driving.
I've only used one but I love my Dewitts, you can actually talk to the guys / owner which really helps! Plus they are going be making the rubber inserts ,, so no cutting of your stock stuff.
Mine dropped in, with no alterations, it was a 30-45 minute job start to finish.
My new 406 has NEVER seen more than 188 degrees with major hot rodding and messed up tuning, now it runs at 176 all day long.
http://www.dewitts.com/
Mine dropped in, with no alterations, it was a 30-45 minute job start to finish.
My new 406 has NEVER seen more than 188 degrees with major hot rodding and messed up tuning, now it runs at 176 all day long.
http://www.dewitts.com/
I've always heard good things about Be-Cool Radiators, they may be a little pricey though. :cheers:
Quote:
http://www.dewitts.com/
Maybe I'm just stupid, but I don't see much of anything for anything newer than 1982http://www.dewitts.com/
DOH!, maybe it's in the PDF file.
[Modified by Nathan Plemons, 10:42 AM 9/3/2003]
Quote:
http://www.dewitts.com/
Maybe I'm just stupid, but I don't see much of anything for anything newer than 1982
DOH!, maybe it's in the PDF file.
[Modified by Nathan Plemons, 10:42 AM 9/3/2003]
Just call them and they will fill you in!http://www.dewitts.com/
Maybe I'm just stupid, but I don't see much of anything for anything newer than 1982
DOH!, maybe it's in the PDF file.
[Modified by Nathan Plemons, 10:42 AM 9/3/2003]
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I went with a Ron Davis with integrated oil cooler.
Been in the low 100's down here and the car idles in busy traffic at 190 degrees...
Also know that Fluidyne makes a direct-fit aluminum radiator that is said by them to be good up to 450 HP.
http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_hpexotics.html
They make one with cooler for automatics and one without....no modifications necessary.
Been in the low 100's down here and the car idles in busy traffic at 190 degrees...
Also know that Fluidyne makes a direct-fit aluminum radiator that is said by them to be good up to 450 HP.
http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_hpexotics.html
They make one with cooler for automatics and one without....no modifications necessary.
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ExploreNathan,
I do make a C4 aluminum "direct fit". It's just not shown on the website yet. We have one for 84-89 (A84*) and one for 90-96 (A90*) The * is for transmission type , add A for auto and M for manual.
I am also looking at breaking up the A84 into two numbers because the model we are making has the low coolant fitting and I think 86-89 didn't have this. So we might be looking at a 86-89 (A86) model too!
Right now, the upper two rubber insulators for the A84 model need to be trimmed a little to allow for the thicker core. We are working on new rubber pieces that we will supply with the radiator but that's going to be a few months. The A90 requires no cutting or mods at all.
I case anyone doesn't know, the C4 radiators are single row aluminum cores with plastic end tanks. The one row is about 7/8" wide. The DeWitt "direct fit" is a double row, with 1" tubes and tig welded, press formed end tanks. This will more than double the factory cooling. Cost is $495
I will post pictures tomorrow and the website site will also be updated. We will also be showing these at mid-america funfest.
I do make a C4 aluminum "direct fit". It's just not shown on the website yet. We have one for 84-89 (A84*) and one for 90-96 (A90*) The * is for transmission type , add A for auto and M for manual.
I am also looking at breaking up the A84 into two numbers because the model we are making has the low coolant fitting and I think 86-89 didn't have this. So we might be looking at a 86-89 (A86) model too!
Right now, the upper two rubber insulators for the A84 model need to be trimmed a little to allow for the thicker core. We are working on new rubber pieces that we will supply with the radiator but that's going to be a few months. The A90 requires no cutting or mods at all.
I case anyone doesn't know, the C4 radiators are single row aluminum cores with plastic end tanks. The one row is about 7/8" wide. The DeWitt "direct fit" is a double row, with 1" tubes and tig welded, press formed end tanks. This will more than double the factory cooling. Cost is $495
I will post pictures tomorrow and the website site will also be updated. We will also be showing these at mid-america funfest.
Mr. DeWitt
how about one with an engine oil cooler.
many of us want to add an oil cooler and don't want to be bothered with the hassle of mounting it.
I have been noticing my Impala, my yukon, my GMC van all have oil coolers in the DRIVER side of the raditor.
96 LT4
thx
Larry
how about one with an engine oil cooler.
many of us want to add an oil cooler and don't want to be bothered with the hassle of mounting it.
I have been noticing my Impala, my yukon, my GMC van all have oil coolers in the DRIVER side of the raditor.
96 LT4
thx
Larry
for OEM replacement go with Modine radiators. cost was $189.00Can.. cooling tubings are 1 1/4" aluminium with aluminuim fins..just about double of a stock rad...and has perform well!
http://www.modine.com/english/index2...=NA&country=US find a supplier near you :flag use your buck to the best value if you want :seeya
http://www.modine.com/english/index2...=NA&country=US find a supplier near you :flag use your buck to the best value if you want :seeya
We could probably offer one but I never really understood the need. If you lower the engine coolant from say, 210 to 180, with a HP radiator, aren't you cooling the engine oil too? GM never thought an oil cooler was necessary.
The other item is space. The C4 radiators, incased in plastic shrouding, leave no room for error, nor options. Very crowded in there already.
The other item is space. The C4 radiators, incased in plastic shrouding, leave no room for error, nor options. Very crowded in there already.
Gm used oil coolers on L98 vettes and LT1 f-bodies. I agree with you that it wouldn't be necessary for 99% of drivers 99% of the time. If you decide to road race though it might come up.
>>We could probably offer one but I never really understood the need. If you lower the engine coolant from say, 210 to 180, with a HP radiator, aren't you cooling the engine oil too? GM never thought an oil cooler was necessary. <<
common misconception. oil temp is NOT related to coolant temp. oil temp is directly related to RPM's. if you run around the race track hammering the motor at 6000 RPM's for 1/2 hour, the oil temp will soar, while the coolant temp rises very minimal. GM specs synthetic oil in the vette so they could forget the oil cooler... but as stated above, alot of GM cars have oil to coolant coolers.
common misconception. oil temp is NOT related to coolant temp. oil temp is directly related to RPM's. if you run around the race track hammering the motor at 6000 RPM's for 1/2 hour, the oil temp will soar, while the coolant temp rises very minimal. GM specs synthetic oil in the vette so they could forget the oil cooler... but as stated above, alot of GM cars have oil to coolant coolers.
Quote:
for OEM replacement go with Modine radiators. cost was $189.00Can.. cooling tubings are 1 1/4" aluminium with aluminuim fins..just about double of a stock rad...and has perform well!
for OEM replacement go with Modine radiators. cost was $189.00Can.. cooling tubings are 1 1/4" aluminium with aluminuim fins..just about double of a stock rad...and has perform well!
The 90-96 GM core was 1 1/4" aluminum tubes already. The modine is just a replacement not an upgrade. I admit there are cheaper radiators, ours are just for serious upgraders. Most failures with the stock radiators is the plastic tanks crack or the rubber gasket blows out. That will not happen with ours.

I could not be happier with my Rad from Dewitts, my oil is always within 30 degrees of the coolant BUT I do have a 7 qt oil pan and the factory cooler.
As far as fit & finish excellent, like I said above, it was easier to install than I had expected it to be. :thumbs:
As far as fit & finish excellent, like I said above, it was easier to install than I had expected it to be. :thumbs:
Quote:
>>We could probably offer one but I never really understood the need. If you lower the engine coolant from say, 210 to 180, with a HP radiator, aren't you cooling the engine oil too? GM never thought an oil cooler was necessary. <<
common misconception. oil temp is NOT related to coolant temp. oil temp is directly related to RPM's. if you run around the race track hammering the motor at 6000 RPM's for 1/2 hour, the oil temp will soar, while the coolant temp rises very minimal. GM specs synthetic oil in the vette so they could forget the oil cooler... but as stated above, alot of GM cars have oil to coolant coolers.
>>We could probably offer one but I never really understood the need. If you lower the engine coolant from say, 210 to 180, with a HP radiator, aren't you cooling the engine oil too? GM never thought an oil cooler was necessary. <<
common misconception. oil temp is NOT related to coolant temp. oil temp is directly related to RPM's. if you run around the race track hammering the motor at 6000 RPM's for 1/2 hour, the oil temp will soar, while the coolant temp rises very minimal. GM specs synthetic oil in the vette so they could forget the oil cooler... but as stated above, alot of GM cars have oil to coolant coolers.
Actually you guys are both right. If you replace the stock 195 degree thermostat with a 160 oil temps fall dramatically. So yes, to an extent if you keep the coolant temps lower your oil temps are lower as well. However as you said if you elevate the RPM's the oil temp will go up.
That's why I'm interested in something with an oil cooler built in. For 99% of my driving I'm never worried about my oil temps, but if I ever did decided to make an extended high RPM run I would like to have one less thing to worry about.
[QUOTEWill this hold more coolant vs. the stock system? Wouldn't that add to cooling if it did?[/QUOTE]
Absolutely! I'm going to guess somewhere between 3/4-1 gallon. This does also help but it's not the real solution. It's all about "tube to fin" contact surface. The more coolant tube surface in contact with fin, the more cooling you have.
As far as the oil coolers go, if you want it, I'll do it. As long as your willing to cut a few holes in the plastic, it's ok with me. I just like to start with a model that is a true "direct fit". Everyone says direct fit, but nobody really does it. So why would anybody believe me? I'm going to prove it, just hang in there.
Absolutely! I'm going to guess somewhere between 3/4-1 gallon. This does also help but it's not the real solution. It's all about "tube to fin" contact surface. The more coolant tube surface in contact with fin, the more cooling you have.
As far as the oil coolers go, if you want it, I'll do it. As long as your willing to cut a few holes in the plastic, it's ok with me. I just like to start with a model that is a true "direct fit". Everyone says direct fit, but nobody really does it. So why would anybody believe me? I'm going to prove it, just hang in there.









