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I am gettin a noise from the right rear wheel. I beleive it is a wheel bearing. I jacked the car up and the right wheel has a little slop or slight wiggle. The left rear is firm. Would I be correct?. If so, how hard is it to change. As simple as any other car?
Run a search. There have been a number of responses to this question and some have the details. It's not hard to do. You'll find a thread somewhere in the forum covering it. You do have to change the whole hub. It somes as a sealed unit.
Yes, the hub is a sealed unit and is replaced not serviced. You will need some special tools to accomplish the swap - a 36mm socket (I think, check your manual) for the large nut on the hub and a #50 torx socket (again, double-check the manual for size) to remove the three bolts from the back of the assembly. Not too bad of a job, however you may need to drop the half shaft to get a good grip on those bolts. A good time to check the "U" joints, also. Did the DS last year and now my PS is a little loose. Another winter project.
I also did my DS rear a few months ago, without having to remove the halfshaft. With the car on jack stands and all the suspension linkage in the way, it was hard to get to leverage on the ratchet to break the torx bolts loose. Soaking the bolts ahead of time with a good rust penetrant makes the job go easier. You'll also need a torque wrench that can go to at least 175 ft-lbs to get the spindle nut back on to the correct value. The factory spec is 164 ft-lbs, but there's a lot of debate about the virtues of going higher. Do a search if you're interested in the details.
Pepboys sells these units with a warranty for $140. Most of them are the same brand as ACDelco, so don't let a dealer doink you for it. I've done both of mine and it isn't too hard, but it can be.
You might be able to do it without dropping the half shaft, but heck why not change the u-joints while you are at it? Makes it MUCH easier to get to the torx bolts and if the bearing is bad the u-joints won't be far behind. Besides they are only about $9 each.
Have my left side apart right now. Swapped the u-joints and doing a clean-up and reassembly tomorrow morning.
I dropped the bottom dog bone, shock and spring. Left everything else connected.
I just picked up my hub assembly from pep boys. It has a gear on the back side, is this right. Does the half shaft drive this gear. I am abought to start and want to make sure they gave me the right one
I just picked up my hub assembly from pep boys. It has a gear on the back side, is this right. Does the half shaft drive this gear. I am abought to start and want to make sure they gave me the right one
Mine had no gear,just a spline in the bore.
What does this gear look like ?
Whell, pepboys missed the part number by one didget. I had to drive back 40 miles to retun the part for the right one. Went to dealer to get bulb 882 for dash and they quoted my 28.00 each :lolg: So i went to Kragen were they were suppose to be 8.00 but they gave them to me for 0.33 each :) There mistake, So the day was not a total loss
1) If your rear wheel bearing is tight it may not be the bearing but the U-joint. Usually a bad U-joint clicks at slow speed.
2) You can replace the rear bearing on jack stands without removing anything. Rotate the axle to get access to each Torx bolt. Use a Torx socket on a 3/8" drive with 3/8" extensions and a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Make SURE the torx bolts are clean and the socket is fully seated.
3) If you can't get the 36mm nut off the axle shaft you're screwed. Its cold welded itself in place, not uncommon. If thats the case your going to have to Dremel the nut off to remove the axle which means a new axle. Use a long breaker bar and extension. If it is hard to turn with a long braker bar extension, get out the Dremel. If it comes off easy the bearing is shot.
4) The PEP boys bearings are make by Chicago Rawhide (SKF bearing) and not the same as Delco units. They are a much better value than the GM ones as they have a limited lifetime warranty and cost half as much. :hurray: :hurray:
Started hearing a click while shifting into drive and reverse after two days. Shoul I re-torque the bolts or do you think its the u joints in the half shaft. They seem to be tight