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Okay guys heres the deal, New A/C compressor Connector, New EGR Silonoid Connector, New TPS Connector, New IAC's, New Tv/Kickdown Cable and a New Hood release cable. The IAC's are working good, and The tps is set to the specs give to me in the following post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=640524
It states that it should be .54 for stock and .67 for performance or really close to that. We set it at .60 and still get a Code 22. Whats going on here?
Also we found that the intake is not setted very well and is sucking air along the back side of the intake. Will this cause this code to happenas well?
We are going to fix the intake this weekend and I'm wondering what else is there that we need to look for because this is getting old very fast. :mad
Thanks now for all the help that I'm going to receive. :hurray:
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (jennykayes84vette)
Remember that the TPS base voltage must be set at base idle of 450rpm (or close to that). Otherwise the TPS value at normal idle will be too low and the ECM will throw that code 22.
Check out my site (link in my sig below) for my method of setting base idle and TPS values.
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (65Z01)
Remember that the TPS base voltage must be set at base idle of 450rpm (or close to that). Otherwise the TPS value at normal idle will be too low and the ECM will throw that code 22.
Check out my site (link in my sig below) for my method of setting base idle and TPS values.
I believe yours was the site that I got the settings off of. By base idle I am assuming that you mean adjust your idle to be set to 450 rpms on the tach correct? Is that with or with out the a/c on? I think my idle is set about about 550 - 600 when the car is running. Also (forgive me for I am losing it) do I do the TPS base voltage with the car running at idle or do I set the Idle first then turn the car off and check. I know stupid question. Thanks!!
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (jennykayes84vette)
When adjusting to base idle the IAC pintel needs to be fully extended; your air leak may be interfering with getting RPM down low enough. You should probably have the A/C off as it would make it very hard to get it to idle at 450rpm.
Try to get it to idle at 450rpm, shut off the enigne and tweak the TPS around the upper screw to get .65 Vdc or so. Then tweak the TPS around the lower screw to get max reading; recheck the base reading and repeat tweaks till you have .65Vdc at the low end and the max on the top.
I believe that at normal idle (600-700rpm) my TPS reading is around .74Vdc while the value at 450rpm is about .65Vdc.
I think you need to fix that air leak first and then reset base idle and TPS values.
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (jennykayes84vette)
Setting the TPS at base idle won't effect it. Changing the base idle does because you move the throttle blade. You reset the TPS position after everything is hooked back up so if you haven't monkeyed with the base idle it's not an issue. A code 22 means the ECM isn't getting a signal from the TPS or it's incredibly below what it should be. You need to check the continuity of the 5 volt reference and return signal wires from the ECM to the TPS and from the TPS back to the ECM. Check ECM connections too. You also need to check the ground. Sometimes you can verify the ground by opening and closing the throttle and making sure that the voltage increases and decreases smoothly. Unfortunately, with an older system, you may have an intermittent which is only going to be apparent when you hit a bump while driving the car -you won't be able to reproduce it in the driveway or your garage. Best to check the wiring and if it's good, the ECM may have gone south. Until resolved, stick with the stock setting (.67 is pretty much folklore anyway) so that you don't create any other problems.
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (SunCr)
Setting the TPS at base idle won't effect it. Changing the base idle does because you move the throttle blade. You reset the TPS position after everything is hooked back up so if you haven't monkeyed with the base idle it's not an issue. A code 22 means the ECM isn't getting a signal from the TPS or it's incredibly below what it should be. You need to check the continuity of the 5 volt reference and return signal wires from the ECM to the TPS and from the TPS back to the ECM. Check ECM connections too. You also need to check the ground. Sometimes you can verify the ground by opening and closing the throttle and making sure that the voltage increases and decreases smoothly. Unfortunately, with an older system, you may have an intermittent which is only going to be apparent when you hit a bump while driving the car -you won't be able to reproduce it in the driveway or your garage. Best to check the wiring and if it's good, the ECM may have gone south. Until resolved, stick with the stock setting (.67 is pretty much folklore anyway) so that you don't create any other problems.
The ECM seems to be coding correctly, I have done things like disconnect the O2 sensor and it codes, The coolant sensor and it codes, as far as Voltage increase it does it nice and smooth moves with the throttle like they are linked (hehe) My idle is at 550-600 maybe alittle higher at times. It has a surge in it which we know is caused by the intake manifold leak. We are fixing that on Saturday in between the OU football game and the Busch race. As far is getting a code it codes as soon as I fire the car off it codes 22 "tps voltage low." I'll check the ECM connectors but to me would the ECM code correctly if it is bad and the connector isn't pluged in good.
Re: Code 22 still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Whats the deal (jennykayes84vette)
Since the connector and TPS are new, you need to check the voltage at the ECM. For a crossfire, the signal wire - dark blue - should be at Pin 5 in the black connector. The reference wire - gray - should be at Pin 11 in the white connector. Ground is shared with the coolant temp sensor at Pin 11, Black Connector. It's not getting a coolant temp code, but that doesn't mean there isn't something amiss in a splice somewhere. Check the blue wire first - should be at whatever you set TPS at (.6?) If it's less than that (like below .2), you have a wiring problem. If it's there, and the ECM is spitting a 22, it's either in the connector or the ECM is amiss. You can also verify the reference - 5 volts on the gray wire at the ECM and at the TPS and then verify the integrity of the blue wire by jumpering the gray to the blue at the TPS harness and reading the voltage of the blue wire at the ECM. With it jumpered, you should get the reference voltage. If not, the blue wire is opened or shorting to ground somewhere. Again if the voltages are all good, probably a bum ECM or you might try taking an eraser to the male part of the connector or giving it a squirt with some fast drying electrical contact cleaner (not the ECM half - all power removed of course).