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I used stock ones but ground down the base of bolt then painted them. Also if you haven't already done it your are going to have to grind the supports for the ac and alt so they clear also. My Slp header kit used allen head bolts that were longer than stock that would tighten down the supports against the header flange. You are probably going to have to grind the oil dipstick tab where bolt goes through also to clear header tube.
I had a similiar problem with my TPIS headers. First, I grinded my bolt head to a circle and it seemed to work well for several years. Then when I built my 383 I used 12 point bolts from ARP with there special washers to mount them. They look better then the grinded ones. Just email me and ill send you a photo of the bolts I used with the washers.
I used stock ones but ground down the base of bolt then painted them. Also if you haven't already done it your are going to have to grind the supports for the ac and alt so they clear also. My Slp header kit used allen head bolts that were longer than stock that would tighten down the supports against the header flange. You are probably going to have to grind the oil dipstick tab where bolt goes through also to clear header tube.
Do you have a picture of the ground down a/c & alt brackets?
Man this is a big pain in the ****! I haven't been able to work on it because i hurt my neck pretty bad laying on the the garage floor for hours.
Hi Brian, Are those Hooker Shorties? If so that is what I have and can help you out. First of all, do you have a good fastener shop around? What makes this a good clean install is socket head S/S bolts. These allow you to use an allen wrench and better yet, a hex socket so you can use a torque wrench. For the flange with no standoffs, I used 1" bolts. For the standoffs I measured at the standoff (and flange thickness) and depth of the bolt hole in the head plus the thickness of either brackets or dip stick bracket. This gave me the length of the bolt required. Also figure in flat washers (S/S). Have you figured out how to attach the AIR pipe yet? I had to cut out 1" and weld it back together (had it done at a precission welding shop). I still don't have a host for pictures that works or I'd post them. If you need pics, I'll have to e-mail them.
Hi Brian, Are those Hooker Shorties? If so that is what I have and can help you out. First of all, do you have a good fastener shop around? What makes this a good clean install is socket head S/S bolts. These allow you to use an allen wrench and better yet, a hex socket so you can use a torque wrench. For the flange with no standoffs, I used 1" bolts. For the standoffs I measured at the standoff (and flange thickness) and depth of the bolt hole in the head plus the thickness of either brackets or dip stick bracket. This gave me the length of the bolt required. Also figure in flat washers (S/S). Have you figured out how to attach the AIR pipe yet? I had to cut out 1" and weld it back together (had it done at a precission welding shop). I still don't have a host for pictures that works or I'd post them. If you need pics, I'll have to e-mail them.
yes, they are hooker shorties. Thanks for the tips. I have 3/4" stainless bolts on right now - but i think i'm going to order 1" stainless to use in their place. I haven't done anyhting with the air pipe yet except take out the bolt at the back of the header - so I'll probably just leave that off and bend the pipe a bit to avoid cutting it up.
I was able to find an allen socket bolt (i think is what you'd call it) but i got one that was too long so i may either dremel off a little bit of it or I get to go back to the hardware store again (i think they are about to memorize my name and credit card number there)
The 1" bolts allow you to use the nice shiney S/S washers you got with the 3/4" header bolts. If the sun comes out I'll be able to take some pics for you. I'm still learning how to use this digital camera, the instruction book is bigger than the camera! :eek:
Are your headers coated or painted? I hope they are coated.
The 1" bolts allow you to use the nice shiney S/S washers you got with the 3/4" header bolts. If the sun comes out I'll be able to take some pics for you. I'm still learning how to use this digital camera, the instruction book is bigger than the camera! :eek:
Are your headers coated or painted? I hope they are coated.
[Modified by Strick, 11:01 AM 9/12/2003]
I'm really not sure if they are coated or not - it looks like they are but it is wearing off. I'm not really worried about that though. I MAY go get them re-coated but I have to find a place to do that. I'm going to call around to some exhaust shops later to see what I can find out.
I have the 3/4" with washer on there right now. That gets about 3-4 threads into the head - but I'm guessing that's not enough to be safe, so I'm going to order a set of 1" SS.
I just got my long tubes from exotic muscle along with the allen headed bolts. I will be putting them on this weekend and will find out how these bolts work but you might want to visit their web site http://www.exoticmuscle.com. The bolts are expensive though $50.00 a set. but they really look nice.
I used stock ones but ground down the base of bolt then painted them. Also if you haven't already done it your are going to have to grind the supports for the ac and alt so they clear also. My Slp header kit used allen head bolts that were longer than stock that would tighten down the supports against the header flange. You are probably going to have to grind the oil dipstick tab where bolt goes through also to clear header tube.
I just put SLP's on and I did the exact same things. The EGR tube, I heated it up to cherry red with a MAPP gas torch and bent it over a piece of fire wood. Got it first time. Good Luck
I'm really not sure if they are coated or not - it looks like they are but it is wearing off. I'm not really worried about that though. I MAY go get them re-coated but I have to find a place to do that. I'm going to call around to some exhaust shops later to see what I can find out.
I have the 3/4" with washer on there right now. That gets about 3-4 threads into the head - but I'm guessing that's not enough to be safe, so I'm going to order a set of 1" SS.
[Modified by GlockLT4, 10:20 AM 9/12/2003]
The place that I used is Jet Hot. They have a "Sterling" coating that is almost chrome. They make your engine compartment clean and reduces the heat under the hood. They're easy to find on the internet. :chevy
You'll be happier with the 1" S/S. What gaskets are you using?
I'm using a Mr. Gasket (white) gasket. Not copper.
BTW, i called Holley (makers of hooker) and they are shipping out a bolt kit to me for FREE!!! :cheers: :cheers: Too bad it has to come from Tijuana Mexico and will take 2 weeks probably :(. In the mean time I guess I'll get a set of ARP 1" SS 12 angle bolts and get them on as much as I can .. I may grind down the stock bolts just to see if I can get them to fit that way, and change out the bolts when I eventually get the ones from Hooker.
Hey Tom,
Look at the good clearance Glock has between header pipe and the fuel lines. My JBA's were so close you couldn't put your index finger between the two. :rolleyes:
Hey Tom,
Look at the good clearance Glock has between header pipe and the fuel lines. My JBA's were so close you couldn't put your index finger between the two. :rolleyes:
I'm sure my luck will turn to worse when i get to the driver's side ... EVENTUALLY....