I started this odyssey trying to fix my electrical problems. The car was running fine(for a 130K miler), but the voltage dropped too low(11.5V) at idle in drive. The car has withstood an underhood fire and I finally had a little money to repair the obviously burned and melted wires and connectors. I replaced the fuel pump relay and connector. The car still ran afterwords. An electrical shop told me they would have to remove the distributor to find the shorted wiring that caused the fans to be on the time(when the ignition is on). I decided to see if I could find it myself so I took out the distributor. At that time, I replaced the module inside the distributor and the wiring that connects the distributor to the ECM. I didn't crank the engine while I had the distributor out. I replaced the Coolant sensor connector and all 3 A/C connectors. I didn't find any faulty wires behind the distributor but I did check to see if the cooling fan still ran all the time and I found it did not. Encouraged, I put everything back together and now it won't start. I know I put the distributor back in exactly the same place as before. I have since double checked the timing using a compression gauge and the mark on the crank pulley. I hooked up a timing light to #1 wire and I get a bright light every second or so. I watch the injectors to make sure I'm getting fuel and I'm getting lots(maybe too much, maybe not). I don't have the AIR pump electrical connectors connected but I wouldn't think that would be a problem.

I have the TACH and BAT connectors connected, I'm getting air, fuel, and spark. AAARRRGGGHHH!!!!!:cuss :cuss

Should I check for codes? I haven't explored that at all yet.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I will be $$$ to donuts, the distributor is not in correctly.

 

Then spark is not occurring at the correct time. Aim the timing light at your timing plate while cranking and see what the timing is.

 

I finally got around to checking out the timing. I checked the timing with a timing light both with and without the ECM connected and it's right where it should be according to the manual. The fuel injectors have been replaced(two years ago). Sometimes I get lots of fuel when I try to crank, sometimes I get almost none. Anymore thoughts :confused: :confused:

 

Well, if all else fails, find TDC and pull the distrib cap off and see if it's pointing to the #1 position.
I'd go with the distributor being the culprit, if youre getting gas and spark, you should get
something. Sounds like a good one, we feel your pain....

 

Oops...I was referring too cylinder one in that last post... :rolleyes:

 

I have checked the position of TDC using a compression gauge. As the pressure just began to increase, I stopped cranking the engine and manually rotated the crank to line up with the timing mark. I also took the valve cover off and made sure both valves were close(they were). I popped off the distributor cap and, sure enough, the rotor was lined up with #1 spark plug wire. After I completed this check, I used the timing light and made sure I got something that made sense. I got 6 degrees BTDC without the ECM connected.

This one's got me stumped. Please help! I would hate to tow it away to a {*GAsP*} dealer.

TIA

 

Have you pulled the plugs?
If your timing is corect and you have good spark then mabey your either flooding or your plugs have fouled. If you havent already done so pull the plugs and see what they look like.

 

I guess it's time to put the parts back the way they were then and go from there.
One question though, did this module require a special compound be applied to it
for installation? Usually comes with a tube of the stuff. I dont know, but maybe it
could be an issue...

 

"fuel when I try to crank, sometimes I get almost none. Anymore thoughts"

Always go the free route.. Is is out of fuel? It is possible with all the problems, fire etc. Don't trust the fuel gage; mine misses at (70 miles to empty), and runs out at 65-- the gauge shows one quarter tank. Just a suggestion.
Good luck.