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It's me again... finally got over all the hurdles of installing software, getting the programmer to read the physically damaged memcal which was soldered to fix the problem. I made all the adjustments on CATS. Everything is going good... Did a blank check.... checked blank... went to program it... it started to program and 15 secs later it says.... "DEVICE WAS NOT PROGRAMMED".
WTF?? Any ideas guys? Greg....lol?
Ok, gonna do that. Here is what I was doing.....
Erase chip, open the sofware, select device, put the chip in the ZIF, move device, verify device, blank check, load buffer, program.
Tried what you said Greg. Still DID NOT PROGRAM?? Why? I have no programs open other than the software, i did a blank check, it said device is erased, i loaded the buffer with my bin, hit program device. 10secs later it says device not programmed. BUT.... it's not blank. WTF could be going on?
the sticker over the window on the memcal says AUJP Mod 1. Somone wrote that by hand on a Sticker.... I got this thing a while ago from a guy. mean anything?? For poopies and grins i put the chip anyway in the car, started it up.... idled high as hell and Engine light was on. Must of been limp mode.
I really need to get this programmed b/c now i don't have a car.
is this the same memcal that you resoldered.... ??? If so have you checked continuity on all 28 pins of the eeprom through the bottom of the memcal... also i have seen soldered memcals have 2 legs touching each other causing issues.........
Putting the whole thing in a UV eraser for about 30mins. Model # on the chip.... The memcal itself has written below the erasing window....
014
045915
B9937AB
Make any sense out of that? Is there a time or procedure for erasing. I"m just sticking it in there for 30mins with the window facing up toward the light bulb. Pop it out.... pop it in the ZIF. Now i'm really screwed. no car.
That's what i was thinking.... BUT, I extracted the info fine. I did a brief continuity check again.... but i'll do it one more time. Either way i think this Chip has been causing all my headaches. I took this guy a NEW GM chip, and wanted "that one" redone... he gave me some old piece of poopie, with black RTV looking stuff all over the boards and painted the cover gold.
shouldnt take 30 mins to erase just more like 10.......
I could send you a brand new 27c256 eeprom but you prob wouldnt get it until monday.. and that would also mean an unsolder resolder job......
I have always used memcal adapters from craig moates...... the few times i have used resoldered chips i have always had some headaches and they have always been with either lack of continuity or pins of the chip having shorted together
Also i am not an Electrical engineer but i bet that different pins are involved between reading and writing.... you said you had a bad connection that prevented you originally from getting a good read.. you might have another bad connection that is preventing a valid write
I'm on to something. I had it in the UV for about 10Mins, popped it in the ZIF, did a blank check.... checked blank.... did it again... checked NOT BLANK!! did this a few times and it came out blank...but if i held the Prom to the left or put some pressure on it.. it would come out with info.. so i have a contact problem!!! I'm gonna beat the poopie out this guy i got the PROM from.
that is the correct voltage for the 27c256.... can you read the part# on the chip... it could be that the guys used an older style 27256 prom which could require higher voltages
glad you found the connection problem........ i would make sure that you get them all solid.. cars tend to bounce........ that could be bad bad bad in the long run
well i belive the voltage for the 27c256 is 12.5 and the 27256 styles are 25volts it would be good if you could get the part number off the chip...
i think your software is a newer version of mine.. but on mine when you select the device from the list it picks the voltage for you... you might try picking the 27256 device and see what voltage that sets... however i do believe that you can kill eeproms by using to much voltage.... i guess if i were you and you cant get the part number from the chip i would try and set the device to one of the higer voltage from the device list.. i think the 27256 uses 25v.... since you are not having any success as it is.......... i would try the higher voltage
GOT IT!!! I called the guy back who did the shady programming for me. Well, technically i shouldn't of even been able to "read" it b/c it's "copyright". Sneaky bastard. I brought him a GM Dealer Virgin PROM and i leave with some piece of shiiiitttt horsed out prom. He's gonna fix this.