I am wanting to replace my transmission filter. I have never done this before, so I thought I would ask the experts.

1. How much transmission fluid will come out and how much should I put in when I am done.

2. What type of transmission fluid should I get?

3. What type of gasket and filter should I get?

4. Should I be looking for anything special while I have the pan off?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

 

1. I forget because i didnt measure, it was quite a bit. Maybe 7-9qts?s
2. A synthetic would be best.
3. So long as its for a 700r4, i dont know if it matters.
4. Look for alot of metal shavings in the pan, it will look like silver specs. Hopefully there wont be any.

 

There are two gaskets for the 700R4 depending on the design of the pan. Both are included in the OEM kit with instructions on how to tell which one to use.

 

Just did mine on Sat.
1 - about 5 quarts and about the same going back in. Start with 4 and check the dip stick, then fill to the line after shifting through all the gears
2 - I would assume you have high mileage. When I asked the same question, the responses were to stick with type 3, not the synthetic. To many chances to leak around the seals. Made sense to me.
3 - Filter and gasket is whatever you parts store has.
4 - When you pull the filter, chance are the "o" ring seal on the end of the spout on the filter will remain in the trans. You need to pull the old one out before you install the new filter.

When draining the pan, loosen and remove the bolts in one corner only. Then start to loosen the bolts on either side of the removed bolts until the pan starts to drip. This is the really messy part. Continue to loosen the bolts in sucsession until you have the one last bolt on the opposite corner remaing, loose but not out. By then most of the ATF will have drained from the pan. Hold the pan up in position and remove the last bolt. Carefully drop the pan, holding it flat until you can dump in your used oil container.
In the bottom of the pan is a magnet (about 2" square) There will be some metal powder on it. Depending on how much, and how much is in the bottom of the pan may determine if a rebuild is in your future. Clean the pan and replace the magnet back in the marked area of the pan.
I use a little blue RTV on the pan only before I put the gasket on it.
When you replace the bolts, do not over torque them as the gasket will squish out and leak all over.
Hope this helps.
Subman

 

:iagree: ...I did use synthetic. Went to Mobil1 ATF and will be doing it again next year as well. I used Fram kit from Autozone. Watch for the O-ring. Make sure as mentioned you don't over torque the bolts or you will get a leak. No leaks for me.
I used 5 qts or there abouts. Fine dusty mud is normal, metal particals are not and indicates an issue.

 

Just did mine on Sat too, wanted to pass this along... The new filter o-ring has to be totally
seated in the tranny or the pan wont bolt up... This kind of bit me when I did mine and
I had to seat it by lightly tapping with a 9/16 socket and extension. I emphasize "lightly"
tapping. Thats if your o-rings dont come out and install easily. BTW my gasket was
rubber (NAPA kit) and the holes were such that I could thread all the bolts into
the gasket which made the install a snap.. And I agree, do not over torque!

HTH

 

See your friendly Chevy dealer and buy the OEM kit. I am serious. All aftermarket kits I looked at are inferior, INCLUDING the NAPA kit. The filter configuration is different, often the oil inlet opening in the filter is in the wrong place (i.e. NAPA kit where the inlet is on top of the filter and not on the bottom like in the OEM kit). Honestly in some of these items I would stick ONLY with OEM. Besides, the OEM Chevy kit at the dealer was $29.95 same price NAPA wanted for their POS.

have a look at the TCI site and the transmission temp/life expectancy chart here.
http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tra...expectancy.htm

Here is what they say:
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"How hot is too hot? The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175 and 225F. At approximately 240 F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260 F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295 F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315 F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 2000 miles if subjected to 300 F+ heat."
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TRANNY OIL CHANGE MADE EASY:
It is however very easy to change the tranny fluid on the C4. The ATF cooler line on the top of the right hand side radiator tank is the hot oil coming from the tranny. If you want to change the oil, just disconnect it and slip a hose over the line. There is plenty of space to do this. Route that hose into a bucket with quart markings and start the car. Make sure to fasten the hose somehow to the bucket so it doesn't slip out when the oil begins to flow. Pump the old oil into the bucket. I got about 7 quarts out that way. When the oil out of the hose begins to sputter, shut the car off. Now you can take the oil pan off if you need to change the ATF filter. When I did this, there was only about 1 cup of old fluid left in the pan. After changing the filter, refill the pan with the amount you removed (read your marking in the bucket. They are actually acurate enough). Do not disconnect the hose yet! You still want to pump another 3 to 5 quarts of the fresh ATF throught the tranny and push the rest of the old fluid out of the tranny and converter. After thats done, replenish what you pumped out and you're done.

This way you will replace over 95% of the entire tranny fluid fill and if you don't need to change the filter, you can do this in much less time than an engine oil change. One tip: Do it while you are on your ramps. More oil will pump out when the car is on an incline.




[Modified by Alex D, 8:20 AM 10/8/2003]

 

Quote:
________________________________________ ___________________

often the oil inlet opening in the filter is in the wrong place (i.e. NAPA kit where the inlet is on top of the filter and not on the bottom like in the OEM kit
________________________________________ ___________________

NAPA filter inlet was on the bottom and the price was half the OEM kit.
Furthermore, I noticed an improvement in operation after the
change. I think NAPA makes decent stuff and would think twice
if I were buying the kit from an Autozone or Pep Boys....

 

Thanks Guys!

A Lot of inromation here, I really appreciate it!

 

Use royal Purple Tranny fluid,, it's fully synthetic and its the best on the market,,, its pricy, but it going in a vette.........You may have to order it online if you cant find someone that stocks it.
http://www.royalpurple.com

:steering:

 

Isn't it a bad idea to run your tranny with such a small amount of fluid in it?? :eek:

 

Not really a problem I have done it many times without a hitch. You are really not running the tranny without oil. The car is in park. No clutches are engaged. You are also not running without oil since you shut the car off when it is starting to suck air. then after that the pan is refilled and the fresh oil is pushing out the old. The tranny really never runs without oil. No problem for the pump since it has to suck oil back up into it on every start of the engine after the ATF drained from the pump back into the pan upon shut down.

[Modified by Alex D, 9:46 PM 10/8/2003]