i should be starting my new engine on fri and wondered if there is some kind of fuel injection purging or priming procedure that i should know about?

is there a procedure for adjusting the throttle linkage too? my car is equipped with the ASR.

i already know i will probably have to adjust the IAC and the TPS...

i just hope this baby will crank up and run.

thanks guys!!

 

turn the ignition on and off about 10 times every 5 seconds or so to prime the system because the pump only run for a few seconds every time you start the car. :chevy


[Modified by clem zahrobsky, 11:07 PM 10/15/2003]

 

yeah, i have a fuel pressure gauge, i guess it's "primed" once it gets up to pressure...

how about the throttle cable? anybody know the procedure for adjustment?

 

Press on the lock on the side of the cable. Push cable all the way to to the rear.

Get in Vette.
Make sure carpet isn't under the juice pedal.
Press pedal ALLLL the way to the floor.

Some folks will just grab the TB cam and open the TB all the way.

TV Cable is now adjusted.

Yep, just that easy.

You can play with it a little front-to-rear from this point to affect the shift points only very slightly and the shift firmness slightly.

It wasn't DESIGNED to be an adjustment for either one of these parameters.

It's purpose is to set the base line pressure and to be able to control the line pressure to follow the throttle opening/closing.

It is NOT a shiftdown cable like the old transmissions had.

 

Hey Sonny, thanks for the IM.

As promised here is the scoop:

At the throttle body end, there is a 'thingy" just behind the throttle body cam where the TV cable comes through a bracket.
There is a little tab on the 'thingy" at the end of the TV cable. You push that in to release pressure on the TV cable SHEATH.That is called the TV cable "lock" in the manuals if I recall.
Anyway it releases the sheath (sp) and you can move the TV cable sheath (actually the whole TC cable) back and forth.
This is how it's "adjusted".
There is actually ONLY ONE CORRECT position for it and that is the one that this procedure will give you.
Move the TV cable sheath (whole cable) as far to the rear as it will go..don't pull it out of the "lock" mechanism. Release the lock you have been pressing on.....
Now this is the procedure that really "adjust" next:
Press the accelerator ALL the WAY to the floor.
The "lock" mechanism is a rachet type device that will allow the TV cable to slide FORWARD on its on. With the accelerator ALL the way to the floor, it will rachet into position and adjust itself to make up the nuances in your cars mounting bracket position, cable lenght, tranny actuator bellcrank, etc.
That's it... it's easy as 123.
What's happening when I do this?
The TV cable is the adjustment for the 'base' line pressure or 'operating point reference' pressure for the trasnsmission.

Forward on the cable is LESS pressure. REARWARD is MORE pressure.
LESS pressure can cause soft shiftiing allowing the clutch plates to spin against each other for longer periods of time.
This heats the fluid and wears the facing material off the disc more than harder (faster) shifts.
So adjusting to the rear is the SAFE direstion..that's why the procedure calls for the cable to be pushed all the way to the rear at the start of the procedure.
To the front is the 'dangerous' direction... lower pressure...and the resultant consequences.
I will post this back on your thread so everybody else can see it... thanks for asking...

Jim

 

You have to wait 10 seconds between key cycles or the pump won't run for 3 seconds again. It usually takes me about 3 pump cycles to get it up to pressure the first time after the lines have been emptied.

 

well, i have a 6-speed, and i have the traction control garbage, so does this apply?
as it sits right now, the throttle cable is just a lil bit too tight... and i still need to put a spacer behind the throttle body so that i can hook up the vacuum lines (monoblade TB did not come with the vacuum "nipples" on the passengers side) and then it'll be even tighter... so i gotta know how to set the tension on the traction control/throttle cable (remember this is the drive-by-wire style). i hope there is enough adjustment in the ASR to allow for the extra room i need!
thanks guys!

 

How are we supposed to remember if you don't at least give us some basic info on what you're working on? *I* thought you were asking about the throttle activation cable, which it turns out you don't have. Others spent time writing about the auto trans TV cable adjustment. Excuse me. It's time to polish the haze off my crystal ball.

 

Huh? You suddenly bought a C5?

 

yikes, that response sounds kinda hostile... i hope mine didn't come across that way too.

that's why i specifically mentioned the ASR (aka traction control)... i'm pretty sure the ASR is drive by wire, i don't think there is a direct connection between the pedal and the throttle body. i said "remember" because i don't know how many years of C4's have ASR. i'm know it's not the majority. but the ASR has to be adjusted and i know it's a different procedure than with a normal throttle cable.

when i asked about adjusting the throttle cable, i didn't suspect that anybody would assume i was asking about the tranny cable or else i would have specified that i have a stick or would have made referrence to my sig... lots of info there. sorry if it was misleading.

so... anybody know how to adjust the ASR/throttle cable? anybody know how much adjustment there is in it? i imagine the spacer that i will put in between the throttle body and the intake is similar to if someone has put a NOS spacer there. are there any problems with throttle cable length when putting in a spacer on a car equipped with ASR?

 

anybody know what year this car is? At this point...anybody, CARE???

Buy the book!
(now, THAT'S hostile!)

 

AND, you should be greatfull that your TB doesnt have those vacume line nipples. One is a inlet for hot antifreeze (which you should have disconnected by now), and the other is a crankcase 'vent' that can be prone to sucking up oil into your intake if you have a modded cam and valvetrain. It can be replaced (and will be more effective) with a traditional open element crankcase breather.

 

wow, do i know you CFI? cuz you sure are an angry person for somebody that i've never even had the opportunity to REALLY **** off before. and you would think a senior member with over 2000 posts would know how to check the sig, i mean, it's so easy, and that's what i do when i am looking for more info. if you wish to share any more of your rectal output, i would appreciate it if you would just send it to me directly in an IM to avoid stinking this post up any further. thanks.

anyway, back to the well intentioned majority... hey black, there's actually 3 nipples on stock TB... but, i already bypassed the coolant (BTW, that whole coolant thing is eliminated on the AS&M monoblade TB). the nipple that i do need is the one for the sensor on the passenger side of the intake ( i would just split it off of some other vacuum line, but i think it needs to be at the mouth of the intake). the one for the crankcase vent may go bye-bye and be replaced with the cannister style vent.

 

Hey Sonny,

Just ignore some of these guys here. They are worse than women sometime. Guess it's just their 'time of the month'.

Sorry I gave you ALL the wrong scoop... all that garbage I gave you was for an AUTOMATIC transmission Vette and adjusting the THROTTLE VALVE cable. I SHOULD have read your post more carefully. MY BAD.
Anyway I don't think I have a manual on your Vette so I can't go look this up for you.

Scorp is your best bet on this, I'm thinking. If he hasn't got the info he knows somebody that does.

Hopefully somebody else that's familiar with that year with a six speed will jump in here.

Again, sorry I gave you the wrong data.

Jim

 

i'm not worried about him... his type really is the minority around here.

thanks jim, and i appreciate everybody's time even if i didn't get the answer yet. i'm sure somebody will jump in that has experience with exactly what i am asking about.

 

And you'd think a senior member with over 900 posts would know how to display one. If you want help with a problem, don't make us chase around for your info.

I HAVE your solution, but I don't want to subject you to any more of my:

 

With 50k+ posts I nearly never check sigs. I have images/sigs/avatars everything turned off. If I wanted to see them, I'd have them turned on.

 

JFC... i'm just trying to get an answer to a question here guys... i didn't know that not including the year of my car was somehow a personal affront to you guys...

why don't you guys just stop responding to my post if you don't have anything to add.

 

Chill. All I'm saying is that a year is important and should be included. With the thousands of changes over the years it never shocks me to find even the most simple thing totally changed from one year to next. If a guy with a ZR1 said "Hey what wires should I use on my '90?" would he be very happy after we all gave him an MSD part # for an L98?

 

let it go, man, let it go...

i think i'll start a new post cuz this one has been pretty much killed.