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Since I've got the car up in the air working on headers, figured i'd change both oils. Anyone have a proper way of changing the tranny oil? I'm at 53k miles, so I figure it's a good time to give it a once over.
And i've read that BMW oil over GM oil is good ... agree with that?
I'm going to put the castrol stuff in there when I do mine. There are others who will chime in with better specifics then me, but the general consensus seems to be: bmw oil, large allen for 1/2 drive ratchet to remove plug (its on tight), new plug from dealer, some 3-4 ft of plastic hose with funnel to fill (route hose to engine compartment). BTW how is the other header coming along or are you still under the weather with the mono?
I'm going to put the castrol stuff in there when I do mine. There are others who will chime in with better specifics then me, but the general consensus seems to be: bmw oil, large allen for 1/2 drive ratchet to remove plug (its on tight), new plug from dealer, some 3-4 ft of plastic hose with funnel to fill (route hose to engine compartment). BTW how is the other header coming along or are you still under the weather with the mono?
Yeah, i need to get a large alan to use on the fill/drain holes. Good idea routing the hose through the engine compartment .. i was thinking you had to use a pump. I'll have to double check my manuals to see how much oil it holds.
I'm doing a lot better.. actually i think i'm back to 100%!! I'm going monday for a liver/spleen test to see if i can get back to exercise and all that. I'm definitely getting farther on the headers. last night worked on it for about 4 hours. Got the driver's side all done except for one bolt .. just have to get that one, then drill out the rusted bolt stuck in the cat flange ... and then bolt up both sides and put the catback back on. :cheers:
I used the GM oil and it made a difference in the feel of the tranny. I also used the plastic hose from the engine compartment (with a funnel) to fill it. The 17mm allen on a 1/2" breaker bar is a must. Now that I have the tools for this job, I'll do it more often.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Re: Changing manual tranny fluid... (GlockLT4)
The Helm Service Manual for our 94 LT1 has the drain plug (and fill plug) torque to be 36 lb. ft. and makes no mention of needing to replace the plug.
Per the ZFDOC web-site (http://www.zfdoc.com/faq.htm) the Castrol TWS 10W60 is the recommended alternative. Also noted was recommending changing the oil every 10K - 12K miles. I've seen elsewhere where the Castrol was liked better than the GM.
Another choice we're considering, which was noted in the ZR1 forum, is Red Line's MTL Synthetic Manual Transmission Lubricant (found it at Car Parts) (http://www.redlineoil.com/products.htm -- I really like their write-up).
We're changing our's this week, and running the tube through the engine compartment sounds like a good approach, so we'll be using it.
Thanks for the part number!! :cheers: And i don't know where i'm going to find a BMW dealer in Oklahoma, lol! I might have to wait until I get back to Dallas to find one.
Also, where can I get a 1/2" drive 17mm allen socket? Sears doesn't carry it.
My Sears doesn't sell a 17 mm allen, either. I flagged a MAC tool truck down and bought one from him. I wouldn't get to locked into the BMW fluid, as the GM fluid is what came in it and is still the primary oil used. I have 3k on mine and it still feels good. :cheers:
As far as getting a new plug, I was just re-stating what some others have mentioned in other threads. I think some people may have messed up their plugs removing them under the car on jack stands and not having enough room to get correct leverage on the nut. I believe it was said that they wished they didn't have to put the original plug back in and didn't have access to one in the middle of the job. I was not speaking from my own direct experience, just what iv'e read...
I found the 17mm at AutoZone (no sears nearby :( ) and used the BMW stuff. Wow what a difference. Got rid of some syncro problems in 3 and 4 (for the time being)
The manual does NOT say use Mobile 1 5W-30 engine oil. The oil used is 5W-30 but it is not engine oil. The additives are completely different between engine and transmission oil, so they are not compatible.
You should use only transmission oil recommeded by ZF.
The manual does NOT say use Mobile 1 5W-30 engine oil. The oil used is 5W-30 but it is not engine oil. The additives are completely different between engine and transmission oil, so they are not compatible.
You should use only transmission oil recommeded by ZF.
How can 10w60 and 5w30 both be correct for the same service conditions????
Isn't the Castrol 10W60 actually motor oil????
I still think there is something fishy about this situation??? Why would I choose one or the other?? Plus what is in the ZF6 that would be hurt by motor oil additives, I should check to be sure, but isn't Mobil1 used in the C5 tranny??
I have no answers, but still have a lot of questions as to why these are the only 2 products that can be used & on what basis I would choose one or the other of these 2.
The 10W60 is going to be a thicker oil. Some trannies prefer this over the thinner oil and it can help the syncros engage easier. I have a 5 speed in my Firebird that also likes the thicker gear oil. If I switch to a thinner weight I have problems shifting.
I doubt the ZF would be hurt by the additives in the motor oil but it will be hurt from the lack of additives to make a GL3 rated oil. Also, the C5s use a T56 which is a completely different animal compared to the ZF6. They may have designed it to use regular motor oil but ZF did not. The later T5s in the 3rd Gen F-bods used auto fluid as regular gear oil would degrade the internals (syncros I think). I would follow the manufacturer's reccomendations.
ZF also recomends auto tranny fluid that meets their spec. A while back I posted the spec # but cannot remember what it is. I doubt I will ever switch from the 10w60 tho.