What does it do? Whats the difference between a 1400 stall and a 2200 one?

Thanks :cheers:

 

The way I understand it is, the high the RPM TC, the longer you stay in your power band. There wont be as much "Bog" on your engine. For example I have a 2600 in mine, stock I believe it was a 1600, so going from 1600 rpm's from 1st to 2nd gear , mine shifts at 2600 from 1st to 2nd... and really snaps your head in the seat hard..... and so on and so forth.... I may be wrong, also. I am also pretty new at this.... I was alos told that going from the 1600 to the 2600, it would probably drop 3 to 4 10ths off a 1/4 mile time. Or more?

:cheers:

 

You can run a search on archived topics and find this quite frequently.

But a TC acts just like a clutch in a manual, a 1400rpm stall will not lock until ~1400rpm, at which point all the power of the engine is transmitted thru the driveline.
This allows you to get up to the torque peak of the engine quicker, allowing you to have harder takeoffs and youll be thrown back in your seat much more.

Only thing you need worry about when going to a higher stall, which is better to an extent, is the added heat in the transmission.

 

i wont go into how or why it stalls where it does
but a TC is basically there to keep your car from stalling. it "slips." kinda sorta.

think of it this way- in a manual you can disconnect the engine and trans at a stop (cluch in). otherwise if you aren't moving, niether is your engine.

well the TC acts as a clutch with relativly complex fluid movements. it allows the transmission to "slip" so your tires dont move and your enigne can keep runnign.

a higher stall does just that- stall higher- usally thanks to varried fin angles. it allows you to stall upto high rpms and launch from there. if your powerband starts at 4000 rpms like mine did, you dont want to launch at 2000rpms, stuggle up there and then start moving. just launch at 4000!

however i highly advise a steep set of gears with a high stall to tame it a bit. with shorter gears, the stall will feel like poo poo as you car will be (for example) going from 0-20mph instead of 0-12 mph off the line.

 

QUOTE--( however i highly advise a steep set of gears with a high stall to tame it a bit. with shorter gears, the stall will feel like poo poo as you car will be (for example) going from 0-20mph instead of 0-12 mph off the line.)---

WHAT RATIO GAER DO YOU RECCOMEND FO A4 STOCK VETTE ?

:seeya

 

depends- i really dont think i'm qualified to answer since i'm not even sure what gear ratios are available for vettes. also depends on the stall speed and a host of other factors.

since it doesn't seem like you are building a serious drag car-
something in the 3.75ish range sounds great. this is also assuming that the transmissions have the same 3.06:1 first gear.

if you have a steeper 1st gear- you wont need as much gear. if its shallower, you want more gear.

a 2200 stall- isn't anything id be concerned about though. in my opinion, 2800 is that magic line where gears are requred. aren't vettes stock at 2000?

 

The high stall converters just slip to a higher RPM before flashing. All torque converters slip and high stalls simply slip more until they reach the stall speed. After that, they should become more efficient and give you better power transfer than stock.

As for rear gear ratios, you can actually get away with a smaller gear ratio by using high stall converters. A larger gear multiplies torque and if you're stalling at a higher RPM ie. in the torque range, then you'll likely be spinning even worse than with a lower ratio. Try the high stall converter first, then do the larger gears if you're not satisfied.

Stay away from the cheap TC's, they're not very efficient and a waste of money. Also, the shop will want to know your mods so that they can match the stall speed to your CAM.

I'm getting a 3200 Street edge for my Impala from Edge Racing Converters. They are less expensive than a Precision Vigilante and perform better. However, they guarantee that it will have nearly stock street manners at low RPM. One guy said his wife hardly noticed the difference.

 

i disagree, IMHO- Vigis are the BEST converter out there bar none.
edge is just a more expensive no frills.

Vigi, then maybe a yank. I've seen or heard of everything blowing up. vigis are very efficent too.

another big advantage of a converter is the tq multipication

 

And it's your prerogative to say so, you paid for it! :D

However, I've heard of folks who bought Vigs that switched to an Edge that would never go back. I have no idea what you mean by no frills, they don't seem no frils to ppl who race them.

I guess the point I was trying to make is don't skimp, a Vig, Yank or Edge would be a good choice.


[Modified by MyX10sion, 1:02 PM 11/6/2003]

 

Thanks for all the info guys

As always great help

 

Well, in simpletons terms.... the car will come out of the hole harder.

It makes it more fun to drive :D 2400 is pretty ideal in my opinion for a street car.


[Modified by mn_vette, 7:36 PM 11/6/2003]

 

Depends on what year you have. If we're talking L98, then 3.07 is just fine, more gear is not required.
LT1 guys would greatly benefit from something lower, say 3.54 to 3.73 in the A4. Which of those two you pick depends on how much hwy driving you do, and whether you even care about mileage when you do so.

 

Damien89, the stall speed of a TC is the engine RPM at which the TC will no longer slip and, if the drive shaft were locked, would stall the engine.

You can approximate this by rolling along at low speed and popping the accelerator. Note the RPM to which the tach jumps before the vehicle begins to accelerate; this "flash RPM is very close to the stall RPM of the TC.

Now remember that your L98's torque/HP curve begins at some low power value at idle and rises to some maximum value at (relatively) high RPM. So, if your TC's stall (or flash) RPM is raised from say 1,400rpm to 2,200rpm you can launch your Vette at higher RPM which is higher up on the torque/HP curve. Starting from a higher point on the torque/HP curve results in a much harder launch resulting in quicker 1/4 mile times.

Also, if your are rolling along at say 10-15mph and stab the accelerator with a higher stall TC the engine will rev up immediately but the vehicle will lag a little till the TC's stall RPM is hit. The feeling this gives the driver is refered to as "loosness", compared with the feeling you have from driving with the stock TC.

So though a higher stall TC provides for a more powerful launch it also gives a feeling of "loosness" when compared with your stock TC. This is the trade off between performance and driving comfort.

I tend to prefer a "tighter" feel so went with a 2,000rpm TC. This provides for a harder launch yet retains most of the stock "tight" feeling.

 

honestly, you wont even feel a 2800 stall.
I had a 2400 behind a 383 and couldn't tell it wasn't stock- and mind you with a 383's torque, it was flashing much higher than 2400, around 2800.

Ive been in cars with higher stalls. 2800 is BARELY noticeable.

2800 + 3.73s (or if you have something close, leave it)
once you get into the 3200+ range- it just feels like your trans is slipping

 

Higher Stall = Better 60' times.

Vic