I'm back and running again !! Thanks.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 603
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
I'm back and running again !! Thanks.
Whew ! After a month of being down, with what started as a simple upgrade and fix-it project. The snowball effect started happening and almost squashed me. I wanted to upgrade my roller rockers and fix an oil leak, when one thing just lead to another. But thanks to this forum and its members, I am up and running again, and better than ever.
Here's what I did, ran into, troubled over, and fixed:
Switched from Crane Golds to Comp Pro Mags with guideplates, ARP 7/16 studs and Trick Flow pushrods. Getting the rockers adjusted and the valves lashed was a temporary challenge for a newbie like me. Until I got it right performance was poor, idle was bad, starting was hard and chatter was loud.
I had a drip drop oil leak from the front side of my motor and a quart a day leak from my pan area. Front side turned out to be that little nipple on the intake manifold just under the TB. Plugged it and capped the tube that came out of it. No prob now. The pan area leak was comming from my mechanical oil temp sender. Since all of our vitals are doubled by digital, I pluged it with a 1/2" marine drain plug. Had to use pipe thread and rtv to finally stop the leak. Now my garage floor is dry.
I ditched the emmissions tubes and EGR feed that come from the exhaust manifolds, as well as the electric air pump that pulls from them which is located under left headlamp area. I capped the EGR feed on the manifold with a TPiS billet block off plate, plugged the hose that ran from the electric air pump to the air box with a 3/4" pipe plug, and capped the exhaust manifold holes with a pair of 5/8" natural gas use plugs. The exhaust manifold plugs were the hard ones to find. 3 trips to Home Depot and one trip to Lowes.
I took the throttle body off, cleaned it good, replaced its gaskets and sprayed some intake cleaner into the manifold and toped it off with a TPiS billet cover plate. Of course, removal of the tb and its accessories sent the IAC and idle control adjustment nut out of whack. It would stall out and eventually wouldn't even start. Had to do some research here, pull the tb again, re-clean it and make sure I had the IAC set just right and adjusted the idle set scew. Starts and idles fine now.
I thought it would be a great time to replace the valvecovers when doing the RR's. Wrong. With an LT1/4 you have 2 aftermarket choices; MAD or Morroso. I didn't choose either. The traditional centerbolt chevy valvecovers I ordered did not fit. The baffles and bolt support webbing are in the way. I kept my stockers, only to disappoint a few potential buyers.
So, 1 month, $700, many beers and a few headaches latter, I'm all better and running strong. I never lost faith in the Vette and couldn't have gotten it running without you guys. Everything I ever need to know about the car is right here on our site and in the experience of it members.
Extra thanks goes out to ski_dwn_it, Scorp, Magoo, Vader, Vette92, Nathon Plemons, 96LT4, LaVidaLoca and Boxerdog and all of you who have helped me and many others like me. This forum rocks ! Thanks guys.
:cheers:
Here's what I did, ran into, troubled over, and fixed:
Switched from Crane Golds to Comp Pro Mags with guideplates, ARP 7/16 studs and Trick Flow pushrods. Getting the rockers adjusted and the valves lashed was a temporary challenge for a newbie like me. Until I got it right performance was poor, idle was bad, starting was hard and chatter was loud.
I had a drip drop oil leak from the front side of my motor and a quart a day leak from my pan area. Front side turned out to be that little nipple on the intake manifold just under the TB. Plugged it and capped the tube that came out of it. No prob now. The pan area leak was comming from my mechanical oil temp sender. Since all of our vitals are doubled by digital, I pluged it with a 1/2" marine drain plug. Had to use pipe thread and rtv to finally stop the leak. Now my garage floor is dry.
I ditched the emmissions tubes and EGR feed that come from the exhaust manifolds, as well as the electric air pump that pulls from them which is located under left headlamp area. I capped the EGR feed on the manifold with a TPiS billet block off plate, plugged the hose that ran from the electric air pump to the air box with a 3/4" pipe plug, and capped the exhaust manifold holes with a pair of 5/8" natural gas use plugs. The exhaust manifold plugs were the hard ones to find. 3 trips to Home Depot and one trip to Lowes.
I took the throttle body off, cleaned it good, replaced its gaskets and sprayed some intake cleaner into the manifold and toped it off with a TPiS billet cover plate. Of course, removal of the tb and its accessories sent the IAC and idle control adjustment nut out of whack. It would stall out and eventually wouldn't even start. Had to do some research here, pull the tb again, re-clean it and make sure I had the IAC set just right and adjusted the idle set scew. Starts and idles fine now.
I thought it would be a great time to replace the valvecovers when doing the RR's. Wrong. With an LT1/4 you have 2 aftermarket choices; MAD or Morroso. I didn't choose either. The traditional centerbolt chevy valvecovers I ordered did not fit. The baffles and bolt support webbing are in the way. I kept my stockers, only to disappoint a few potential buyers.
So, 1 month, $700, many beers and a few headaches latter, I'm all better and running strong. I never lost faith in the Vette and couldn't have gotten it running without you guys. Everything I ever need to know about the car is right here on our site and in the experience of it members.
Extra thanks goes out to ski_dwn_it, Scorp, Magoo, Vader, Vette92, Nathon Plemons, 96LT4, LaVidaLoca and Boxerdog and all of you who have helped me and many others like me. This forum rocks ! Thanks guys.
:cheers:
