[4+3]: Damage report.
I noticed your post on 5speeds.com.
I agree 100% with the admin over there. I rebuilt my 4+3 a few winters ago and bought my parts from Brian at SK Speed. The guy knows everything there is to know about Super T-10 transmissions and the unique 4+3 Corvette version.
One of the main reasons why I decided to rebuild my transmission was because it kept on popping out of 2nd on decel (kind of like you said). It then started to pop out of 3rd, so it was time to get it fixed. The problem was most annoying on the autocross track since I had to keep one hand on the stick.
Anyway, the part I replaced that I believe fixed my popping out of gear problem was the SYNCHRONIZER SLIDING SLEEVE. I think this is what it is called - it is the part that the shift fork goes into which connects the gear you want to the input shaft which then transfers the torque through to the countershaft gear (that's how I remember it anyway).
The wear on the sleeves was major - I replaced the forks while I was at it. They were worn as well. This is because I would hold the shifter on decel to prevent the pop-out and the fork would be held directly on the edge of the sleeve - metal on rotating metal.
Anyway, I have said enough. I hope it is not too late for you to have new sliding sleeves installed. Brian at SK Speed sells sleeve with a slightly different tooth pattern with prevents the pop-out.
I hope this is useful.
Jim
P.S. I spent $434.05 and I got at least this stuff (maybe more):
- two synchronizer sliding sleeves
- two shift forks
- Super T-10 rebuild kit (new spacers, needle bearnings, counter shaft, gaksets, synchronizers, more?)
- O/D gasket and filter
If your are going to cryo the unit do it before it is assembled. We do all of our heavy duty race differentials, and because you have different metals that have different expansion and shrink rates they need to be apart during the cryo (thermo cycling). Also every seal or rubber gasket will crack.
Yes, you can call Bob Reed at 300 below. I spent about $2500 with him last year. I built 4 World Challenge C5 Getrags and several Dana 44's and Dana 36's that get Cyro. The problem is that the temp gets to -300 degrees over a 24 hour period. I understand you are going to research what you are told, which is good on this forum before you do something since everyone is an expert here. However I am just letting you know a little about cryo but call 300 below. Just call him(Bob Reed), they are the experts in this field he will let you know.
[Modified by snaketr, 10:20 PM 11/30/2003]
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com
Snaketr, thanks for the info. I shall take it to heart.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
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I'll guess it wouldn't hurt, to freeze it w/o the seals. I believe they are pressed in from the outside.
As for seals it greatly depends upon the material they are composed of... The cryogenic process is a non-destructive one for almost all synthetic materials. The only thing the process will absolutely DESTROY is natural rubber; it literally turns it to powder. Most gaskets nowadays are neoprene or a similar composite material that is completely synthetic...The process will not effect them in the least, or at least we and other companies that perform this process have not seen any detrimental effect. Some composites actually gain considerable strength as a result of the process; among these are nylon, delrin, and teflon.
From: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=675764












