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Let me give you a little history about my car, first. For a couple years now, I've been having a vibration in my car whenever its around 1200-1300 rpm and couldn't figure out what it might have been. Everyone, including different dealerships, thought it might have been exhaust related but it wasn't. I thought it might have been my tranny but never got it checked out. Anyway, I get the vibration the worst at around 40 mph (1200-1300rpm at bottom of gear) but it would happen at just about any speed (about just as bad at fast speeds, too). To alleviate the vibration, I would downshift from overdrive to drive to get a higher rpm. When I get faster, I would shift it back to overdrive.
I've been having to do this for the past couple years. Well, last night, I shifted to drive as usual and was coasting in traffic and gave it a tiny bit of gas to keep up with traffic when I noticed I wasn't going faster. The car got out of gear. I shifted back to overdrive and it was fine. I thought maybe my shifter was out of place and paid no attention to it. Same thing happened several times later and that's when I knew I had a problem. I figured I'd get it fixed when I get done getting my errand done.
I'm looking for this store about 50 miles away from home in west burbs of Chicago and can't find the address. I pull over into a parking lot, put it in park, and check the address again. I decide to get going and put it back into reverse and noticed something wierd. It ain't going nowhere. I could go forwards in overdrive but not any of the other gears or reverse. I put it back in park, turn off the car, turn it back on, and then it was fine again. I find the store only to find it closed and decided to just go home and get the car checked out.
On the way back, I wanted to check out if it was still acting up with drive again and do the downshift. This time, it won't go into either overdrive or drive. Not being able to go forward, I pull over on the side of the road. After messing around for a couple minutes, I found out my car is stuck in reverse and it won't shift out of it. It will go into neutral but nothing else. I ended up having to have it towed last night.
I heard it might be a tranny or the linkage and was wondering what you guys think. IF it is the tranny, I was thinking about getting a new one; perhaps a Dana 44. In the future, I will be getting a SC. I want a quick 1/4 mile but I also want a good top end speed and want a tranny that can that. I'm sure the SC will help with 1/4 mile but will a Dana 44 be able to get me a good top end speed? What's its max top end?
Oh, just to let you guys know, I know little about transmissions or anything related to it. I know that the higher the ratio, the quicker your 1/4 mile will be but the slower your top end will be. So I'm looking for a good balance between the two. I also know the 44's can take a helluva lot more abuse than the 36's can. Beyond that, I'm relatively clueless.
And since this is my daily driver, please keep that in mind, as well. :smash:
From: Fear causes hesitaiton...and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true. Houston TX
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: I have MAJOR problems (Lord Odin)
A Dana 44 is a diferential, not a trans. My guess is you get to pull a trans and do a rebuild. When's the last time you had any service done to the tranny?
You have a transmission problem. Your rear end assembly is a Dana 36. The Dana 44s came with the manual transmission cars. The ratio you are refering to is in the rear end. Unless you decide to do an expensive, additional, change to the car (new rear end) at the same time, the trans repair will have nothing to do the "36", "44", acceleration, or top speed. Too bad you blew the trans, it's the rear you wanted to loose. Good luck, and...
A Dana 44 is a diferential, not a trans. My guess is you get to pull a trans and do a rebuild. When's the last time you had any service done to the tranny?
I'd say so too.
Did you check the fluid level?
Sounds like it's too late for adding fluid to do any good though. Be sure to shop around and find a shop that REALLY knows 700R4s. Be prepared for sticker shock too.
From: Minnesota in the summer, Las Vegas in the winter
Re: I have MAJOR problems (Lord Odin)
On this forum I have seen websites listed for specialty transmission repair centers. I remember one in the Midwest and one in Phoenix. I am sure there are others. I have many competent transmission rebuilders in my area and I am in a small town. Any good mechanic can remove and reinstall your transmission, and send it to a rebuilder in your area. Or you can try one of the websites listed somewhere in the past threads here. It will not be cheap, but (1) what on a corvette is, and (2) if you plan on having your car for some time the rebuild will be a good investment in your own vehicle...
Had a similar problem with my Dodge, I had no reverse neutral or drive, just low 1 and low 2, even inpark, the car would try to go. I lived with it for a few weeks, parking only where I could pull out forward. Then I bought a new filter and changed it and the fluid. The car ran perfect after that, but after 3 weeks it was back to it's old self. I yanked it out back in 1990 and still haven't opened it up to see what was wrong.
My guess is that the valve body is shot. Doesn't matter now since I no longer have the car, but I still have the trans.
Have a competent shop check it out, most won't charge you for an inspection, but then again, you won't be able to drive the car home(or there even it sounds like).
Sounds like it's too late for adding fluid to do any good though. Be sure to shop around and find a shop that REALLY knows 700R4s. Be prepared for sticker shock too.
Shouldn't be too hard to find a repair shop. The 700R4 or 4L60E transmission is VERY common. Used in just about all GM trucks at one point.
I expect my trany to die in the next year or two also. When it does I'm going to spring for a little extra and go 4L80E or TH400 with GV overdrive. It's a lot more solid then a 700.
They told me that the trans was in bad shape. I could spend $2100 to have it rebuilt and a 1 yr warranty or just go with a brand new one for $2300 w/ 3 yr warranty. That's parts and labor included.
I told'em that I would think about it because I want to do some price shopping. On top of that, they won't do any mods to the trans (such as a shift kit or anything), so I may end up taking it someplace else.
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I just called up a new place not too far away and they told me they could install a brand new transmission with shift kit for around $1500. Now I just gotta get it over there. :smash:
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I'm not sure how much FLP charges but I bet it's close to what I paid for a beefed up trans from Trans Eddies Tri-State in Orland Park. I gave him my trans and he guaranteed it for up to 500 hp and it was under $1500.
I rebuilt my own tranny and installed a shift kit with all new "soft" parts for about $650 with new converter. It can be done.
But to disagree with an above post.....when I asked around here about having someone rebuild mine..they all said no. I even offered to pull it out of the car and bring it to them and they still said no. I think it's the fact that its a delicate tranny in a high performance car that has them wondering how many times it would be in for a warranty re-build.
I "think" that the warranty a shop put on it would be a warranty on their own workmanship and some parts. It is obvious to them, I am sure, that when they modify it for higher performance, then you plan on "beating" on it every once in a while. No matter how could a rebuild on anything...something is bound to break eventually. They can really get burned by having to repair warranty repairs over and over.
And, yes, any competent tranny builder can tell if you put a shift kit in it....which I am sure would void your warranty. Thats why I did mine myself. With a $1200 rebuild at a shop, I could build two of mine for that same price and learn a lot about trannys when I did. Many will disagree because not everyone has the patience or know-how to do it. I just did a lot of research and I am still driving it today and I can say "I did that!".
I hope this helps...I know I am blabbing on and on......but if your tranny needs a rebuild...you can trust someone else and spend big $$$ or take the jump and learn how to do it yourself and if you mess up on the first one...you can still build your second and still be under what it would cost for a shop rebuild. If you don;t think you can do it or can challenge yourself..then by all means have someone else do it...BUT research each place before you do. Some companys replace only whats broke, some replace everything that has or could have wear.
Good luck...if you decide you wanna rebuild it yourself...I will help any way I can or atleast lead you in the right direction.
Hi, when talking with trans shops make sure they are talking about Vette versions. Even if 700R4 is a common type there is a difference between Vette and other transmissions.
Your original trans has a lockup converter which is important for fuel economy, a Vette only feature is that with Vette trans you can cruise in OD even in high speed. Other 700R4's downshift out of overdrive in that situation. There might also be some differences in the tail peaces of these transmissions but you probably can use your original part.
Then, I have a vague memory that in 88 or 89 they made some change to 700R4 which made them much stronger than the earlier versions. Anybody have any info on this?
Also: make sure you get a good warranty for your new transmission. Rebuilt 700R4's have a notorious reputation for selfdestructing quite quickly. Good luck!
Might be a good time to put in a better torque converter to squeeze a few 10ths out of that 1/4 mile. Hopefully people who have upgraded will tell you what you can expect.
Hi, when talking with trans shops make sure they are talking about Vette versions. Even if 700R4 is a common type there is a difference between Vette and other transmissions.
Your original trans has a lockup converter which is important for fuel economy, a Vette only feature is that with Vette trans you can cruise in OD even in high speed. Other 700R4's downshift out of overdrive in that situation. There might also be some differences in the tail peaces of these transmissions but you probably can use your original part.
Then, I have a vague memory that in 88 or 89 they made some change to 700R4 which made them much stronger than the earlier versions. Anybody have any info on this?
Also: make sure you get a good warranty for your new transmission. Rebuilt 700R4's have a notorious reputation for selfdestructing quite quickly. Good luck!
ToniH
EXACTLY.
Make sure it's a Vette Tranny and don't take anyone's word for it. Check the serial number stamped on the case. Later year transmissions are improved and stronger too.
Make sure it's a Vette Tranny and don't take anyone's word for it. Check the serial number stamped on the case. Later year transmissions are improved and stronger too.
Jake
:iagree: There has been some stories of how a vette had been taken in with tranny problem and was replaced with a 700r4 from another car/truck. They ARE different trannys...gear ratios internally, and tail shaft externally. Also, as someone stated above, I think it was late 87 they changed to a 31 spline(and stronger) input shaft and modified some of the internals. So....beware of tranny shops and find someone youcan trust...they are hard to find, but they do exist.
I had my tranny rebuilt twice, first time it wasn't properly adjusted and I drove like a nut and blew the 2nd gear. I had it rebuilt the second time and didn't have any problems since then.
If you want my advice, don't take your car at a dealer, take it at a good reputable tranny shop that will give you a warranty and will give you some details or explanations on your options for a shift kit.
There is lots of stuff to learn about our tranny's, but basically when they install a shift kit they only change some of the small rubber parts inside the tranny to make them more durable and they also adjust the tranny to make it shift harder/firmer and they put in a higher torque converter.
If you've ever floored your vette, you've probably noticed your RPM gage go up about 1500 RMP before the car actually took off.... well that called the stall speed and you can buy a higher stall torque converter and have the car take off at 2000 RMP or 2500 RMP or even 3000 RPM.... even higher. Its kinda like driving a standard car adn floring the gas pedal and making the engine rev up to 3000 RMP and then poping the clutch. :D
The best for street use and once in a wile 1/4 mile would be something around 2500 stall speed.
So ask for a torque converter with 2500 stall speed and have some type of shift kit installed.
Dont be affraid to ask questions when you go see a tranny shop, its your money and your allowed to know what they will be doing or changing on your car when you bring it in for repairs.