Where can I buy one of these Heated O2 sensors for a L-98...?

 

Autozone & Advanced Auto too

 

Went to both and had no luck and all they say is that they don't list one for my car.....I must live in the dumb part of the auto parts stores......Maybe I will try it again......am I just not asking for the correct thing when I tell them what I need is a heated O2 sensor....They look at me like I'm CRAZY.....

 

Go to the tech section for C-4's here on the fourm and it lists an Atozone part # for a Bosch O-2

 

Yep it is the one with 3 wires. Two white and one black with green and black connector on the end. 13190 is sensor and 85392 is connector with leads from Pepboys.


[Modified by BAM92, 1:33 AM 11/17/2003]


[Modified by BAM92, 1:33 AM 11/17/2003]

 

Thanks guys....I will try them all...and see if they have any brains.....is this thing car year related?

 

Heated O2 Sensor for Long Tube Headers -- 1 of 1
Date Published: 2001-08-27

Submitter's Name: Bruce Newman
Email Address: Private
Corvetteforum.com Member Alias: Flame Red

Enthusiasts
that have installed long tube headers may find that their engines are
running in opened loop because the O2 sensor is not heated to 600 degrees.
This is especially true if the O2 bung is relocated to the collector. In
the case of the Hooker 2149 header, the bung is located on the #7 tube out
of the box. This makes the stock O2 sensor work properly, however, the
sensor is only measuring the gases from one cylinder, which can be
inacurate.

Thanks to the help of many forum members, here is some
helpful information that may ease the pain of converting the standard O2
sensor to a heated one.

Parts required:

* Bosch O2 Sensor.
This sensor is AutoZone part number 13190 and costs $43.99. This is an
Autozone part number not a Bosch part number.
* 3 Female Terminal
Tower. This is available at Pep Boys. Part number 85392. It costs $7.99.
The are a couple of these available. This one has leads. There is another
that has no leads and you must puchase leads, insulators, etc.
* 1
Female Terminal tower, which can be cut from old O2 sensor or a new one
can be purchased at Pep Boys.
Miscellaneous wire, insulation, crimps,
tie wraps.

Tools Required: 7/8” wrench, pliers, 10mm socket,
crimp tool, wire cutters, wire stripper.

Procedure:

1.
For those that are **** about proper procedure, disconnect positive
battery connection. For the rest of us, go to step 2.
2. Disconnect
old O2 sensor feed wire by carefully disconnecting clip.
3. Use
7/8” wrench to remove old sensor.
4. Install new sensor. Sensor
has anti-seize on it already. Tighten with 7/8” wrench.
5.
Cut lead from old O2 sensor so you do not have to mangle your car’s
wiring harness. If you prefer to keep your original O2 sensor whole, you
can purchase a new single connector from Pep Boys.
6. Connect 3
female tower connector to new O2 Sensor.
7. Crimp the old lead from
the old O2 sensor to the wire on the 3 female tower connector that
corresponds to the black wire of the new O2 sensor. Insulate well with
high temp insulation!
8. Connect the old sensor lead now coming
from the black wire of the new O2 sensor to the car’s O2 sensor
lead.
9. The other two wires of the new O2 sensor are white.
Connect one of the corresponding wires to ground. It does not matter which
one. There is a convenient 10mm bolt that connects to the engine just to
the rear of the oil filter. This is a good ground.
10. Cut an
appropriate length of (red) wire and crimp to the other corresponding
white lead of the new O2 sensor. Insulate the connection.
11.
Connect the other end to your favorite 12V source that is ignition
activated. There is a good source on the Fan Relays that is ignition
triggered.
12. Tie wrap everything out of the way from the
intense heat source of the header!

Enjoy! You car will behave much
better, at least mine did! No more constant running rich :) due to
constant open loop.

Flame Red