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Well took the car out to the dealership with the 406 Monster under the hood for the last time. :sad:
Dismantled it and its ready to pull out already! Amazing how fast you can pull a tranny, remove all the engine goodies, ect after doing a zillion times.
Should be another interesting winter of engine building going on. Need something to get through the cold winter months and get the blood pumping come spring!
Here is to a good year of racing and having a great motor to run this past summer. : By far the best motor I have ever had the opportunity to sit behind the wheel of. :cheers:
Thanks Cork for the help on it :cheers: :cheers YOU THE MAN! :smash: :thumbs: :steering:
yeah sorry. Have to cater to the fella with the cash for the engine. I would have really liked to have run it one more time, with an MSD on it to see if that really is the difference between Cork's car and mine. Oh well as I said it was a fun and exciting year of racing. Only HAD to get trailered home once from a broken shifter cable. 20 dollar repair. Sure pays to build them right to begin with.
That is what scares me about next year. There will be a few HUGE $$ question marks...Tranny and Rear. But as they say, you play-you pay. :cheers:
Good luck this weekend. I would come down to help you out, but I have my other two kids this weekend and Sunday I have to be ready to take the motor to Jersey.
Instructions: Play with your fuel till you get around 820 mv (in 3rd gear). If its greater than 820mv reduce the pressure, if its lower increase pressure.
Once you get the 820 mv, make a base pass. Then adjust the base timing 2* up or down an if you see a gain in either direction, keep moving that way till the MPH drops back off. Then go back to the setting that yielded the best MPH. Bingo that is your best base timing. I dialed my car in earlier in the year like that in about 5 runs. After or dueing the timing changes, again check for ~820 MV and make ~2psi adjustments to dial that in.
Remember <820mv lean & >820 mv rich
base timing that yield best MPH is best!
That chip should be within 2* of being on for timing. So you should not need to move it much at all.
Also I wanted to mention to you that my dad's car earlier in the year had a high end miss. Turned out it was the button inside the cap, that teh rotor turns on. When you would take it off and look up in there everything looked great. Then one day it fell out. Here it was cracked through horizontaly up past where the plastic is, so it looked OK. Changed that out and all has been good. You may Dave, just want to get a new cap to eliminate the HEI coil and the cap all together. Also I have hear that the MSDs, if they are not compatable with the Rotor buttons will cause this problem. Scorp I believe was blowing them up, they have too much resistance and the heat pops them.
Check it out, I want to see a 9 sec run off that this this year. If that doesn't work, strap the refrigerator on the roof as we discussed earlier! :jester :cheers: :thumbs:
Jesse,
Are you planning on staing with the Dana 44 and 700R? I just wounder about a stronger set up than you are running now with those two items left in the mix.
Ski, start them off right and its not a problem. She said she wanted a diamond ring, and I said with all this motor work ahead...not sure if I can swing it. :jester :lolg: :as he leaves for the jewlers:
89 Paul,
I will keep you all in the loop for sure! Its fun reporting the progress etc and getting feedback and helping others.
The SR is sold as are the AFR 190s, not 195s. They were bought some time ago by forum member mistaben, then I had my "testing the waters" post on here before I tested out the single plane intake. He has been waiting ever so patiently for them...So off to Arizona they go next week to a new home. :cheers: