I just picked up a new oil pump that I want to install today. Is there suppose to be a gasket between the pump and the block?

Any info would be great.

-Mike

 

I don't have one in mine, Mike. :)

 

Cool, thanks Scorp. So gasket-less I will go.

I hope this fixes my oil pressure issues. We'll see soon.

:D

 

No gasket here..

 

Right, no gasket.

There are a few other things to do though:

Be sure to pin or weld the pickup tube to the pump body (unless you have a pump tapped for a screw on pickup). If you opt to weld the pickup on, remove the pressure spring first to avoid the heat from effecting the spring.

Prime the pump by inserting the pickup into a can of fresh oil and turning the pump rod by hand.

I use to always remove the end plate and check the clearance of the gears to the pump plate surface. Quality control has improved a lot over time so if you have a name brand pump you shouldn't have a problem.

The length of the oil pump bolt is critical. If it's even a tad too long, it will contact the backside of the rear main bearing and that'll mean big trouble when the engine is started and run.

I always use clay to check the clearance between the bottom of the pickup and the bottom of the oil pan - 1/4"min -3/8" max is what you want. This is often over-looked, but makes a huge difference in the formation of an oil vortex and oil sloshing away from the pick during heavy braking and high speed turning.

Be sure to hit the torque spec right-on; too much can distort the rear main cap and its bearing; too little and the pump can vibrate loose.

In rebuilding the 400 block that I'm currently running, I found the rear main oil hole in the block did not align with the oil hole in the Celvite rear main bearing. At least 1/3rd of the oil hole in the block was blocked by the bearing.

I put up a post about this when I discovered it, asking if anyone had a similar experience; got no responses so maybe mine was the exception. It does go to show that EVERYTHING has to be checked though; even new, out the box parts.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Great info thanks!

I think I'm going to take the pump I got back and get an actual Melling pump (M55A). What NAPA gave me was a Dana/Clevenite cross referenced pump. I'm not too sure of the quality compared to the Melling so I guess I'll be safe than sorry.

I'm going to need to pick up a new oil pickup tomorrow. I thought the engine guy had just tack welded it, but instead he welded about 3/4 the way around. I wont' be able to grind that off!

I didn't look at the pump too closely. What's involved in removing the pressure spring?

Thanks

-Mike

:seeya

 

It's simple to remove. If you look closely at the cover of the pump opposite the pickup end, you'll see where the spring is installed. On most pumps, there is a tiny pin, about 1/16th diameter, that holds the spring in place. Other pumps have a hex head plug that simply unscrews.

Use a drift (I sometimes use a headless nail) to tap the pin out. Make sure you cover the hole as the pin comes out or the spring will 'spring' out.

Replacing it is simple too. I use a thin philips screwdriver to keep the spring compressed in the pump as I tap the pin back in place. Most anything that will hold the spring compressed while at the same time allowing enough clearance for the pin to be re-installed will work.

Make sure to get the correct pickup for your pan so as to have it positioned 1/4" min to 3/8" max from the bottom of the pan.

A buddy of mine lose his engine when he had a hacker engine builder install a 6 quart oil pan which had a deeper sump than his stock 5 quart pan. He didn't change to the correct pickup. Pickup uncovered in corners, pickup sucked air and BANG!

BTW, if you are going to get another pump, check out the Moroso offerings. They offer pumps with balance grooves already installed to the inside of the cover and pump body housing; they prevent spark scatter at high RPM by balancing pressure pulses.

Make sure the cover bolts are torqued too. I've never seen the torque spec for the bolts, just make sure they are tight. They should have lock washers on them from the factory.

The oil pump is the actual heart of the engine; a few extra dollars and checking/prepping is well worth it.

Jake