Changing clutch cylinders
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Re: Changing clutch cylinders (Storz)
The slave is pretty easy. A pin connects the actuating rod to the clutch fork, couple bolts hold the cylinder to the bellhousing and one bolt holds the hose ammembly to the slave housing. Once you get under the car, the slave should be off in just a minute or so. It's probably a good idea to let all of the old fluid drain out before you begin to pull the master.
The M/C is a little more difficult. A pin holds the cluth pedal shaft to the M/C actuating rod and that's up under the dash. Pull the "hush panel" under the steering wheel for access. The nuts holding the M/C to the firewall are removed and the hydraulic line is removed. Use a line wrench here- you don't want to bung up the fitting!! From what I have searched, the hydraulic line is no longer available from the dealer and I have not even seen it at various parts places so treat that piece like gold :D
With everything back in place, bleed the system by holding the slave parallel to the ground and open the bleed valve to bleed the system. Use either a good DOT3 brake fluid or the GM clutch fluid. A pint should do it.
The M/C is a little more difficult. A pin holds the cluth pedal shaft to the M/C actuating rod and that's up under the dash. Pull the "hush panel" under the steering wheel for access. The nuts holding the M/C to the firewall are removed and the hydraulic line is removed. Use a line wrench here- you don't want to bung up the fitting!! From what I have searched, the hydraulic line is no longer available from the dealer and I have not even seen it at various parts places so treat that piece like gold :D
With everything back in place, bleed the system by holding the slave parallel to the ground and open the bleed valve to bleed the system. Use either a good DOT3 brake fluid or the GM clutch fluid. A pint should do it.
