REPLACE DRIVE AXEL U-JOINT? HOW TOUGH?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 128
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From: tampa fl
REPLACE DRIVE AXEL U-JOINT? HOW TOUGH?
Heres another first for me, U-Joint on drivers side closest to the wheel on drive axel. How long should this take, and any special tools required? Are there any short cuts (according to the Haynes manual). Is there anything else I should do or check while I have this apart?
Thanks
Rocky :flag
Thanks
Rocky :flag
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 5
From: Lake Villa IL
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Contributor
Re: REPLACE DRIVE AXEL U-JOINT? HOW TOUGH? (ROCKY85)
This isn't a bad job at all. The most you'll need, by way of special tools, is a vise or a press, and a tie rod separator (rent from AutoZone or buy one for $9.00). The rest requires the basics: jack stands, a wrench set, possibly a breaker bar.
The Haynes manual is pretty straightforward with the procedure. It's what I used. The first axle took some time. But now that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do a side in just over an hour.
Key points:
1. Make sure you have a grease pen to mark the alignment cam bolts. This way, your car will still be aligned when you put it back together.
2. Replace any cotter pins. It's best to have fresh ones.
3. When pressing out the U-joints, make sure the needle bearings stay in place. They can be a mess, if you drop them.
My best advice, is to just tackle it. While the process itself may not sound very straightforward, as with most suspension/steering/driveline stuff, it really is. As you work your way through, it will all make sense.
Also, there is an excellent web page, that one of our members did, outlining the process with clear photos. I think you'll find the link in the archives.
Good luck with it!
:cheers:
The Haynes manual is pretty straightforward with the procedure. It's what I used. The first axle took some time. But now that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do a side in just over an hour.
Key points:
1. Make sure you have a grease pen to mark the alignment cam bolts. This way, your car will still be aligned when you put it back together.
2. Replace any cotter pins. It's best to have fresh ones.
3. When pressing out the U-joints, make sure the needle bearings stay in place. They can be a mess, if you drop them.
My best advice, is to just tackle it. While the process itself may not sound very straightforward, as with most suspension/steering/driveline stuff, it really is. As you work your way through, it will all make sense.
Also, there is an excellent web page, that one of our members did, outlining the process with clear photos. I think you'll find the link in the archives.
Good luck with it!
:cheers:
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,324
Likes: 250
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Re: REPLACE DRIVE AXEL U-JOINT? HOW TOUGH? (joeveto)
:iagree:
It is easy but your vice needs to open up real wide to accept a socket on each side of the u-joint.
I just followed my hanes manual with no problems. :thumbs:
:cheers:
It is easy but your vice needs to open up real wide to accept a socket on each side of the u-joint.
I just followed my hanes manual with no problems. :thumbs:
:cheers:
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver,Wa.
