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As some of you may know....I got the Jasper motor as the one we had threw a rod. I was sick for a while, I finally started working on it about 2 days ago. Today, I got everything on, heads, intake, lifters, pushrods, rockers, etc.
But nw I have a problem. I ran the oil pump with an air drill and an old shaft, and only one side of the motor, driver's side, pumped the lifters with oil. Whats going on?!?! The other side isn't even wet with oil, much less the lifters filling, and the driver's side lifters got pumped up, but still no oil came up through the pushrods or rockers. I took one off from the driver's side, and there was oil in the pushrod, it just never flowed completely through. I worked on Chevy motors before, and never had this happen. I tried pumping the lifters up without the pushrods and rockers tighted down after it didn't work with them tighteneddown, but still no luck.
Any ideas?
I ran the pump about 5 time for a total of 15 minutes trying to figure this out. It should had definately worked, so I didn't not do it enough.
Obviously your oil pump is working! how you managed to do what you said you did is a mystery.How did you supply the oil? And how many rpm's does your drill run? I've done alot of motors and soaked the lifters overnight in oil,
oiled every part I could and never tried what you tried. Just fired them up.
Well, I'm not sure what the drill spins. I have an oil pressure gauge, and it reads 40psi with the drill spinnign as fast as it will go.
I wasn't sure with the lifters. All the other motors I did all I needed was to run the pump to get the lifters filled. Now, it doesn't seem to be pusing the oil.
Well I am going on memory but in the front of the block behind the timing gear (the one on the cam) is two small pipe plugs. They are next to the cam journal. One is for each bank (left, right). If the engine builder did not put one back in that side of the block will not pump up. Only thing that concerns me is if the plug is out I wonder how you got 40 psi because it would be a pretty large leak. The oil would flow out the plug and back into the pan past the front main cap. I want to commend you on checking the oil system before starting because you could score a journal weld a push rod to a lifter or other horrible things. The bad part is to remove the front timing cover is a big job. To check the plug. :crazy:
Are you using just the shaft to turn it? you should have an old distributor with the gear removed to do this. The housing will direct oil to the lifters. Also 40 psi should stop a drill. ive always had to use a small impact. A big one will snap the pump shaft. Hope you don have to take it apart.
Re: new motor problems....help! (Michael Majorana)
If you are getting oil to one side good, chances are great that you've got some type of blockage problem to that other side. Don't take a chance at this stage of the game pull that head. Use your drill and see if you've got oil that far.
HAVE A GREAT DAY!!! :flag
I believe I figured it out. The dummy shaft I used was for a different Chevy motor. It had a groove in it. Th oil pumps around the mid section of the distributor and to the left side. So as long ad I use the stock one, I'll be fine.
40psi is no problem with almost any drill. The oil pump doesn't have enough pressure to stop the drill.
You need an inexpensive oil primer tool. It comes with a slip collar that acts as a restrictor/diverter to allow both sides of the engine (both heads) to receive oil under pressure.
With that tool, you can spin the pump, and slowly turn the engine over by hand, until oil is squirting from all the rocker arms.
In the past, when my priming tool took a hike, I simply slipped a large diameter 1/2" socket over the distributor shaft I was using and the socket served the same purpose as the collar.
:cool: Glad you got it figured out! I was going to say that one of the four oil galley plugs didn't make it in! :eek: That would just dump your oil pressure straight into the timing cover and then into the oil pan...but you wouldn't make pressure anywhere if it were true.