Okay, I am putting in the rollbar soon(Since I run 11's). Now I might as well go real fast. I have a 396 LT-1, which makes 400rwhp now, 700R etc. It is a More Performance motor, and can handle 150-200hp shot of NOS. Solid parts.
Now I need a NOS system, and recommended electronics, fuel pump, timing retard boxes?? I like the progressive systems? PLMK what you have and installation problems. Thanks

 

Only installation problems I have had lately with the NX kits are solenoids leaking when they are new. I had to send one back twice for them to fix it and now my purge solenoid is leaking. My kit that is almost 4 years old I have never had a lick of trouble with the solenoids though. I would still recommend the NX kits though. Just check them all for leaking before opening that bottle.

So how much will that 700R4 hold up to. I would think you are already pretty close to the breaking limit of it. Adding the torque of nitrous will certainly kill it quick.

 

Vette 92, can you giv eme a run down of your system. IE, MSD boxes, swithces and fuel pump and NOS kit part number, if it is a LT-1 setup . Thanks, Steve

 

I have a basic LT1 NX Kit with the Gen-x2 add on package. I also run a MSD Window switch, MSD-6A, and MSD-8970 retard control (3 stage). I do have a single stage timing retard box that works fine for a MSD ignition that I just replaced with the 3 stage. As for fuel I ran a new seperate 6an line and it feeds into the drivers side of the fuel rail. I have T'd off this line to feed the nitrous solenoid. I run two tanks in the pump and they are both Walbro GSS-340's (the high pressure 255lph pumps). Here are some pics in this topic ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...399#1545392399 )

As you will also see in the pics, I have done the direct port route as well so I am running a NX 80000EFI kit with some change in the pill configurations. This kit fuel solenoid is also fedd off the added 6an line.

As for the switches, I bought some low profile ones from Autozone as opposed to using the huge toggles that come in the kit. I also run a fuel pressure gauge in a pod for the nitrous so I can see if I am having fuel problems.

I think that is about it.

 

Steve 40th,

Go with the NX system, Ive heard theres is way better than NOS. They have better solenoids from what I here. I wanted to outline my experiences:

I run a 100HP NX wet shot on my hot cam'd/headers/no cats 6spd vert. I have an Ed Wright hotcam fast chip too.

I run a window switch (on at 3200 RPM, off at 5800 RPM). I consider this a 'must' and IMHO you are suicidal if you dont run one.

I bought all the bells and whistles (purge valve, heater, insulated blanket, NX switch panel).

I also installed lights on both the fuel and nitrous solenoids that are hidden in my central AC vents. These come on and make it very obvious that both solenoids are operating as appropriately.

Here are the some of the minor setbacks I ran into with my system:

1. Didnt seem very 'fast' at first
Reason: I had my fuel/n2o spray tube spraying cold nitrous directly onto my air inlet temperature sensor. This is bad because the car gives way too much fuel. Causing the already conservatively rich running NX system, to make the car run too rich.
Reason #2 A spark plug boot was not snapped on all the way as well.
Solution: relocated IAT, pushed spark plug boot on fully.

2. System gave a noticeable improvement in power, but not what i expected. Also, black smoke came out the exhaust when hitting it.

Solution: had to put one size smaller fuel jet than what NX recommended, in the fuel side sprayer of the nozzle. I did this on a dyno and was still at a safe 12.0:1 A/F ratio

3. Bottle heater takes a signficant amount of time to heat bottle, and loses heat quickly when driving with the top down
Solution: bought an NX-logod bottle jacket for $110 (yikes)

4. Nitrous seemed to deplete quite rapidly
Problem: nitrous leak diagnosed by using a water mister bottle to spray water on all fittings. Found at a fitting junction into the purge solenoid nitrous leaked.
Solution: Remove solenoid, reassemble and retighten using NX thread sealer (simply red loc-tite)

5. Had the system activate once while spinning my tires at the start of a drag race....I got lucky here, I could have blown the engine. The window switch activated the system at 3000 RPM (the 'on' setpoint) before i got traction, and de-activated it at 5800 RPM...
Solution: more careful launches....and i put the 3200 RPM 'on' pill in.
I use the std. wide open throttle switch to activiate mine, no problem. You can mount it on one of their supplied universal brackets by bending the bracket 90 degrees and then sandwiching it between the alternator bolt head, and the alternator bracket. You will then have to bend it down to make sure it depresses when the throttle body horn/lever is at WOT..


Unless you plan on running over a 100 shot, or run weird advanced timing, dont worry about timing retard. I tried using 3 different MSD digital 6 plus 's...each one failed within a few weeks leaving me stranded in inconvenient places.

Also.....The fuel pressure safety switch. I dont run one, because the system would cut on and off rapidly due to the fuel pressure spike. I had to mount mine on the fuel line right next to the fuel solenoid (which is not recommended). The problem is that the aluminum manifold screwed into the fuel pressure test valve such that the hole faced the plenum!!! The hole is what the fuel presure safety switch goes in.

After getting annoyed with the system cutting on and off, and trying to adjust the screw on it to get it to activiate only at lower pressures (<35 psi), I got tired of it.

Finally, dont purge your system too much. all you do is waste nitrous.
The only purpose of my purge system is to check and make sure nitrous is still in the bottle (you see a white plume come out, instead of just gas hissing).

 

I agree with just about everything you said, but this.

There is a better way around this problem and that is to wire it differently than NX recommends. Tie this only to the nitrous ground so that the nitous solenoid is closed until the pressure levels out on the fuel side. Then when the fuel is showing adequate pressure it opens the nitous solenoid. It is very brief and it will keep the system from the on/off/on/off operation and it does not force you into setting the FPSS so low it will not do any good.

Chris