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At the time, my car had some crap after-market chip, muffler eliminators, a K&N, and an adjustable fuel filter. The car made 242 RWHP before, and 275 after. It has been a long time, maybe I can find the dyno sheet if I have to.
At the time, my car had some crap after-market chip, muffler eliminators, a K&N, and an adjustable fuel filter. The car made 242 RWHP before, and 275 after. It has been a long time, maybe I can find the dyno sheet if I have to.
Tony
So the 275 rwhp was made with a new/different chip?
The chip was in the car when it made 242 RWHP. The only changes I made to get the 33 RWHP gain was the shortie headers, removed the cats, and adjusted fuel pressure.
The chip was in the car when it made 242 RWHP. The only changes I made to get the 33 RWHP gain was the shortie headers, removed the cats, and adjusted fuel pressure.
Tony
I wonder if its posible that your cats were getting clogged and that was the reason for the substantial gain, beacause I'm thinking your car should have been making more than 242 on the before dyno.
For those that have installed shorties, what do you do with the AIR tube on the passenger side that does not quite line up with the inlet location on the shorty? Do you cut and reweld the existing AIR tube or can it be bent a bit to fit? It looks like the driver's side is not as much a problem as there appears be a slip connection for adusting location.
For those that have installed shorties, what do you do with the AIR tube on the passenger side that does not quite line up with the inlet location on the shorty? Do you cut and reweld the existing AIR tube or can it be bent a bit to fit? It looks like the driver's side is not as much a problem as there appears be a slip connection for adusting location.
The Hookers came with instructions to cut either 3/4" or 1" out of the pipe on the pass side. I brought the pipe to a really precise welding /fabrication shop nearby and he cut and welded it for about $20. He did such a good job, I couldn't tell where he welded it. He even made sure the alignment was correct. The only fabrication I had to do was making a stud/standoff bolt that would hold the AC/ alt brackets and header in place. You can use the OEM stud, but I felt more comfortable with a few more threads in the heads. I also, used 1" header bolts with hex socket heads (S/S of course)