When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just ran into the first problem with my 383 build up. I am running the stock bolts and stock windage tray and she hits. What are you guys using? This is a one piece remain seal.
I replaced the bollts in my main caps and used studs in their place. The ARP studs has stand offs for a windage tray and of course the stock tray would not fit. I used a moroso 23020 louvered tray which fits blocks with either dip stick location. Rich called me earlier on this about his engine so here you go Rich!
Would I be better off gettin a new pan with all the goodies? There one out there that will have no fitting issues with my headers and One piece rear main?
I am using studs also, but my windage tray attaches to my pan instead. My scraper is in there also. I am using a custom Kevko pan, but I believe there are alot of Canton pans on this forum.
Are you using the center studs that go with the particular windage tray you're using...I'm assuming you're using the OEM GM type...
On many 383's the windage tray will often have to be clearanced; the OEM ones in particular because they don't have studs that let you pick what height you want to set it at. I would suspect you're getting contact with the rod bolts, correct? Since you can't move the tray up we usually trim slots just big enough to clear the rods...
-Jeb
You hit that one on the head. There a pan out there that has no cleareance issues with the 2149 and one piece rear main? That is the best way to do it?
Is the pan the problem?? That GM windage tray will/should fit in just about every oil pan from the piddly stock 5 qt. job up to big 8 qt. aftermarket pans.
Once you clearance the tray so the rod bolts will clear you shouldn't have to deal with any pan issues. Keep in mind that that windage tray and its studs are designed around a 3.48" stroke and you've added another .25" of stroke...If you'll measure how much protrusion you're rods are sticking through the tray you'll figure out it's almost exactly .25"...
-Jeb
I had to space it up slightly, but mostly had to heavily trim up the sides to make it clear the rods once the stock pan was on. I also bent the bottom of the dipstick a little to make it "skim" the tray instead of scraping it.
Just do what I said and trim the windage tray slightly for the rod bolts to clear... That will solve all of your problems. I use the Milodon Diamond scraper as well with ARP studs; but the ARP's are adjustable so you can move the tray up (or down) as you see fit and don't have to trim like you do the GM style tray.
-Jeb
Sorry fpr the confusion, The mains where line honed.
No, no. What he's saying is that if the block was align bored/honed with bolts holding down the main caps (not studs) and you now wish to use studs, the block needs to be align honed because you changed the fasteners.
Apparently studs load the main caps differently and can cause mis-alignment/distortion problems.
It's always recommended that you do it that way; same thing with changing rod bolts; the rods should be re-sized.
Of course, like a lot of other things, there are those who don't go that extra mile. It may not always be a problem, but it's the chance you take if you opt not to have it done. Choose your poison.
Just do what I said and trim the windage tray slightly for the rod bolts to clear... That will solve all of your problems. I use the Milodon Diamond scraper as well with ARP studs; but the ARP's are adjustable so you can move the tray up (or down) as you see fit and don't have to trim like you do the GM style tray.
-Jeb
Thanks Jeb, All set. Just used the stock windage tray with the OEM Fastners. Set up right by a well know race engine builder in the area here..
Here's the solution
1) Take a big butt hammer and bnag/bend the little windage tray into shape
2) for an additional clearance add washers and use loctite to keep everything togehter
3) you will need to "clearance" the oil pan as well, install your pan to torque specs without using any sealant on the pan. #7/8 will definitely hit