I'm going to be replacing the timing chain on my 88 pretty soon. From what I've read in the archives, everyone seems to be going with a Cloyes unit. I'm seeing this go for about $75, give or take.

I've had good luck in the past with Clevite bearings, so I didn't discount it when I saw that Clevite made a timing chain for my L98. It looks like I can pick one up for 11 bucks and not have to deal with waiting/paying for shipping.

Is there a substantial difference in the two that will make the money/time differences worth it? My motor itself is basically stock and I have no plans in the near future to go through it.

 

Is the $11 Clevite timing chain a true double roller like the Cloyes, and if so do you think the quality to be the same?

Stick with the cloyes.

 

I believe it's of the same specs as the OEM chain, so probably not. It's my understanding that the double roller chains are more resistent to stretching over time. Are there other benefits?

Sorry for my ignorance.. I've been researching the best I can, and everyone says to go with a double roller, but I haven't really seen why yet.

 

I found this article at Hotrod that may help. I think for the difference of a couple of bucks to go with the best.

A timing chain is a timing chain, right? Actually, there are several variations of this tried-and-true connection between the crank and cam. The starting point is the silent-type that uses a link-back chain riding on a pair of straight-cut sprockets. This design uses four (or more) links per section, more than other timing chain designs, and the sprocket teeth are larger, making this variety perhaps the strongest chaindrive available. Regardless, the silent chain has been shunned by hot rodders due to the fact that many OE sets have a nylon-coated cam sprocket that’s quiet but has a nasty tendency to strip after major overheating or many thousands of miles. When used with quality, non-coated, heat-treated alloy gears, the link-back cam drive is a valid low-cost timing set.

Roller chains replaced silent chains on many factory-built high-performance packages, so it was natural for hot rodders to follow suit. Unlike the straight-cut sprockets (or spur gears) used in silent-type cam drives, roller sprockets have sharply pointed teeth that locate and receive the pins of the chain during operation. Excepting some single-row AMC applications, most roller chains and gears feature double-roller construction. Economy versions use cast- metal sprockets and chains with 0.200-diameter seamless pins. A little more money buys extra strength in the form of 0.220-diameter pins and heat-treated sprockets.

Finally there are the true-rollers, named after the fact that each pin is surrounded by a seamless steel bushing that rolls around the sprocket, providing a reduction in rotational friction. True roller chains usually feature even larger 0.250-diameter pins, and high-end offerings can include Magnaflux-inspected billet steel gears that are multi-indexed for alternate cam phasing, plus Torrington bearings to fit between the cam sprocket and block.

 

correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't I read you can only use the double true roller with electric water pumps. If you have the stock water pump, they will not fit.

ZZZASY
'96 LT4

 

whoah, thats very interesting if this is true. i would like to hear more about this :lurk:

 

I think thats right for an LT1/LT4.

Not so on an L98, double rollers fit just just fine.

 

I would use a "pete jackson gear drive". This takes the place of your timing chain and will never strech.It's about $95 from summit.IMHO the timing chain is a week link in SBC motors.I have never pulled apart a motor that had big mileage on it without the chain being shot-out. :chevy

 

Corkvette1 just install a Crane double roller Summit # CRN-1198 on my 383. Only mod required was to put a cheap front cover on it and it had to be pounded out a little for gear clearance.

 

Speed750.. I think gears are falling out of favor with racers. I've read about them setting up bad harmonics, and vibration in the valve train. My $.02

:chevy

 

The you've got rubber belts for both wet and dry applications. Really pricey though.

Jake

 

I personally wouldn't install an $11 piece to hold my $3,700 engine together!

:seeya

 

For reference, the original GM timing chain can be bought for about $20 (plus shipping).

I plan on buying the Cloyes. I was just hoping someone would tell me WHY it's so much better. So far the answer seems to be Cloyes = > 80k miles and stock = 80k miles. Then timing starts becoming less accurate.

 

Timing chain sets are splash lubed. One of the tricks is to drill a .030 hole in one of the oil gallery plugs located behind the timing chain camshaft gear to allow pressurized oil to spray on the chain/gear assembly.

Extends the life of the chain.

Jake

 

:cool: I am filing that in the back of my head for future reference! :cool:

Althought 0.030 seems like an awful lot, it seems like you've be stealing much needed flow from other areas, a smaller hole would do the same job without any repurcussions.


[Modified by NoWorries, 12:57 PM 12/21/2003]