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Before I went to my 12 rib setup, I also fabbed up a chain drive for my unit... Procharger tech support in my opinion isn't worth much of anything. They weren't sure if the (motorcycle) chain drive would live on the street, but I'm gonna find out real soon if my belt starts to slip. I think turbos and superchargers are both great, and we're all on the same side here... I wasn't trying to start a war, I was simply saying that heat would appear to be a problem with the turbos... With that being said, John Meanie's turbos are mounted up high and have never been a problem.... Supposedly he makes 1200-1300hp. on a SB2 headed small block...It would be hard to make that kind of HP with a belt driven supercharger, BUT, like I said... can you really use 1200 hp on the street, or on the strip with an IRS... no....
If I were going to do a TT set up on a C4, I would DEFINATELY mount them up high as I would not want to deal with pumping the oil up from the turbo reservior tank, etc. I would do it just like John Meanie. Of course his was all custom.... guessing it was not cheap......Look, all you need to do is buy a AC/DC Tig welder and learn how to weld stainless.... not that big of a deal... buy some flanges and elbows and get to work.... As I understand it the price of plumbing everything is what cost the most money. For those of you that want turbos mounted down low, can't callaway assist here with parts, diagrams, etc....? Go on the web and search for pictures. I was thinkg abount dount a TT setup on my big block, but just didn't have any room. The TT setup would have allowed me to keep the radiator in the stock location, etc...
I understand you weren't trying to start a war, you were simply stating a good fact. Turbos do creat a lot of heat, but there are ways to get around that and maintain cool engine temps. I like the idea of mounting the turbos down low, hidden like most of the C5 setups. A 1,000 horses is hard to hook no matter what setup you have, turbo/supercharger, IRS/solid axle, don't you have 1,000+ in your vette? I like turbos because when you get that much power, you still maintain drivability as long as your not on the gas all the time! I just want something different and endless amount of power along with drivability, since no one makes a turbo kit yet for the C4, making a custom setup myself would set my car apart as well as having the satisfaction and taking pride in doing it myself. This is just my .02 cents.
I absolutely agree with everything you've said....
I just rembered talking to a guy a year or so ago when I was thinking of going the TT route. His name is Lance and can be reached at (541) 267-4331. His website is http://www.jgstools.com/turbo His prices are very reasonable from what I remember. He builds log style stainless exhaust manifolds as well as providing other turbo related advice. He has a kit where he sends you the flanged logs (to the head), you mark where/how you want the exhaust turbo flanges to exit, and then you send them back to him and he welds them up... I think the log type manifolds are probably as good as any unless you're looking for insane levels of HP.
When I rescued my motor is was bound for a blown alcohol funny car. As a result it is (hopefully) built to withstand insane amounts of boost that would no doubt put in in the 2000hp range if pushed hard...(notwithstanding detonation, exhaust restrictions, etc). I am hoping to put down 1000hp at the rear wheels. It sounds like a good number, but I'll simply just have to wait and see how the car acts once I get it on the road....I may have to detune it even more as I'm guessing that 600-700hp would be more than enough... All of my friends call my car the "grim reaper" since it is black and will most definately try to kill me everytime I get in it......
With all that additional HP and torque, did either of you have any specifics in mind for "hardening up" components in the drivetrain behind the engine to keep them from breaking? Thanks...
I plan to use my 315 drag radials as a fusible link by regulating the amount of air they hold. I have a street twin clutch, a full heim joint suspension, an exotic muscle built third member, and all new heavy duty u-joints, etc.
Nevertheless, I have a suspicion that Jeb and I are going to become real good friends....
Thanks for the info! I had a hunch there might be some cryo treatment involved eventually. As for the cooling system, I'm also assuming you'll be using one of the larger aftermarket radiators. As far as the under hood heat is concerned, are you aware of those cowl vents? Check out Mr. Magoo's sig pic if you're not. If you're concerned about water getting in, apparently they've got baffles that prevent this but from what Magoo says, plenty of heat gets out: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...ofile&id=25820
Tonydee64, I will have to look into that site. I was considering logs, because they are easier to weld, and I plan on doing all the welding myself. I am giving it more thought and figured I am better off in the long haul if I use 304/321 stainless steel. I don't think I could have someone build me and type of exhaust manifolds without having my car to work on. I am looking to do a single turbo rather then twins. Thanks for the option though. I can't wait to see what your car is going to run!
tobijohn, I haven't even started my build up yet. Right now I am taking a break from cleaning out my garage to put my vette in :jester I am only doing heads and cam for right now, thats all the money I have, but in the near future I plan on doing a turbo setup depending on college. I am just getting ideas and advice on what to go with and how to build my setup. As far as my drivetrain, I blew the stock 700r4 on nitrous and now have a probuilt trans in there which should hold up for a little while, and the stock dana 36 with 2:59's:sleep: I plan on getting a cryoed dana 44 with a 3:45-3:73 and if my trans decides to go, a built up 400 with an OD should solve my problem.
Turbocharged Power, I appreciate you posting about your kits. I was wondering though if you can give us any details on the twin turbo kit? Are the turbos mounted high or down low? What turbos are you using? Intercooled? Approx. pricing? Thanks for any help you may be able to give.
I plan to use my 315 drag radials as a fusible link by regulating the amount of air they hold. I have a street twin clutch, a full heim joint suspension, an exotic muscle built third member, and all new heavy duty u-joints, etc.
Nevertheless, I have a suspicion that Jeb and I are going to become real good friends....
Tonydee64, I will have to look into that site. I was considering logs, because they are easier to weld, and I plan on doing all the welding myself. I am giving it more thought and figured I am better off in the long haul if I use 304/321 stainless steel. I don't think I could have someone build me and type of exhaust manifolds without having my car to work on. I am looking to do a single turbo rather then twins. Thanks for the option though. I can't wait to see what your car is going to run!
tobijohn, I haven't even started my build up yet. Right now I am taking a break from cleaning out my garage to put my vette in :jester I am only doing heads and cam for right now, thats all the money I have, but in the near future I plan on doing a turbo setup depending on college. I am just getting ideas and advice on what to go with and how to build my setup. As far as my drivetrain, I blew the stock 700r4 on nitrous and now have a probuilt trans in there which should hold up for a little while, and the stock dana 36 with 2:59's:sleep: I plan on getting a cryoed dana 44 with a 3:45-3:73 and if my trans decides to go, a built up 400 with an OD should solve my problem.
Just remember, turbo motors like to be loaded. KInda like a nitro motor. I have 3,45's in my 44 and gears are over so quickly that max boost isn't even achived until late 2nd early 3rd. low gears are what they like. and it helps with mileage when you arn't screwing around. As a side note, on can typically get away with a looser a/r on the hot side with an auto because you don't have to let off in btween gears and get to flash the converter on the launch. (than means more power)
Just remember, turbo motors like to be loaded. KInda like a nitro motor. I have 3,45's in my 44 and gears are over so quickly that max boost isn't even achived until late 2nd early 3rd. low gears are what they like. and it helps with mileage when you arn't screwing around. As a side note, on can typically get away with a looser a/r on the hot side with an auto because you don't have to let off in btween gears and get to flash the converter on the launch. (than means more power)
Maybe I would be better off with just 3.07's. I was considering swapping in a 6 speed, they are more fun. Although an auto is better in the long run and could handle more power longer. I was considering a g-force T56 trans, but I am not sure how to bolt it up to the dana 44, and deffinitely have to get a custom driveshaft made, thats a lot more money, Im better off sticking with the auto, but shifting is so much fun especially with the blow off valve going off!
That guy with the '93 twin turbo did a t56. I don't know why. Jeb (mr. cryo) has a 396 with a 250 shot in front of his zf-6 and drops the hammer at 5500 then pushes the button on 800ft/lbs at the 60' mark. He told me he has so many passes on his zf without trouble that he sold his spare. After hearing that I have no worries. He'll be getting my tranny soon to go into his fridge.....
The guy you are talking about with the turbo '93 e-mail address is Doug@jdhcon.com
He has a kit to mount the t56 to the Vette rear axle. He told me that the Street twin is horrible in front of the ZF6 (since it usually requires a dual mass flywheel), we shall see as soon as the snow melts...
Aahhh he doesn't like the clikkity clack huh? That was a common thing at the shop. Guys would come in with single mass flywheels and clutches. we'd install them. only to take them back out a month later because they didn't like the noise it made at idle with the clutch out. That doesn't bother me at all. just don't idle it with the clutch out. The noise is just that -noise. I was told that it won't hurt a thing in the trans or motor.
I went to a single mass because I smoked the original on NOS. It was pretty noisy and was embarassing at the drive thru's. I eventually killed that one as well and I have the dual mass again. I don't think that it will take much abuse with the turbo though. That guy with the twins and the T56 has a killer car, but it is all HIGH dollar. Way way way out of my league. My friend talked to him, I guess he's cool.
Probably would share his ideas.
The guy you are talking about with the turbo '93 e-mail address is Doug@jdhcon.com
He has a kit to mount the t56 to the Vette rear axle. He told me that the Street twin is horrible in front of the ZF6 (since it usually requires a dual mass flywheel), we shall see as soon as the snow melts...
So it is possible to mount a T56 in my car??? Do you have any idea how much it would cost to get on of these kits? This is awesome! I don't want the noisy ZF6, plus there are tons of aftermarket T56's that handle a lot of power! I'll go with a cryoed g-force T56 with a twin disc, that should hold up to anything I can throw at it!
I have no idea how much he would charge.. BUT.... go out and buy yourself a small Mig welder and fab something up yourself... all you have to do is use the cross member point of the T56 tranny and fab up a bracket that fastens to your tourque arm. I remember seeing his fab work and thinking that it could be easily duplicated.. As soon as I tear mine up... that's exactly what I'll do...(G-force T56)....
I dunno brother, Ive seen both trannies apart and it would appear that the zf is a MUCH heavier duty trans. The gears, everything are much heavier. the only weaK part is the dual cone clutch syncros. they do NOT like powershifting. Another thing that makes it much more heavy duty is the fact that their are nine(9) tool steel shift rods encompassing all the gears around the perimiter of the case. The borg box has 2. and Much less meat in the case and width of the gears. Allof my friends with z06's, '02 ss, and '02 trans am with the t-56 box has destroyed at least 1 and one of them 3 (the n20 snorting zo6)
Sure you can spend a bunch of money making them strong but now your into $3000 plus and then some fabrication to get it in! Hell at that point you might just as well buy a richmond 6 speed made for the vette and just throw it in in a matter of hours. A twin disc is $1000 for either the borg or the zf so there is no savings there. For my money Id just keep the zf-6. For you car, id just spend the money on a 400 w/a brake and spend the money you saved on you're turbo setup. two vnt-37's parked right in front of the rear end. Air filters in the storage compartments, and a water /air intercooler on the way back to the motor. No labor intensive mainifolds, more centalized mass, and very very sneaky.!
I saw that Richmond has a 6 speed in the latest Summit catalog (or Jegs, can't remeber), but it said that it was a replacement for the 1985 4+3, but it did state that it had the torque arm fastener ( I was wondering if that would fit my 1991) ... Oh yes, if Richmond has a bolt in 6-speed, I'm there as soon as I tear this one up... On second thought,.... anybody want to buy a ZF6-speed with 40,000 miles on it... never raced or abused.....? Me run an automatic.... NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's a Corvette man, not a Caprice.. ( I know, I know... it's just not my personal preference.....)