C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

'87 cam, header, and head question

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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 04:17 PM
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Default '87 cam, header, and head question

Hi everyone. I've searched the archives and I still need help. I have an automatic '87 L98. Mods are street chip, K&N w/open airbox, air foil in TB (yeah I know), 3.07 rear, and very open exhaust...

It's a weekend "fun" car - not a serious racer. Just something to play with on the weekends. I have gotten used to the power it produces and I want to get a little more kick in the shorts when I lay into it.

My questions:

1) I was going to do heads, cam, and shorty headers. Good idea or bad? Remember, it's a weekend car - I don't need everything to be matched perfectly and have everything optimized for flow and everything else. Just a combo that I can feel.

2) If it is agreed that these mods are worth it, can anyone suggest the part numbers for cams, headers, and heads that they have used in their L98s with good results?

3) Should I just go out and buy a crate engine someplace and toss it in? Has anyone done an engine swap in an L98 without totally changing computers and sensors and everything else?

The engine has 72k miles on it now and the valve seals are leaking. It's time to do something about it, and while the engine's out, I figure I might as well have some fun.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer. Take care,
Mike
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 04:31 PM
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Default Re: '87 cam, header, and head question (Listoff)

1) Basically a good idea but do LT headers, not shorties along with full exhaust mods.
2) I like the TPIS headers, ported #113 heads (or port your Al heads) and a ZZ-9 cam with 1.5:1 ProMagnum RRs, Ti retainers, 10deg locks, 7/16" studs, hardened guides & pushrods, new valve seals & springs.
3) I'm not sure about the trade off against a crate engine; run the numbers and do the $$ math. Don't foreget some things will be needed even with the new motor.

You will also need to do some intake work. Cheapest is to just siamese the intake base; or you could go with BM base & LT runners for a nice match.

Then have a TransGo shift kit installed and shift points raised to around 6k RPM.

This will give you a very streetable package that's realy fun to drive. Take a look at the "L98 mods Results Data" on my site (link in sig. below) to see what such mods will bring in the way of gains.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 04:37 PM
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Default Re: '87 cam, header, and head question (65Z01)

Wow, good answer and fast! Thanks!

Raise the shift points to 6k? Can an L98 handle that stress? My redline is at 5,500 RPM I think. I don't want to hurt the engine. A friend of my father's raised the shift points on his C5 and busted it.

Of course... A blown engine would require a rebuild, wouldn't it... :-)
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:01 PM
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Default Re: '87 cam, header, and head question (Listoff)

The bottom end should handle it. I believe that red line is mostly due to the valve train which is a little heavy. I don't think the stock springs will handle more than the current red line without floating out.

Currently my 2-3 shift point is (a little high) 5,800rpm with Ti retainers, Comp Cams springs and lightened valve train.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:18 PM
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Default Re: '87 cam, header, and head question (Listoff)

Your stock heads are 128 heads, which need some porting, but are pretty good heads unless you really wanted a serious machine.

Shorty headers are not worth the money, they save weight but add very little HP for the price. I would get TPiS or Hooker 2149 headers with a 16720 or custom front Y.

Something in the range of the Accel 74211 cam or ZZ9 cam from TPiS would be good with some largetube AS&M runners and a ported base manifold. Or you can buy a bigger base manifold, since they flow more off the shelf than yours will even after porting. I would look at Edelbrocks, Tpis', accel's versions of those. Then port the plenum and upgrade the valvetrain for the cam, and youre done enginewise.

Adding a higher stall TC will really give you the kick in the pants feel you want too, though a tranny cooler would really extend the life of the transmission and would be a better first mod if you plan to go that way.

Be aware though, that any cam change will require a customized chip for your computer. Dont believe the manufacturers who say otherwise.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:38 PM
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Default

Budget? :)
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:43 PM
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Default Re: (scorp508)

Haha... Ummm, yeah... A budget. I forgot about that. :-)

I'd have to get this stuff piece at a time and then put it all together at once most likely. I don't want to go more than $2,500 if I can help it. That doesn't seem very likely though.

I'm also concerned about the 700R4 automatic transmission in it. Can a stock tranny handle all this stuff? If not, there's an easy $3k on a heavy duty rebuild.

Basically, I'll buy this stuff piece by piece and store it in a garage. I'm hoping I can sell my old exhaust and old 2.59 rear and put that cash back into more mods.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 06:07 PM
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Default Re: (Listoff)

If I'm going to spend $2,500 on headers and exhaust alone, maybe I should consider $3k and get a turbo?

I guess I should add that I paid $14k for the car. While I love the car, I don't want to spend more on mods than the car's actually worth. What one or two mods can I make that'll give the most bang for the buck?

I'm doing 0-60 in a consistant 5.1 seconds when I hook up now. If I can spend $1k and add 50 horse, that's the stuff I'm basically looking for at this point.

I really thank eveyone for thier input. I'm learning a ton about my car this weekend.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 06:09 PM
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Default Re: (Listoff)

If you take your time deals can be had. :yesnod: I bought most of my own stuff used over a period of 1.5-2 years and ended up spending ~$3000 for my heads/cam/intake/exhaust.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 06:15 PM
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Default Re: (Listoff)

Price out your hand porting of your stock heads with some shop work (David Vizard's book on porting SBC heads will point the right direction), 2.00"/1.55" valves and the like, ProMagnum RRs, etc., the cam with gears & chain, etc and see where you are on budget; don't foreget to add in gaskets, lubes and any new tools.

If your A4 is heathy now the shift kit will help to assure it stays that way, even with the new mods. If not a requild with some upgraded components should come in under $1k. I got such a rebuild with shift kit & 2,000rpm TC installed for under $1.5k.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 10:02 PM
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Default Re: (Listoff)


I'm also concerned about the 700R4 automatic transmission in it. Can a stock tranny handle all this stuff? If not, there's an easy $3k on a heavy duty rebuild.
Thats why I want you to get a Tranny cooler installed, the heat generated in the 700r4 is typically what causes the fluid to breakdown and things start breaking. It should hold up until you get it over 400tq, at that point its a gray area. Shift kits and coolers help greatly, but when you get over that much, its hit or miss.
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