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When you get the old shifter out and remove the main large pin that holds the attaches the linkage to the shift mechanism inside the tranny. Remove the pin from the shift and chamfer one end of the pin. When you reinstall this pin into the new shifter linkage make sure that the chamfered end goes in first. This will make driving it throught the other pin a little easier. It worked for me any way.
Be careful getting the rubber boot off. When I took mine off it tore all the way around and now that area gets loud and hot. I think it has glue on it, but I forget...a couple years ago I did the install.
Use plenty of the lube the kit came with and have patience when adjusting the spring for reverse.
I did mine only with the Hurst shifter. The instructions for the Hurst will be pretty much the same as yours. See if you can get a copy of their instructions. Just search for Hurst or Mr. Gasket for the site and ask. They faxed me instructions as I wanted to know what was involved. My lower boot was badly cut from a previous job so I ordered one from ZF in NY. The most tedious part of the job was reinstalling the upper boot. Just keep your patience. I also followed the Helms Service manual for consul removal and exploded views, etc. Oh, the shift **** removal was hard as the key that holds everything tight was very hard to remove in my shifter. A strong pair of vice grips and a strong kid finally did the job.
I did a lot of research on exhaust for our models. If you want just a little more noise and no resonance Corsa is nice. I helped a friend install these on his 94 LT1 and they were very high quality, looks and sounds nice. HOWEVER, if you want more noise and don't mind resonance too much then Billy Boat's are for you. I'm going with B&Bs as soon as I can swing it.
i got a used SLP system off a 92 and a shop told me it wouldnt fit but looking at it side by side with stock it seems like a match.......I'll know Sunday :D