Vader, none of these above radiator manufacturers are paying sponsors of this corvetteforum. Without sponsors, you have no forum. So it would be nice to be included when mentioning upgrades. I'm not going to single you out on this one, it's done all the time. Sometimes I wonder what I'm doing wrong. I'm the only one (radiators) sponsoring the forums, I spend tens of thousands of dollars on ads in every Corvette magazine out there, we have one of the most comprehensive website on corvette cooling, and we are the only true "direct fit". :confused:

A comment on larger water pumps. First, GM engineers know more about optimising the cooling system than all of us put together. They test, and test, and test until they find the best flow rate for a given radiator. Each radiator has a peak perfomance based on flow and I'm willing to bet the bank that it's with the stock water pump. Another thing to think about is that the connection on a 84-89 are only 1 1/4" in size, and if you have an automatic, the outlet is 80% blocked by the cooler inside. I don't know what more flow is going to accomplish. I find this arguement a tie when it comes to flow. Half the people swear by high flow pumps, the other half swear by restrictor plates that slow it down.

If you were to upgrade (sponsor!) to a new double row aluminum radiator, THEN you might want to go with the larger water pump. I say this because the additional tubes will handle the flow and you want turbulence in the core. Now I haven't done the testing on what flow is best, but I'm sure its more than the stock one. If you are going to replace one thing first, make it the radiator. This is the foundation of your cooling system and you can build on it. Remember this:

Fan =move air
Pumps =move water
Radiators =move heat (and isn't that what the goal is)

 

In your case, I think I'd stay with the WW. I don't know how much it helps but it probably doesn't hurt either. Someday I'd like to send a bottle to a lab and find out whats in there.

Here in Michigan we have the annual Woodward dream cruise in August. Guaranteed to be 90-100* out and five miles per hour in the traffic, if moving at all. Most stock system are not designed for this and overheat. I tell guys all the time that one day on straight water isn't going to eat up your system. Just change it back the next day. If you want to add a couple bottles of ww for luck, it isn't going to hurt. Maybe you have two different coolant packages, just save and bottle it after every race. Distilled water in both mixes of course! :cool:

 

Many times a new motor will run hot as it breaks in and the rings set. You didn't mention the actually temps you are seeing but I assume it's 230-240 if you're spilling over. Make sure you have a 50/50 mix, not straight antifreeze and that the fans are operating correctly. You could actually cheat a little at first with a 60/40 mix until you get a few miles on the engine. Verify the radiator that was installed. You said "the system is new" but that could be a downgraded copper radiator in there?

 

I don't have time for that on a regular basis. Besides, I have a hard time capturing the coolant when I drain it. Consequently, my car is getting two, flush and fills per year. Excess heat is NOT one of my problems. I DO run WW, because I think it helps me cool off between rounds. From April until October, it is H20 and WW, only. My concern is cooling system protection during the racing season. Any advice? Favorite products?

RACE ON!!!

 

The radiator is aluminium with plastic tanks. It quite often spits the water out as low as 215 which I am sure isn't right. I have tried a few differnt caps from 16lb to 20 lb with the same result. I am wondering wether the neck of the radiator is too deep and the cap doesn't quite seat properly hence not holding pressure at heat soak when first turned off.
As soon as it cools a bit it sucks the water back in but when it overflows from the tank sometimes there is not enough water to fill the radiator again.

 

Then why even bother with all this if you have no temp issues? I can't say if the ww is protecting the radiator or not and I don't know of any product that will as good as Dex-cool. I would probably use a 60/40 or a 70/30 before I'd go straight water. The worst thing that could happen is you ruin the radiator, a new stock one can be bought on ebay for less than $100. You might upgrade to the double row and you have enough radiator to run 50/50.

 

Often people simply over fill the system and it spills over trying to find a natural level. If you stop adding fluid it might just stop spilling over once it establishing the proper level. 215 isn't hot, keep driving.

 

Worked it out this afternoon, the radiator cap was dodgey. Iput anew one on at it seems to be holding pressure OK.

 

The "few" caps of different pressures you previously tried were all dodgy?

Dick

 

I entered this thread to make the comment on radiator construction being more important than the material used. A comment, you endorsed.

Antifreeze is not ALLOWED at my track. Additives, are. I am simply asking if you know of a product that will provide corrosion inhibition and water pump lube in the absence of antifreeze.

 

Redline sez Waterwetter provides corrosion protection. http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
I normally take manufactuers claims with a big grain of salt, but Redline seems to be a cut above many of them.

 

I had never considered that, or looked into it. I appreciate the feedback and the link.

CFI-EFI

 

My old 17lb cap wouldn't hold pressure, and 3 different 20lb caps I tried seemed loose and also wouldn't hold pressure. So I tried a new 16lb one, it seemed tight enough and holds pressure nicely. I wanted to get a genuine one on Saturday but had to work in the morning and the store was closed by the time I got there. All the caps I tried were aftermarket. Just goes to show doesn't it.

 

I didn't know antifreeze was not allowed at tracks. I don't understand the reason the rule, it makes no sense to me.

As I said, I just don't know if WW has enough inhibitor to save your radiator. They say it does, so in your case I'd use it. I really have no problem with ww as a product and useage in special cases like yours. I do have a problem with it being a solution to overheating when the radiator is dead, that all. :leaving:

 

Thanks Tom.

I looked on here for a rad service and came up with nothing. I will tell you if i have any problems this summer i'll be in touch with you as a direct bolt in replacement is what i would be looking for, the other ones requoir cutting up the car.

Mike

 

Tom,
I can't speak for any other tracks, but it is disallowed at my track, in the non, street legal classes, due to cleanup time. Antifreeze takes a lot longer to clean up than water. A spill or blown engine is enough of a mess. Antifreeze only makes it worse. Synthic oil is also, much harder to clean up, but I don't think they're going to try to tackle THAT problem. That makes perfect sense. I agree. Thanks for your input and feedback.

RACE ON!!!