Okay, so there I was, all excited yesterday. Put on a new fuel filter and IAC valve. I also found the two hoses that were cracked and preventing my cruise from working. Car runs like a dream. Better than its ever run since I got it in Oct. The weather in Dallas was decent, a little cloudy, but dry, so I went for an extended drive around town. So then I through a code 15. No big deal. Car has 180k on it. So i stop at autozone and pick up the $10 Coolant temp sensor.

So this morning, I put the coolant sensor on. Go for a drive. I don't get a friggin mile and it dies. It seemed to be running rich...and would barely hold any idle at all. Completely ruined my mood. So I take it home, dump it in the garage, grab my truck and go about my errands.

Okay, so long story longer....I get home and start to take a look at things. ONe of my injectors, has completely blown its lid. The little purple part on top that has wires coming out of it is completely unhinged. Of course the injector is all wet.

Anyone ever heard of this? Will it just pop back in or is this gonna keep happening and i just need a new injector? They may all be originals so they may all be on their last legs.

 

With that kind of mileage it would definately benefit you to replace the injectors. i used accel 24 lb on my 85 and man what a differance.
good luck
john :chevy

 

Go with Ford motorsports injectors the quality is much better!

 

Have heard that the ford injectors are better than Accel.... :thumbs:

 

So how do those things come out? I pulled off the electrical connector. And pulled aside the retainer ring. I can tell the injector is bad, it is obviously leaking. It has a completely different color than the others. The main body is sorta brownish while the other injectors are a distinct gray color.

Do i need to replace all of them? And where does one get these?

 

Pick up a set of Ford Motorsports 24# injectors. There's a guy that sells them new for $150 for all 8 of them on eBay, or they can be had for slightly more at most of the online parts stores.

You'll also want to pick up an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Holley seems to make a good one. It'll run you about 80 bucks.

 

The service manual says that the fuel rail has to be off to remove these. Is this the case?

 

Yep.. which means the upper plenum will also have to come off.

It won't be a 10 minute swap, but it's pretty straight forward.

 

Ouch, i guess while i am in there i ought to sway out all of 'em.

 

Your car should have come from the factory with gray looking injectors which are GM Multec injectors. The "brown one" has been replaced by a previous owner. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the Multecs as they are a problem waiting to happen! I have a set of Lucas in my 89! For whats it worth, you can change out the injectors WITHOUT removing the runners. Just remove the plenum! Let me know if you want details on the process as removing the runners is a pain in the ****! I replaced my injectors two months ago.


[Modified by Sam Lam, 10:05 PM 1/19/2004]

 

Sam - please post your procedures.

I changed my '90 injectors last summer, and had to remove the fuel rails. I'd like to see how it can be done w/o removal. As I recall, I had to lift the rail to provide room to pull the injectors out...

thanks -

 

I think he was saying you don't have to remove intake runners. The plenum still has to come off and the fuel rails must come up like you said to get the injectors out.

 

My:'94,LT1,A4 with114K began to 'miss-fire',lost power.Replaced 'em all with the Ford #24's.Now she runs like "Johnny Be Good".
Got um at:http://www.jegs.com/. For $230.78, on the Brown Truck delivered to my door. They same w/o instructions, if ya need help send me e-mail.


Race on.

 

So is it necessary to get a pressure regulator when I get these? My cars has only minor mods.

 

I'm still using the orignal, works great!

 

I had a similar problem, fuel injectors were all messed up and wouldnt run a clean idle and would shut off after about 30 seconds. :banghead: :mad

 

Technically your car will be alright if you run the Ford 24#'s without an adjustable regulator.. you will however be running rich, and your computer will be running in overtime trying to compensate.

 

Here are the steps to remove injectors without removing the RUNNERs and sorry they are so long:

I replaced the Multec injectors in my 89 - 350 TPI just before Thanksgiving and was using the GM Helms manual as a guide. This is the second time I have removed the injectors and I followed the manual's steps on the first removal. The runners are not easily removed as the valve covers do not allow "straight access" to the pesky Torx bolts. Therefore, you must remove the valve covers.....and this is not easy on our Vetts!

Just for the "fun of it" make sure the new injectors all fit the electrical connectors on your engine...sounds like an assumption...one of my injectors did not fit. Had to do a little filing!

Here is what I did to install new injectors:

1. Remove one battery connection.
2. Remove the cables to the butterfly valve on the throttle body and remove the cable bracket on the side of the plenum.
3. While on that side of the engine, remove the vacuum line on the back and bottom of the plenum. Use a spanner wrench so that you do not "booger up" the 5/8 nut.
4. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (driver side) and note what length goes where.
5. Go to the other side of the engine and disconnect the IAC, TPI MAF connections.
6. Remove the flexible hose from the air filter to the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the water line to the TB (consider a TB bypass during re-assembly and I got pictures...it will cost you less than $5).
8. Disconnect the various vacuum lines on that side of the plenum as there are 4 to 5 as I recall. Note there is one line under the plenum and is easy to miss!
9. Remove the throttle body.
10. Remove the upper runner Torx bolts (passenger side).
11. At this point, make sure all runner bolts are removed and all connections to plenum are disconnected. Using a rubber or soft face hammer, slightly tap "upwards" under the plenum and the plenum will come loose from the runners. Do not remove the lower runner bolts. Lift up and remove the plenum. Place this on a secure surface. If you drop it, you will cry!
12. Remove the two fuel lines (front of engine) that go to and from the fuel rail. Use a spanner wrench for this.
13. Remove the two fuel lines (crossways to engine top) in front and back of the rail assembly. Note that a small Torx screw secures a bracket (that holds that end of the line) on each fuel rail. The back line (and brackets) is a little difficult, but work with it.
14. Remove the EGR valve.
15. The passenger rail is easiest to remove. Grab the front of the rail with one hand and the back of the rail with the other hand. Rock the rail assembly side to side while pulling upwards. Be careful as the thing will suddenly turn loose and you can damage the runner. After the four injectors break loose, rotate the top of the fuel rail toward the center of the engine and raise upwards. That rail will just come out!
16. The other rail is removed the same way but required a special twist to get it out. Just work with it, have a cold beer and you can get it out.
17. Assembly is just the opposite sequence.

Sorry to take so long, but I would rather give too much details than too little.
Do yourself a favor and use NEW "O" rings on the fuel rail lines and injectors as they are cheap compared to another teardown! Hint: lubricate all the "O" rings with light oil for ease of re-assembly.

Hope this is helpful!

Sam

 

Sam, thanks for all the info. I work the next two days then have 7 off so I'll be knee deep in it for awhile doing some much needed work. Now, this may be a stupid question. But, is there enough room to elevate the fuel rails primarily and not have to take anything off at all? It looks to me, especially on the drivers side that you can get the fuel rail up an inch or two would should :confused: allow for removal of the injectors. I am probably wrong, it just looks that way to the very untrained eye.
One last thing. I dont have any EGR issues right now, but my car has 180k on it. I have no service history on it, so is it advisable while I'm down there to go ahead and replace the EGR valve?

 

Damn, I thought there was a big sale on injectors :smash: :smash: