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Been there, done that too. Although the seal tore on mine when I was putting the cover on so it was obvious when it happened. $8 seal from a dealer - I couldn't find any local part stores that sold just the seal. You can remove the seal with the cover on - pry it out using the slot on the top of the seal. I was able to get the new seal on by just being more careful and lubing it up real good. It is a lot easier working with just the seal to install it without special tools. Practically impossible to install the whole cover with seal already installed without the right tool.
Which part is the part that needs to go down in there.. the orange or the little black piece? I just checked it again now that the waterpump is on and it looks to me like the little black piece has gone back in there. I tried to get some pics, but they didn't come out too well.
Oh, and i SOMEHOW bent my power steering pulley. I think it happened when i was taking out that far right waterpump bolt. I can't figure out how to bend it back. It's probably bent 1mm or so... just enough so that when I turn it I can see it's not straight. Any ideas on that?
Curtis, I hate to alarm you again. But when doing my cam change, I didn't replace my timing cover crank seal, and it leaked. It was really a pain to tear the car down again, and pull the timing cover off just to change the seal.
BTW, my car only had 15,000 miles on it at the time of the cam change.
Curtis, I hate to alarm you again. But when doing my cam change, I didn't replace my timing cover crank seal, and it leaked. It was really a pain to tear the car down again, and pull the timing cover off just to change the seal.
BTW, my car only had 15,000 miles on it at the time of the cam change.
Hmm.. well, I have it almost all the way back together already. Just a matter of putting in the radiator and MAF and coil. I had a leak before, but I think that it was the crank sensor. Now that it is all clean, I should be able to notice where a leak comes from. Getting down to the timing cover really didn't take that long. It took as long to get the crank hub off as it did everything else combined and next time getting the crank hub off should be easier. For now, i'm going to see how it works... if the crank seal starts leaking, then I'll take the timing cover back off and replace all of the seals on the timing cover. I don't have a job right now so I've got lots of free time, haha.
BTW, here are a couple pics of the water pump drive seal right now. i think that the seal backed itself in when i turned the engine over getting the crank hub on... I can't remember if the orange part is the part of the seal that needs to go down in there or if it's the black part inside of that (which was sticking out on the other picture)
GM High-Tech Performance Magazine just ran an article on a HotCam install and talks about the seal issue. Mar 2004 issue.
I have the mag here at home and saw it on the shelf at the grocery store (Tom Thumb) yesterday so it's still available. Has a red "F" body with a SLP 427 on the cover with white hood striping.
i used a tip from a machinist that helped me get the hub back on. first i bought a 3 inch heat treated bolt from a fastener store. then i heated the hub up [with whatever is available to you]. It slid on like cow poopie.
i used a tip from a machinist that helped me get the hub back on. first i bought a 3 inch heat treated bolt from a fastener store. then i heated the hub up [with whatever is available to you]. It slid on like cow poopie.
yeah, i'm heating it up next time i have to get it on. I guess i can always use my heat gun to heat it up for getting it off next time too :D
GM High-Tech Performance Magazine just ran an article on a HotCam install and talks about the seal issue. Mar 2004 issue.
I have the mag here at home and saw it on the shelf at the grocery store (Tom Thumb) yesterday so it's still available. Has a red "F" body with a SLP 427 on the cover with white hood striping.
You might want to check it out.
Jake
Well crap... now i find out about this. That's definitely going in the TECH TIP!!! haha. We'll see how bad mine leaks. I'm crossing my fingers that it won't... very much at least.
Alright, she's running.. kind of. I've got a valve train tapping noise that I'm trying to figure out. Also threw a check engine light. Running pretty rough right now. Going to hook up the laptop to see what it says.
1) I think the tapping is going away. I torqued down the rockers to the 18ft/lb you're supposed to, but this was before running it so i have a feeling that bled all the oil out of a lifter. It has started getting quieter.
2) I have a leak in or by the oil filter adapter. Pretty big... had a nice buddle on the garage.
3) Computer is giving DTC of "High Map" ... Map pressure is around 75 at idle.
Have you checked to see that definately tightened all the rocker arms? and that you did this while the engine was at TDC and then 360 degrees for the remaining rocker arms mentioned.. and that you torqued them to the proper torque? I know i am guilty of having a loose rocker arm after a cam install on more then one account.. always miss one for some reason. check this. also not trying to alarm you but are you absolutely certain those dots were lined up perfect on the timing set? i know its sometimes hard to see very clearly from the strange angles you get to look at them, but it is hard to notice one tooth off... this could cause some very odd symtoms like glowing headers or severe poor run quality as well as notching some of your pistons. if you find a loose rocker, and eveyrhting runs smoothly then your probably alright. just rethink your install you'll sort it out.. PS if a rocker starts clacking that bad you will get the SES light.. i know this no fun! good luck and keep us posted!
Have you checked to see that definately tightened all the rocker arms? and that you did this while the engine was at TDC and then 360 degrees for the remaining rocker arms mentioned.. and that you torqued them to the proper torque? I know i am guilty of having a loose rocker arm after a cam install on more then one account.. always miss one for some reason. check this. also not trying to alarm you but are you absolutely certain those dots were lined up perfect on the timing set? i know its sometimes hard to see very clearly from the strange angles you get to look at them, but it is hard to notice one tooth off... this could cause some very odd symtoms like glowing headers or severe poor run quality as well as notching some of your pistons. if you find a loose rocker, and eveyrhting runs smoothly then your probably alright. just rethink your install you'll sort it out.. PS if a rocker starts clacking that bad you will get the SES light.. i know this no fun! good luck and keep us posted!
Chris
Yes, i'm 100% positive the timing marks were lined up. If that's off, can destroy the engine in a heart beat... so i was extremely careful on that. I believe after getting some replies here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=735863 , that it is just a lifter that hasn't pumped up. I have only run the engine for a max of 60 sec at a time. It's not a LOUD tapping.. it's just a quiet one. I remember what loud tapping of something bad sounds like from a buddies WAAAAY modded LT4.
btw, moved that to a seperate thread because no one appears to be reading here anymore, lol
3) Computer is giving DTC of "High Map" ... Map pressure is around 75 at idle.
I don't see many sensors go bad so I don't remember off the top of my head the relationship between signal voltage and pressure. If it is direct (high pressure=higher voltage) then it might make sense. with the increased overlap of the hotcam, vacuum is less(pressure higher) than what the PCM expects to see at idle (low rpm, low tps voltage).