haha, posted a few minutes too late before you got to that :)

 

Some food for thought... found some pics of my intake. Looks to me like it should line up with the intake ports on the head.... Guess I'll find out if I ever have to take the intake off again.








[Modified by GlockLT4, 11:55 PM 1/21/2004]

 

I'll try and remember to post a pic tonight of my intake while I was porting it to match the "77" gasket. I had to remove ~1/4" of material from the top of the intake manifold port. The original port matched the factory gasket quite well. As a result, it blocked the top of the cylinder head intake port.

 

Arg.. WHY .. WWHHHYYY would they do that??? :confused: :nonod:

 

Hey Glock,Ive been following but havent posted yet...Keep up the good work and hope it all works out for the best.
:)

Btw,Ive done quite a few intake gasket jobs on various GM cars over the years and I have to say most of the castings are hit and miss.Thats probably why some cars run a little stronger than others.Its unbelieveable how much material blocks air flow through the intake and head port systems as a result of the castings whether cast iron or alloy pieces.
Its pretty sad to see sometimes.
:crazy:

 

I hear ya!

 

Just thought i'd update again that the waterpump seal leak is completely dry and so is the crank seal :yesnod: :D .

 

Crap .. spoke too soon.... noticed some drips on the garage floor today. They dripped off of the beam under the engine and it looks like they are coming from the crank seal. HHmmm......

 

Here is the pic of the mild intake porting I did a couple years ago. I matched the top portion to the "77" GMPP LT4 intake gasket. It's kind of hard to see, but if you look at the injector hole in each port you can kind of tell. I've seen a bunch of LT4 intakes, and they're all this way. As you can see from the pic just switching to the GMPP gasket really doesn't do anything. Even porting the intake doesn't do much as the ports on the heads need work as well.

 

The seal can wear a groove into the hub.
If so the hub needs to be replaced :(
If your going to do that, go ahead and get a keyed hub.

 

yeah, i figure that's what has happened. There was coloration in the form of two brass like rings around the outside of the hub where the seal lined up.

 

Curtis, I used a NAPA repair sleeve on my balancer hub to stop my leak.


[Modified by STL94LT1, 9:42 AM 1/29/2004]

 

Interesting... and how much of the car did you have to take apart to do this? :confused:

 

I changed the timing cover seals at the time I installed the repair sleeve. And, unfortunately I had to pull the timing cover to install the seals.

If you just want to install the sleeve, you would just have to pull the balancer hub. I haven't heard of anyone installing a sleeve without new seals. But, it is very possible that it would stop the leak.

 

:iagree:

 

I recently replaced all the timing cover related seals on my LT4. Initially I started out with plans of leaving the timing cover on and just popping the 3 seals out and popping replacements in. Unfortunately the crank seal just wouldn't come out with the cover still on the car (broke my fine Harbor Freight seal puller).

Anyway, I got the Felpro kit from Autozone (~$15) which contains the three seals (waterpump driveshaft, opti, crank), timing cover gasket, and water pump gaskets. Then I got a Spedi-Sleeve brand, made by Chicago Rawhide, balancer hub sleeve from Napa (~$30). I think the Spedi-Sleeve brand is a little higher quality stainless piece. The sleeve came with a tool to drive it onto the hub. Seems to work real well.

The last pictures I saw of your waterpump drive shaft seal looked fine. The orange portion should be protruding out toward the front of the car, and the black portion should be invisibly tucked inside the cover. Only question is if the black portion is wrinkled up inside there or making a good 360* seal. Only time will tell. Luckily I had about 4 of these laying around to "learn" the installation technique with. Definitely easier to do once the cover is mounted on the block. I used the Coke can technique to apply this seal. Just cut a piece of aluminum out of the can and roll it into the shape of a funnel with the small end just big enough to fit over the portion of the driveshaft that the seal rides on. Lube it up real good, slide the seal on the funnel, put the funnel end over the shaft, and carefully slide the seal down the funnel onto the shaft.

Another potential source of oil leak is now the oil pan seal. Removing the timing cover certainly disturbs this seal in the leak prone junction of oil pan and timing cover. Replacing the oil pan and filter adapter seals are next on my list. It is my understanding that Felpro makes a nice thick oil pan seal that takes care of the junctions that usually get gobbed full of sealant.

Now stand back and find the next thing to work on! :lol:

 

zrated I replaced the oil pan gasket with this... I used plenty of rtv on the front and rear of it, so hopefully it's not leaking there. Actually, it would be a LOT easier to fix a leak there than it would on the crank hub seal.

Thanks for the recommended parts!

 

:lurk: Watching with interest, will soon be going down this path! Good luck. :thumbs:

 

So glad some one else understands this other than me. People think if you install the LT4 updated gasket it will give you more HP. The updated gasket still does not match the intake and the intakes for that matter. The very little it does uncover will give you sqwat! :lol:
I've personally done this jbo myself so I did ahve a chance to look it over first hand.
Nothing wrong with using the updated gasket in place of the old though.
:lol: :thumbs:


[Modified by ConeKLR, 11:31 AM 1/30/2004]