This spring, I'll finally be pulling that POS "rebuilt" engine from my '86 vette

I'll be replacing it with the '88 350 out of my Camaro (which is getting something very wicked) :D

just a few questions..

How hard of a swap is this, overall? I'm pretty proficient at setting up TPI, but its the mechanical crap im worried about (how the hell do i reach this crap??)

Also, will the brackets that connect the block to the motor mounts on the '88 engine work in my '86 vette?

I'll be using the '86 heads, ZZ4 Cam, and the '86 intake - do i need to use permatex on the intake gaskets? I was told its not used on '88 blocks

 

Pulling the engine can be an art form itself just go slow and use real stands (vs bricks).

The true question is how are you going to get the tranny separated fromt the block? Will you leave the vette in place, on jack stands, with the tranny supported or will you pull both out?

I've done both ways and I can tell you that the effort to pull the dampner off prior to pulling the motor. Along with the motor mount, this can give you that extra .25 to 1.5" of clearance.

Reply back so I know what your resources are...

AND REPLACE THOSE CAST IRON HEADS WITH SOME AL AND GET A REAL CAM!!!!!

love
T W

 

Have fun.... there's alot of notes here on engine/trans removal... good luck :thumbs:

 

I dont really see any reason to pull the tranny also as long as it's not too hard to get to the bellhousing bolts. It's an auto.

How hard is it to get to the engine/transmission bellhousing bolts?

Other than that .. shouldnt be too bad

 

There are two trans to block bolts at the very top that are difficult to get to. The hardest of the two is the one on the passenger side. The firewall protrudes at just that particular point where the bolt goes in, making getting a wrench on it sort of frustrating. I coupled a few long extensions together and used a swivel 9/16th socket to reach it from below. If you hands are small, you may be about to get to ut from up top.

Just pull the crank PULLEY, you can leave the damper on. The rest of it is pretty easy to do; takes only a few of hours. To pull the damper, you'll need to disconnect the power steering fluid line that will interfere with the puller.

If the radiator is still in the car, put a piece of plywood in front of it to protect it from accidental bumping by the engine.

I never had to remove the motor mounts, only the bolts/nuts.

For me it was easiest to drop the entire exhaust, since on the 86 there are only a few hangars involved. Makes bolting it back in place a lot easier insuring no leaks.

Be sure to clean any oil/etc from the ground connection location on the lower, driver's side of the block so that you won't have hard to track down electrical problems later on.

The engine can be aligned with the trans by one person, but it's easier if you have someone to help. One person below the car working the floor jack and one up top. Otherwise, you'll be going from top to bottom and back again to jockey it into position.

Hope this helps.

Jake


[Modified by JAKE, 12:06 AM 1/24/2004]

 

I always pull the radiator, it gives alot of room to work and it's cheaper then a new rad.
crank pully and all front accessories come off, since you're swapping them anyway.
Don't pull the tranny.
It's really easy to pull a motor.
good luck

 

Thanks guys!

I just picked up the new motor today.. real nice solid lifter 350 with ported iron L98 heads.. flows about 230 cfm so it should be fun

So the camaro motor will come out, and go in the 'Vette.. I'll be swapping in a ZZ4 cam, and some ported 882 heads so the motor has a bit more oomph but still looks 100% stock (aside from headers) lol

is there anything else i should know? :cheers: