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I'm considering installing some Hooker 2149 headers & 16720 front Y on my '86 with 4+3. I'm planning on coated headers for sure, but is it nececssary to have the Y coated also? I understand the riser for the EGR tube is taller than on my stock manifold which will allow better access to the EGR tube clamp. Is this correct? What's the part # for the new EGR tube I would need to buy? I read in a Tech Tip that the O2 bung is located on the #7 tube which eliminates the need for a heated sensor but the sensor will only be measuring the gases from on cylinder, which can be inacurate. Is this a concern?
Coating is good, I just recently sent my TPIS headers and Y-pipe to Jet hot to coat. I figured the coating on the Y will help to keep the heat down under car.
It is not necessary to coat anything. But that far down stream in the exhaust system, "Y" pipe coating is less critical. The 2149 Hookers, come coated. However, Hooker only coats the outside. If you want them coated, inside AND out, contact HPC. They did mine, and they are quite close to you. I believe they're in Draper. Good luck, and...
While not necessary I would and did coat my y pipe. In fact I had the rear y pipe coated as well, both inside and outside. For the cost of the coating and the additional protection it provides, there no reason not to.
HPC has a great warranty and if it extents the life of these pieces half as much as they claim its still cheaper than replacing the pipes. If you want when I get home I'll dig up the prices.
I did also move the 02 and installed a heated one. I don't like the fact that it only sampled the single cylinder.
You do realize that the 2149 ONLY come coated already, right? So if you want to coat them again thats up to you.
Do you have the iron or aluminum heads?
The EGR tueb on the hookers will come NOT drilled out. You will need an EGR tube and gaskets from a 88-91 vette to make the EGR work properly. 86 and 87 have a clamp on the exhaust manifold end end and 2 bolts on the intake side. 88-91 have 2 bolts on each side.
I have aluminum heads. I assume you mean the EGR tube flange on the headers will require drilling & tapping for the 88-91 EGR tube lower end bolts. Is this correct?
I assume you mean the EGR tube flange on the headers will require drilling & tapping for the 88-91 EGR tube lower end bolts. Is this correct?
The EGR tube/flange on the headers is already drilled/tapped for the 2 bolts you'll need bolts on the header. It is where the EGR tower thingy meets the actual primary tube that needs to be drilled. It is just welded onto the primary and the passage is not drilled open. It is like it is just "there" to pass visual inspection and if you want to make it functional you can.
If you want to enable EGR You need a really friggen strong and long drill bit to get through the coating and material.
I've called for pricing - $220 for the headers & $60 for the Y, inside & out.
I just had the insides of the headers done for $80 since the outsides are already coated. Like I said though, the stuff came out looking so good I had both Y's done by them. It was almost a shame to put them under the car :D
FYI, I got a new EGR tube, switch and two gaskets for my '88 from my local Chevy dealer for $90; the tube comes with the integreal aluminized inuslating sleeve.
You will also need two additional Torx bolts for the lower flange.