Well, I was enjoying the Winter NCRS meet in Orlando. Fine weather, fine women and fine vetts :yesnod: I had the feeling it was gonna cost me. Came up to the DeWitts both and they had a drop in double row radiator for my 90. Figured I had waited long enough and wanted to do something before it turned into inferno down here - summer is not that far off :reddevil

So I got me new radiator hoses and a new Edlebrock Victor Hi flow pump on it's way from Summit.

Any advice to give me in doing the radiator R & R? I heard that there are some real PITA bolts to get it out. Any advice would be most appreciated.

 

Yes there are, 6 (I think 7mm), 3 on each side, down underneath the frame facing inward on the shroud. If they'd been installed facing outward from the factory, you could get at them from under the front, but nooooooo.

I'd reverse them when you put them back in.....

 

:iagree: EASY to reverse and make totally accessible from the rad intake with a 6-7mm nut driver. Turns a knuckle busting magnetic fishing expedition into a no brainer! :cheers:

 

Well said.........

:cheers:

 

Be sure they line up with the holes on the other piece when you swap them over. I had to file the edges of duct to get the lower two sheet metal nuts to line up with the holes.

But it was well worth it. On my '96 I had to remove the radiator overflow tank on the right , the air pump on the left and move the horn on the left a bit to get access to the screws. A real pita just to pull the radiator out. Next time I won't have to touch thoose parts

 

You might consider sealing around your AC condensor and the radiator.

This is based on a '96, so YMMV a bit.

There is a .25 inch to .625 gap at the top, bottom and left side of the AC Condensor. The gap on the right is bigger. That's how all the leaves, plastic bags and other crud get into the gap between the condensor and radiator and block the radiator.

I sealed around my AC condensor with 7/16 thick by 1.25 inch wide self stick, foam. rubber insulation on the left, top and bottom. I used 1 or two layers of the stuff depending on how big the gap was. The right side gap is a different problem and I will close it with a piece of garage door bottom seal. These seals will keep the big crud away from the radiator.

I did the same kind of sealing job around the radiator. The reason I sealed the radiator is that any air that goes around the radiator isn't cooling the engine coolant. The Corvette radiator plenum is a decent well designed shape, I thnk the factory engineers would have sealed it if they had the budget and choice.

All the weatherstipping foam so far is stuck directly to the radiator and AC condensor. I haven't worked out the seal on the right of the AC condensor yet, but will try and stick it to the shroud where I can use soime screws.

I'm also considering a windowscreen type screen in front of the AC condensor, but am concerned that it will cu=t airflow enough to make a difference.

If you do a window screen mesh screen in front of the condensor, then there is no real reason to seal around the condensor.




[Modified by xs650, 9:39 PM 1/24/2004]

 

Do you think that a heavier screen material with 1/4 inch mesh may achieve both strength and permit better air flow?

-JRC-

 

Yes and yes, but 1/4 inch mesh won't stop the small crud that gets stuck down in the condensor fins.

You are right to be concerned about restriction from window screen. Anyone who doubts that window screen obstructs airflow should try one of two experiments. This still won't tell you if it's a problem, but it's educational :)

1. Hold you hand about 3 inches in front of your mouth and blow on it. then do the same with a window screen between you mouth and your hand.

2. Have someone drive you down the road at 60 mph and hold a small window screen out the window so it gets the full blast of air, observe how much it feels like a parachute. :cry

All that said, the air velocity going into our radiators is less than 1/4 the cars speed, so pressure drop may not be an issue. I don't know the answer yet.

If I put a screen of any kind in front of my condensor, I will stretch it from the bottom of the "grille" opening to the top of the radiator, about 18 inches tall. That will be 4 times the area of one that only covers the "grill" opening so it will only have about 1/8 or less of the pressure drop.

Here is some interesting test work on pressure drop through different screens http://ateam.lbl.gov/hightech/fumeho...rts/Screen.htm
The velocities are too low to extrapolate to our speeds, since the graph stops short of 200 feet/minute, a bit over 2 mph!

 

Thats good to know.... shed enough blood.... :cool: :thumbs:

 

I'll second Black Sheep on all counts.
1) Reverse the screws when you reassemble
2) Seal the radiator and condenser edges
3) Put a screen in the inlet hole. I used 1/8" galvanized mesh, painted flat black. If you wanted to stop all the grains of sand you would need 1/16" or so. If anyone had used this fine a mesh successfully, please let us know.

I did my 95 the same way as he describes (easy to to when the radiator is out), and the leaf crud buildup is history. You can use the opening at the upper right corner of the radiator shroud as an inspection port if you want to check on cleanliness.

Keep Cool.