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Could it be the slave cylinder? I have been trying to bleed this thing forever..... I just can't evacuate the air. I replaced the clutch master cylinder because it had an obvious leak. Now I can't bleed the system. I remember doing a search a week or so ago and know that some of you guys had a similar problem bleeding. How did you finally do it? I have not tried a "do-it-yourself" kit yet. The slave looks to be in good shape but something is not allowing me to evacuate all of the air....I still have no pedal resistance.....HELP! Is there any other advise you can offer a brother?
Depending on how soon you want to drive. You could leave the brace on and take the cover off overnite all the air should work its way out. There is a kit also for a 1 man bleeding you can get at AutoZone. :cheers:
Assuming that your slave is good, try this simple approach. Take the lid and rubber liner thingy off your clutch master and slowly depress the clutch pedal. If your slave cyl is good, my guess is that you're going to see some bubbles popping up to the master. (In your case, doing by yourself, you should have a firmer pedal.) I have changed over to the "newer" slave that's got a bleeder on it, but Gordon Killebrew taught me that trick. (for $15) You've got it for free. Let us know if it helps.
I'd have to recommend getting a vacuum bleeder.
That was the only way I ever got mine working right and I had 2 people.
Having one person up top to pump it up didn't get it good enough.
I've not tried a bleeder kit.....but man, I can't get the air out of this system....anything else I could try.....is it possibly the slave cylinder?
HELP!!! :banghead: :banghead:
Try this, remove the slave cyl. from the bell housing. Only slightly loosen the fluid line so you can rotate the cyl a little. Point the piston to the ground (line fitting up, slightly tighten the fitting so air can't get in & fluid out, doesn't take much), and push the rod against a block of wood on the ground. This will force air up & out up to the master, hold for as long as you can for the air to rise on its own. After about 10 strokes you should no longer hear the bubbles coming out at the master. Watch the fluid lever, not too full or you will splash fluid around when the air bubbles come out at the master but of course don't let it get too low either. When done carefully loosen line again so you can reinstall the slave, tighten everything back up again & check the pedal.
This worked on mine & the system was almost dry when I started after having sat disconnected for 8 months... :smash: and good luck!!
Trog....I'm going to give it a try, otherwise I'm going to remove the slave and perhaps bench bleed it. :confused: I'm sure the air is just trapped in the slave because fluid runs smoothly from the master right through the bleeder. I've probably flushed the system completely twice by now.....at least the fluid will be clean. ;)
Did you have any success using the simple method that GK recommended? It worked amazingly well for me when a LOT of air got into my slave when I went to the aluminum flywheel and ceramic clutch.
I was able to bleed the entire clutch system on my ZF setup after a flush by simply taking the slave off of the bellhousing, and aiming it so that the bleed screw is at the very top of the assembly. It bled quickly, and have a rock solid clutch pedal.
Re: Bleeding clutch...update...could it be.... (Irish Mike)
:iagree: What H Rocks - I pull the master cover like H Rocks and let it work its way upwards. Or, you can turn the car upside down to use the factory bleed screw :D
Re: Bleeding clutch...update...could it be.... (NavyVet)
h rocks.....I'll try your idea first, it seems simple.....and I like simple. Much easier to drop the car off the ramps again than I'm sure it will be to remove the slave. If other people vouch that it works for them I'll give it a try. Will this method actually clear all of the air? Thanks for the tips.
Thank you h rocks.....your idea worked like a charm. To think I spent several hours trying to do what your advise achieved in less than five minutes (no exageration). The clutch feels very tight and shifts smoooooth. I just wish I could road test her tonight.....but the forecast is for 10-15cm of snow.......and although I do drive the car year round, it's a little too much for my liking. Once again my friend :thumbs:
Re: Bleeding clutch...update...could it be.... (Irish Mike)
I've been through this nightmare with O'REILLY brand elcheapo unit trying to make it bleed and literally tried for 45min. to get the air out . Take it back get your 80 dollars back and go to chevy and get a 150dollar master cylinder for the clutch. and it will bleed in about 2-3 minutes.I tried 2 different units from O'REILLY and was so dissapointed that stuff is junk! This is one time you can't cheeap your way out of the repair.